Text and photos: Daxia-V5, member of the Self-Travel New Media Alliance
Some say that mountains and rivers always grow in the heart.
Wading through the river of time, you can find that dreamy place.
From the distant past, I tread along the uneven patterns of fate,
Hoping to walk out of that sealed memory.
Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, beneath Lotus Mountain and by the Seven-Colored Sea, I seek the most beautiful poetry and the most distant horizon.
That day, I closed my eyes in the incense mist of the scripture hall, and suddenly heard the sacred words you chanted.
That month, I turned all the prayer wheels, not for salvation, but just to touch your fingertips.
That year, I prostrated myself along the mountain path, not for an audience, but just to feel your warmth.
In that lifetime, I circled mountains, waters, and stupas, not for the next life, but just to meet you along the way.
Sometimes, we ponder the purpose and meaning of our journeys.
But often, when we finally reach our destination, we realize that all that thinking was meaningless.
In truth, where the heart leads, the feet will follow.
The sunlight of Muguo Valley warms me as it draws near to you.
The tranquility of Seven-Colored Sea invites you to open your arms and let the mountain breeze brush every part of you.
Azaleas bloom in Azalea Gorge,
Laughing at the fading vanity, the moonlight washed clean,
Laughing at the quietly fleeting moments, ten thousand fluttering petals,
Who is that gently trembling lily, eternal under your serene glow?
Unable to build a hut and dwell there, unable to devote myself to the Zen realm of mountains and waters,
By the water, we sense the impermanence of the world; in the mountains, we comprehend the everlasting vastness of heaven and earth.
I think, in youth, one can watch the tides, play with the waves, and choose to live by the flowing streams.
But as the years pass, there is a profound truth here—yet when I try to express it, my words fail me.
Travel Guide Section
On the horse-racing, melodic hills, a drifting cloud floats, oh,
Brightly and steadily shining down on Kangding’s charming town, oh,
With the moon curved gently—Kangding’s lovely town, oh.
Sister Li, the fairest of them all, oh,
The eldest brother of Zhangjia, enchanted by her charm,
The crescent moon gazes upon her lovely face...
Many years ago, the song "Kangding Love Song" swept across the nation, sung by everyone, and it showcased not only the beautiful romance of the small town of Kangding but also its stunning scenery. Because of this song, countless hearts began to drift toward the distant Kangding.
It must be admitted that back then, Kangding felt incredibly far for people across the country, but nowadays, it’s a place many can visit on a whim. I remember seven years ago, the bus ride from Chengdu to Kangding took about eight hours, but this time, it only took four hours. By the second half of this year, when the highway between Kangding and Chengdu is fully connected, the journey will be even shorter.
Mugecuo is located in the middle section of the Gongga Mountain Range, about 17 kilometers from downtown Kangding. The scenic area consists of six attractions: Azalea Gorge, Fragrant Grassland, Seven-Color Lake, Medicine Pool Boiling Spring, Mugecuo (Wildman Lake), and Red Sea Grassland. Nearby, there are also several other high-altitude lakes and hot springs. Pristine forests, grasslands, and snow-capped mountains blend seamlessly, especially on clear days when the 7,556-meter-high Gongga Snow Mountain—known as the "King of Shu Mountains"—can be seen from Mugecuo.
[Itinerary]
Day 1: Fly from your city to Chengdu, check in at Chengdu Qiyashang International Hotel.
Day 2: Fly from Chengdu to Kangding, check in at Kangding Suolomabao Grand Hotel, explore the town of Kangding, visit the Ganzi Prefecture Museum.
Day 3: Visit Mugecuo, explore Mugecuo, Baihai Grassland, Seven-Color Lake, check in at Kangding Suolomabao Grand Hotel.
Day 4: Explore Azalea Gorge, Red Stone Beach, Medicine Pool Boiling Spring, check in at Kangding Suolomabao Grand Hotel.
Day 5: Return from Kangding to Chengdu.
