Kyoto’s Saihō-ji Temple Gains UNESCO World Heritage Status for Its Moss

Kyoto locals affectionately call Saihō-ji the "Moss Temple." It was originally established 1,300 years ago by the renowned monk Gyōki during the Nara period, and was later revived 650 years ago by the famous Kamakura-era monk Musō Soseki, who established its current form. Musō was also a celebrated garden designer, and Saihō-ji became his personal Zen paradise. The temple’s garden is divided into two sections: the upper part is a karesansui (dry landscape) garden, while the lower part is a pond-and-stream strolling garden. Though the site suffered extensive damage during wartime and was once abandoned, the absence of human activity allowed moss to flourish abundantly, inadvertently creating a serene and otherworldly estate. The beauty of the moss is most striking on rainy, overcast days. In those damp, shaded corners, life bursts forth vigorously. Occasionally, a ray of sunlight illuminates the deep blue-green moss, casting a soft glow. Surrounded by the lush greenery, one might almost feel as if a tidal wave of green is surging in—transforming what seems like a confined, gloomy space into something profoundly mysterious and ethereal. The romanticism of Tang Dynasty poets springs vividly to mind.

 

Saihō-ji is at its most beautiful during the rainy season. In the misty rains of June and July, the moss grows wildly. With over 120 varieties, each type is uniquely delicate and strange, yet together they create a lush, soft expanse. From the microscopic to the grand, you can take in the full richness of the season. Photographers also love this time of year—the light is hazy yet intricate, and the green tones gain depth and vibrancy. That’s why we chose to visit in late July to capture the most abundant greens of summer.

Just five minutes’ walk from Kongo Pond reveals a world unto itself. Proceeding to the Shōnan-tei tea house and the Tōhoku-tei, you can further appreciate the meandering, ethereal charm of the mountain-water landscape. The lower garden circles around the Kogane Pond, with its shores and the Asahi and Yūhi islets creating layered scenery reminiscent of the foundational elements of ink-wash painting—three shores and two bays—but with the soft moss adding a layer of deep indigo. The greenery along both banks stretches across like a canopy, reflecting the murky dark green of the pond. A vibrant koi fish makes a playful mark in the water, sending ripples of green light across the surface.

 

We specifically sought out the best vantage point for photographing the pond-and-stream strolling garden, as mentioned by photographer Kenzō Yokoyama—viewed from between Shōnan-tei and the main gate, overlooking Kogane Pond. The scene is intricately layered, profound, and lofty. But I preferred the view from the footbridge near Tōhoku-tei; amidst the wild, sprawling forest, the aged trees and serene pond tinted even the daylight with a hazy glow, as if the mossy green were leaping. Don’t forget to step into Tōhoku-tei and peer out through the round window of the tea room—the landscape garden transforms into a framed painting.

 

Besides the rainy season, another great time to visit is late November during the autumn foliage season. When falling red leaves contrast with the soft green carpet, and the pond shimmers with colorful reflections, every viewpoint—near or far—is picturesque.

 

A single morning spent here feels like a journey through a thousand years, connecting with the poetic spirit of the Tang Dynasty and sharing in a mystical, secluded dreamscape. A thousand years ago, Japan sent envoys to Tang China, and even now, a thousand years later, the people of Kyoto still live within the echoes of those ancient Chinese dreams.

 

[Info]

Saihō-ji Temple

Address: 56 Matsugatani-cho, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto, Japan

Phone: +81-(0)75-391-3631

Hours: By reservation only, with two time slots per day (morning and afternoon). You must arrive at the designated time indicated on your return pilgrimage slip to attend the sutra chanting before being allowed into the garden.

Fee: Admission requires a donation (kiganryō) of ¥3,000

Website: Kyoto Prefecture Official Website www.pref.kyoto.jp/isan/saihouji.html

Notes: Please include your desired visit date, number of people, representative’s name and address in your reservation letter, along with a self-addressed postcard. The letter must arrive at least one week before your planned visit. On the day, bring the return pilgrimage slip and your donation. Note that postage stamps issued in Taiwan cannot be used for mailing back from Japan. Your self-addressed postcard must have a ¥70 Japanese postal stamp affixed.

 

 

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