A Hidden Taipei Noodle Shop Known to Insiders: Honest Flat Noodles with the Aroma of Lard

Text & Photos /Xiaohu’s Food Dreams

As most people who know me or have heard why I started blogging probably know, Shu Guozhi’s “Taipei Delicacies” has been incredibly influential on my blogging life—so much so that I might not be living the life I do now without it. The shop that convinced me to buy the book and start following Shu Guozhi’s food trail was No. 34: [Wanhua] Yanping South Road, Zhongyuan Fuzhou Dry Noodles. Alongside another spot I’m sharing today, “Hualin,” known for its honest flat noodles and located near Little South Gate, these two are practically the kings of dry noodles in the area.

Looking back, my first post in the “Following Shu Guozhi for Street Eats” series—[Following Shu Guozhi for Street Eats #6] [Longshan Temple Station] Old Wanhua Theater’s Pork Intestine Noodles—was published in March 2011. Over these five and a half years, some friends who know Shu Guozhi tried to arrange a meeting between us, but I always felt it should happen naturally, when the time was right. Then, last month, thanks to a secret arrangement by a good friend in Keelung, I finally met Shu Guozhi, who has had such a big impact on my life. The next day, while reading the Taiwan High-Speed Rail monthly magazine, I came across this old noodle shop in the Ximending area that I’d long known about but never visited. I rushed there as soon as I got off the high-speed rail.

Hualin Dry Noodles is located about a 5–6 minute walk from the Ximen MRT station exit, close to Little South Gate. Though it’s also in Ximending, far fewer pedestrians pass through here.

Even just past lunchtime, walking into the alley, I found quite a few office workers and students still dining here. Among them, this shop was the busiest, packed both inside and out, mostly with students.

Further down the alley is this tiny noodle shop with such a small, almost invisible sign—it’s very low-key. But during meal times, it’s always full, with people waiting in line. When I arrived around 1:30 PM, I still had to wait about ten minutes for a seat. Also worth noting: sharing tables is a must here. If you don’t like sitting with strangers, this might not be the place for you.

They only serve two types of noodles here: zhajiang (fried sauce) and dry noodles (I assume the plain soup noodles are called yangchun). There are also four very ordinary soups, but absolutely no side dishes—none at all. So, most customers here get one bowl of noodles and one soup, then leave quickly after eating. This is actually quite similar to the kind of no-frills, good-food shops that Shu Guozhi often mentions (laughs).

I remember the first time I had a bowl of these plain-looking noodles—completely white, with no sauce at all—at “Zhongyuan Dry Noodles,” I was a bit surprised. But actually, it’s not what you’d call a “plain” noodle (with nothing added). There’s a bit of lard and a touch of salt—or perhaps salted brine—for flavor.

Of course, regulars and insiders know that the trick with honest dry noodles is to use the chili oil, vinegar, and other seasonings on the table to mix your own perfect flavor. BUT… Xiaohu sincerely suggests you don’t rush to add anything. First, give the noodles a good stir, mixing them halfway through the bowl, then take a bite. You’ll find that these seemingly plain noodles are full of wheat aroma, and the more you chew, the more flavor you discover. That simple lard aroma and the sweet taste released from the noodles are so pure, so delicious—no need for me to use my usual phrase “delicious beyond words.”

Then, regular customers, besides adding the chili oil—which I personally love—also go for this little bottle of essential chili sauce, which many adore. However, this chili sauce is extremely spicy for those who don’t usually eat spicy food, so remember: just a little to bring out the aroma. Also, just a touch of chili oil and vinegar is enough to add layers of flavor, letting the star—the noodles lightly coated with lard—shine. One final note: the noodles here are top-notch. The thin, straight noodles are cooked to the perfect firmness, hitting my taste buds just right.

Let’s talk about the wonton soup in two parts. The soup itself is pretty ordinary, but it has a subtle sweetness from egg whites, which is quite unique. I’m guessing the usual “egg drop soup” is also made with this broth (laughs). As for the wontons, the wrappers are smooth and delicate yet still retain the sweet taste of wonton skin, and they’re not overcooked or falling apart—quite skillful. The meat filling, however, didn’t leave much of an impression on me.

Hualin Dry Noodles
No. 15, Lane 91, Section 1, Zhonghua Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Phone: (02)2331-6371
Business Hours: 6:30 AM – 2:00 PM

"Xiaohu’s Food Dreams
If “eating” is just about filling your stomach, then “food” would be far too boring~~~"