[How to Get to Kangding]
The straight-line distance from Chengdu to Kangding is about 200 kilometers, but due to winding mountain roads, the actual distance exceeds 200 kilometers. Fortunately, the highway from Chengdu to Luding has been completed, and the full highway route from Chengdu to Kangding will open in the second half of this year, significantly shortening the journey.
1. Driving from Chengdu to Kangding is the best option, with gradually ascending altitudes and increasingly beautiful scenery. The drive takes about four hours.
2. For individual travelers, you can take a long-distance bus from Chengdu to Kangding. Various bus stations in Chengdu offer buses to Kangding at different times, with a journey of about six hours.
3. Fly from Chengdu to Kangding. Kangding Airport is located between Kangding and Xinduqiao. From the airport to Kangding, you need to cross Zheduo Mountain, but the flight itself is less than an hour, and the drive from the airport to Kangding takes about one hour. If you book your flight in advance, a one-way ticket from Chengdu to Kangding can be kept under 200 yuan.
Let me say this three times: on the flight from Chengdu to Kangding, you can see the Gongga Snow Mountain, known as the "King of Shu Mountains," standing at 7,556 meters.
The distance from Kangding to Mugecuo Scenic Area is about 16 kilometers. You can take a taxi or hire a car in downtown Kangding, costing around 20–30 yuan per person.
Private vehicles are not allowed inside Mugecuo Scenic Area. There is a large parking lot at the entrance, and shuttle buses within the scenic area transport visitors to various attractions.
[Where to Stay in Kangding]
Kangding is a key stop on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. According to incomplete statistics, at least 20,000 people pass through Kangding daily while traveling along National Highway 318, mostly by self-driving, cycling, or hiking, making it a beautiful sight along the route. As a result, accommodations in Kangding see a peak between April and November each year, especially during the summer vacation when finding a room can be very difficult. It’s advisable to book your stay as early as possible if traveling during this period. Accommodations in Kangding mainly include guesthouses, hostels, and mid-range hotels, with prices ranging from 100 to 300 or 400 yuan depending on your budget.
There are currently no accommodations inside Mugecuo Scenic Area. However, not far from the entrance, there are many local Tibetan-run guesthouses and farm stays with beautiful mountain and water views. But be prepared for basic lodging conditions, and keep in mind it’s about 16 kilometers from downtown Kangding. If you have higher accommodation standards, it’s recommended to stay in downtown Kangding.
[Is There Plenty of Food in Kangding?]
Kangding is truly part of the Tibetan region, offering a wide variety of Tibetan-style cuisine. At the same time, as the closest Tibetan area to Chengdu, it’s a blend of Tibetan and Han cultures, and spicy Sichuan dishes are everywhere in Kangding—perfect for those who love spicy food and beef. Kangding is especially famous for its yak jerky, which is not only delicious but also makes a great souvenir.
Of course, since you’re traveling in Kangding, you might want to save Sichuan cuisine for Chengdu. In Kangding, you must try Tibetan food. What fascinated me most were the various yak dishes—yak hot pot, boiled yak, cold yak salad, and more. Just think about why the Khampa men are so strong, handsome, and fit—it’s all thanks to all that yak meat.
[How to Explore Mugecuo Scenic Area?]
Compared to the landscapes of the eastern coastal areas, Mugecuo Scenic Area can be described as truly majestic. Spending just one day here feels rushed—I’d personally recommend two days, especially for photography enthusiasts. Mugecuo, Baihai Grassland, Red Sea Grassland, Seven-Color Lake, and Gongga Snow Mountain all require perfect weather and lighting to capture stunning photos. But you know how unpredictable the plateau weather is—sunny one moment, cloudy, rainy, or snowy the next. Spending an extra day allows you to enjoy it more thoroughly.
[Essential Tips for Traveling in Tibetan Areas]
1. The altitude of Mugecuo is close to 4,000 meters, so don’t underestimate altitude sickness. Bring preventive medication and avoid strenuous exercise or loud talking.
2. Sun protection, sun protection, sun protection—higher SPF is always better.
3. The sun on the plateau is very intense, but the temperature varies greatly between sunny and cloudy days, as well as between day and night. Even in summer, you should bring very warm clothing.
4. When traveling to the Tibetan region, it is essential to respect local customs and protect the environment by not littering.
5. Upon first arriving in the Tibetan region, it is not recommended to take a shower on the same day, especially a cold shower.
First encounter with Kangding, love at first sight
The first time I experienced a delay of four hours, which meant arriving in Chengdu at dawn. I slept less than three hours at the hotel before rushing to catch the flight from Chengdu to Kangding. I fell fast asleep on the plane and was only awakened by a friend who said, “Look outside, look—Mount Gongga…”
For someone who loves photography, a beautiful landscape truly has the magical effect of refreshing the mind. The moment I heard “Mount Gongga,” I felt instantly invigorated. Without even bothering to wipe the drool from my mouth, my first reaction was to open the window shade, pull out my camera from my backpack, remove the lens cap, and start snapping photos out the window.
Mount Gongga is the main peak of the Daxue Mountain range, surrounded by 45 peaks over 6,000 meters in elevation. Its main peak stands at 7,556 meters, towering above the surrounding summits and rising 6,000 meters above the Dadu River to its east. Known as the “King of Shu Mountains,” it is the highest peak in Sichuan Province. Viewed from above the clouds, Mount Gongga feels like something out of the movie *The Legend of the Swordsman of the Mountains of Shu*, as if you're in a fairyland.
The whole journey had been through midsummer, but landing at Kangding Airport was somewhat unexpected—I felt like the little match girl shivering in the cold wind. It then struck me that Kangding is already on the high-altitude Tibetan plateau, with the airport sitting at an elevation of 4,280 meters. It’s said to be the third highest airport in the world, after Sichuan’s Daocheng Yading Airport at 4,411 meters and Tibet’s Qamdo Bangda Airport at 4,334 meters.
Getting from Kangding Airport to downtown Kangding requires crossing the Zheduo Mountain, with a drive of about one hour. Zheduo Mountain is part of the Daxue Mountain range, and “Zheduo” means “bend” in Tibetan. The mountain’s winding roads twist and turn endlessly, like the character "duo" (meaning "many"), with one bend after another.No wonder locals say, “The terrifying Erlang Mountain, the deadly Zheduo Mountain.”
But Zheduo Mountain doesn’t even hint at how tough the Sichuan-Tibet Highway can be. The mountain pass here sits at 4,298 meters, with extremely narrow roads, frequent landslides, and constant snow and ice in winter. Today, the renovated Sichuan-Tibet Highway is no longer as perilous as before—the road is smooth and wide—but it remains a formidable barrier along the route. Crossing Zheduo Mountain brings you into the true Khampa Tibetan area. However, if you experience severe altitude sickness while crossing Zheduo Mountain, you must turn back to Chengdu without hesitation.
Kangding is a city surrounded by snow-capped mountains. On clear days, snow-capped peaks can be seen from any corner of the city, giving off an incredibly sacred vibe. Upon first arriving in this small city, considering the risk of altitude sickness, I didn’t head straight to Mugecuo Lake but instead wandered around town and visited the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Museum.
The Ganzi Prefecture Museum is built against a mountain, and its main structure is very imposing. From its elevated position, you can overlook the entire Kangding area, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, resembling an otherworldly paradise.
The Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Museum was established on October 15, 1987, and is the only museum in the prefecture. The exhibits are mainly divided into four categories: unearthed relics, ethnic cultural artifacts, religious and sacrificial objects, and revolutionary relics. These include bronze ware, porcelain, textiles, gold and silverware, pottery, thangkas, and more. In addition to common painted and printed thangkas, there are also embroidered and brocade thangkas, depicting themes such as Buddha images, folk life and customs, and Tibetan medicine.
Lucheng Town is the main urban area of Kangding City in the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, so Kangding is often referred to as Lucheng. It is the birthplace of the *Kangding Love Song*. The blending of multiple ethnicities has created a multicultural Lucheng culture. The ancient Tea Horse Road has fostered the guozhuang dance culture of Lucheng. The area is famous for the Kangding “April 8th” International Mountain Worship Festival and the unique Muya Tibetan Opera. Additionally, Lucheng is home to all three major world religions and various sects of Tibetan Buddhism.
Museum TIPS:
1. Free admission hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00–17:00 (last entry at 16:00), closed on Mondays (except national holidays)
2. Please present a valid ID to receive a visitor’s ticket before entering.
3. Please store your personal belongings before visiting; keep valuables with you.
4. Minors and those with mobility issues must be accompanied by someone. Intoxicated individuals, those improperly dressed, and individuals with mental disorders are not allowed entry.
5. Dangerous items and pets are strictly prohibited.
6. Do not touch cultural relics or exhibits. If public facilities or relics are damaged, compensation or liability will apply.
7. Please do not make noise, run, or climb in the exhibition halls.
8. No smoking, spitting, or littering.
9. Photography is not allowed in the exhibition halls. Please turn off flash when taking photos.
The sunlight of Mugecuo, close to you, warms me up!
The final stop of the Mugecuo scenic shuttle bus is Mugecuo (Lake). The drive from the scenic area entrance to Mugecuo (Lake) takes about 40 minutes, winding uphill from an elevation of 2,200 meters to 3,900 meters. The temperature drops from summer-like conditions to winter-like ones, so you must be prepared.
Mugecuo is surrounded by mountains, forests, and grasslands, with dozens of small lakes such as Honghai, Heihai, and Baihai encircling it like stars around the moon. The azure lake water sparkles under the strong plateau sunlight, creating a refreshing and delightful scene.
The mountain peak to the left of Mugecuo’s outlet is called Rhinoceros Peak. On a night with a bright moon and sparse stars, the moonlight pours over the peak, and the upward-facing rhinoceros horn glows with a silvery sheen. To the right of Mugecuo’s outlet, there is a scenic view called “Crouching Tiger Watching the Moon,” which truly resembles a tiger lying in wait, staring intently at Rhinoceros Peak. Mugecuo offers different scenes throughout the day, with changing skies morning and night. In the early morning, mist shrouds the lake surface, with silver-dragon-like clouds swirling on the water, creating the moving spectacle of “twin mists descending into the sea.” When the morning sun shines on the lake, the sparkling reflections are dazzling and ever-changing. In the afternoon, with a gentle breeze, the lake surface shows “waves without wind, churning like thousands of piles of snow.” Standing on the lakeside beach and gazing into the misty distance feels like arriving at the ends of the earth. At sunset, the golden glow spreads across the lake, blending water and sky into one. The mountains fall silent, and the sea becomes tranquil.
Taking a boat ride on the lake is the best way to experience the scenery of Mugecuo. Sitting in the cabin and gazing at the vast, shimmering waters gives you the feeling of being in a paradise, immersed in this unadorned, pristine beauty. You may feel an urge to sing out loud but hesitate, not wanting to disturb the harmonious atmosphere.
The golden beach on the left side of Mugecuo is known as Love Beach and is one of its highlights. The sand is fine and soft, naturally golden, which is rare for areas around lakes on the western Sichuan plateau.
Take a cruise boat to the opposite bank of Muguo Valley. On clear days, you can see Mount Gongga, known as the "King of Shu Mountains." Mount Gongga holds a revered status in the hearts of Tibetans and is also regarded as incredibly sacred and awe-inspiring by visitors.
Compared to lakes such as Namtso, Manasarovar, Pangong Tso, and Qinghai Lake, Muguo Valley is much smaller in surface area. Therefore, when viewed from above, it resembles a dazzling jewel on the snowy plateau.
MUGUO VALLEY TIPS:
1. In high-altitude areas, sun protection is absolutely essential.
2. Round-trip boat tickets are sold at Muguo Valley; single tickets are not available.
3. The one-way boat ride takes about 15 minutes.
4. Muguo Valley sits at an altitude of 3,900 meters. For those new to high altitudes, it's important to avoid strenuous activity.
On the horse-trotting, flower-strewn mountain, a flower-trotting cloud drifts by, oh my~
About 20 minutes up the mountain path from Muguo Valley lies Baihai Grassland. At nearly 4,000 meters above sea level, this 20-minute hike can be quite tiring. However, local Tibetans offer horseback riding services, and if time permits, you can ride a horse up to the mountain pass. It’s said that Mount Gongga can be seen from there. During spring and early summer, many local Tibetans come here to dig for caterpillar fungus.
Just thinking of that song, “Kangding Love Song” — “On the horse-trotting, flower-strewn mountain, a flower-trotting cloud drifts by, oh my, Brightly shines upon Kangding town, oh my, The moon is curved, over Kangding town, oh my…” — makes you want to gallop across Baihai Grassland. “Let’s live carefree together in this dusty world, ride horses freely and share the joy of life, sing with wine in hand to express our happiness, passionately seize our youthful years…”
The scenery at Baihai Grassland is absolutely stunning, and many visitors choose to have picnics on the grass. Here's some advice for those planning a trip to Muguo Valley:
The Muguo Valley scenic area is huge, and even spending a full day here might not be enough to see everything. Considering your itinerary, it’s recommended to bring your own lunch and drinks. With the sun shining brightly, having a picnic on Baihai Grassland or by Muguo Valley Lake is a truly poetic experience.
The local Tibetan yogurt is so delicious it’ll make you cry. There are two local farmhouses at Baihai Grassland offering simple meals, including pickled vegetables, butter tea, milk tea, grilled meat skewers, instant noodles, and more. If you didn’t bring your own lunch, consider buying something here.
The sun has seven colors of light, and the Kangding Love Song has Seven-Colored Sea.
The crescent-shaped Seven-Colored Sea is like a colorful mirror inlaid between forests and meadows. Birds sing and dance among the trees, the lakeside meadow is serene and elegant, water plants float gently on the lake, and the river loach swims leisurely among the pebbles beneath the surface. Boating through the mist, you’ll be surrounded by the shimmering beauty of lake and mountain.
By the Seven-Colored Sea, you might encounter a group of local Tibetan women singing call-and-response songs. Their clear and resonant voices transport you to a near-spiritual realm. Snow mountains, alpine lakes, fluttering prayer flags, and echoing Tibetan songs make for an overwhelmingly beautiful scene you won’t want to leave.
Around the Seven-Colored Sea, you'll find white stupas from the Tibetan region and countless mani stone piles. To Tibetans, this is an incredibly sacred place and a site of pilgrimage. The surrounding mountains of the Seven-Colored Sea are all over 5,000 meters in elevation, many of which are covered in snow year-round. Therefore, no matter what season you visit Muguo Valley, you’ll be able to enjoy views of the snow-capped peaks.
To the left of the Seven-Colored Sea, under the blue sky, snow-capped peaks stand tall, glistening with silver light—holy and mysterious. Their shape resembles the lotus pedestal under the feet of Guanyin Bodhisattva, hence the name Lotus Mountain. According to local Tibetans, Lotus Mountain is only visible about one-third of the year. It must be said, we were incredibly lucky to visit Muguo Valley this time—the snow-capped Lotus Mountain reflecting off the beautiful Seven-Colored Sea looks like a breathtaking highland painting.
It must be said, the scenery here closely resembles the natural landscapes of Northern Europe and Canada. Many people lie on the grass by the Seven-Colored Sea, enjoying the sunshine, the views, and a carefree life—it’s truly enviable.
The northeast corner of Love Lake is the enchanting “Fragrant Grassland,” covering about 500 square meters. Like a vibrant carpet, it’s spread out among the mountains and dense forests. The grass is lush, wildflowers cover the ground, and their sweet fragrance intoxicates visitors who have traveled from afar. Fragrant Grassland is also a natural playground for horseback riding and outdoor fun.
Evening is the best time to appreciate the Seven-Colored Sea. At this time, dappled light shines on the sea and the surrounding snow mountains, forests, and grasslands. Standing amid these shifting lights and shadows, visitors can admire the beauty while feeling the warmth of the plateau—a deeply comforting sensation. Of course, don’t forget to protect yourself from the sun.
Stroll through the Ten-Mile Gallery of Azalea Gorge
Azalea Gorge connects Seven-Colored Sea to the east and Wildman Sea to the west. The gorge stretches 6 kilometers in length. Within the valley, streams rush at times and flow gently at others, splashing like pearls and jade. The banks are lined with lush woods, especially notable for their primeval azalea forests.
The azaleas of Azalea Gorge are varied in form and brilliant in color. Some trees tower several meters high, like celestial maidens about to take flight; some are no taller than a foot, resembling unfurled skirts; some grow atop cliffs, swaying in the wind and seemingly greeting visitors; others stand upright in the valley, shyly bowing to guests; some blooms are as large as bowls, while others are small as buttons. Red, yellow, blue, white, purple—like coral, like pearls—they cluster together in glorious profusion, turning the mountains into a world of flowers and the gorge into an ocean of blooms.
When Tibetans visit Azalea Gorge, they often build mani stone piles by the river. Tibetans hold a special reverence for Buddhist culture, and people of all ages regard engaging in Buddhist practices as noble. Across the vast grasslands and remote mountain valleys, people work diligently, carving sutras, various Buddha images, and auspicious patterns onto ordinary stones with knives and brushes, then decorating them with color to turn mundane rocks into mani stones. Devout Tibetan believers believe that if the six-syllable mantra they chant day and night is patiently carved into stone, these stones will acquire supernatural spiritual power, bringing them good fortune. As people tirelessly continue this practice, various sizes of mani stones accumulate, forming mani stone piles and walls.
Azalea Gorge is ideal for photography, especially capturing slow shutter shots of flowing water. Using slow or ultra-slow shutter speeds to blur the water gives a sense of silky softness and ethereal movement. Many photographers prefer to shoot flowing water in bright sunlight, but to create dreamy, fantastical water-themed works, you need patience and use diffused light. Be bold—use slow shutter speeds, slower, and even slower… the slower, the more unexpectedly stunning the results.
It’s said that Azalea Gorge gathers nearly 70 varieties of azaleas, which bloom successively from mid-April to July, with a flowering period lasting up to four months.
AZALEA GORGE TIPS:
1. Walking the entire Azalea Gorge takes about 2 hours.
2. The boardwalk in Azalea Gorge is relatively flat and easy, even manageable in high heels.
3. There are multiple shuttle bus stops along the Azalea Gorge. If you get tired from walking, you can choose to take a shuttle bus to the next scenic spot.
Why is Red Stone Beach red?
At Muguo Valley, there is a truly magical sight — the Red Stone Beach. The stones here are entirely red, which reminds me of the Flame Bay I once saw in Tasmania, Australia. The stones at Flame Bay are also completely red, and they look spectacular from afar.
The magic of Red Stone Beach doesn’t come from the stones themselves being red due to some element, but rather from the red moss that grows on their surfaces. This type of moss is said to grow only at altitudes above 3,000 meters.
Besides Red Stone Beach, there are also many scattered red stones along the way in the Azalea Gorge, standing out vividly against the backdrop of green mountains and clear waters.
Singing love songs while enjoying a hot spring.
"Medicine Pool Boiling Spring" is the second most magical attraction in the Muguo Valley scenic area. It is 3 kilometers away from "Seven-Colored Sea," at an altitude of 3,500 meters. Here, you can leave behind the fatigue of your journey and enjoy the comfort of highland hot springs.
There are over 20 high-temperature hot springs alone, with the highest water temperature reaching up to 90°C. The heat source comes from a geothermal reservoir 200 meters deep in the Earth's crust. The water contains a variety of trace elements beneficial to the human body, making it a high-quality natural concentrated mineral spring rich in lithium, strontium, metasilicic acid, and carbonic acid. The Buddha Spring has no unusual taste and is great for making tea that clears the mind and brightens the eyes.
Don’t miss the tender and smooth hot spring eggs — they’re a must-try.
Next to the Medicine Pool Boiling Spring lies the beautifully scenic Ema Lake. With blue skies, white clouds, and snow-capped mountains above, and forests and green waters below, it offers an incredibly refreshing experience.