The old-world charm of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi: a slow-paced stroll through Tokyo’s district streets
Last updated 2026-09-24 — When traveling in Tokyo, one of the most frequently used modes of transportation is arguably the JR Yamanote Line, often ranking in the top three. Heading south from Yamanote Line’s Nippori Station and choosing the exit for Yanaka Cemetery (Yanaka Boen), you cross a not-so-long footbridge to arrive at...
By TRAVELER Luxe Traveler
When traveling in Tokyo, one of the most frequently used modes of transportation is arguably the JR Yamanote Line, often ranking in the top three. Heading south from Yamanote Line’s Nippori Station and choosing the exit for Yanaka Cemetery (Yanaka Boen), you cross a not-so-long footbridge to arrive at Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi (やなせん)—a collective name for the three districts of Yanaka in Taito Ward, Nezu in Bunkyo Ward, and Sendagi. What makes this area special is not only its remarkably well-preserved old town atmosphere but also its time-slowing, leisurely street vibe, which is a far cry from the fast-paced, ever-evolving image of Tokyo that many have in mind. Wandering through the winding alleys of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, you feel as if you’ve stepped into one timeless scene after another. Everywhere you look, there are remnants of the past, such as temples and shrines, public baths, and rice cracker shops—all evoking a strong sense of everyday life. These elements create a rare slice of old Tokyo in an otherwise modern metropolis. At first glance, it may seem utterly retro, but in reality, it is a living, present-day scene unfolding at the pace of the neighborhood. Even passersby show no signs of hurry, and this atmosphere encourages visitors to slow down too—no need to rush through all the sights for fear of missing out. Instead, you find yourself naturally falling into step with the tranquil rhythm of the area.
The Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi area survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake and the Allied air raids of World War II, leaving behind an exceptionally intact old street atmosphere. (Image credit: TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
In Japanese media features on old towns, Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi have been frequently covered. Tracing the roots of this trend, observers note that even back when the magazine “Walking Masters” (Sanpo no Tatsujin) was first launched in 1996, there was already a growing interest in exploring old town districts. Another reason is Japan’s prolonged economic stagnation, during which these neighborhoods offered a way to experience something out of the ordinary without traveling far—a factor that has contributed to their rising popularity.
Indeed, Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi are filled with an old-time atmosphere. You’ll find shops selling wooden barrels and brooms housed in standalone wooden buildings, turn a corner and stumble upon traditional Japanese lifestyle stores that also sell maps for exploring the area, or come across a leather bag shop restocking its inventory as staff busily sort and arrange merchandise. Beyond classic crafts and daily goods, many unique shops showcase the creative vision of their owners—there are stores specializing in leather slippers, custom-made backpacks, and more. For travelers interested in home goods and lifestyle products, one day is definitely not enough. Even without a set plan, you’re bound to stumble upon a little shop that captures your heart around the next corner.
Yanaka Cemetery — A Stroll Through Modern Japanese History
Walk south from JR Nippori Station for five minutes, and you’ll find yourself at the entrance of Yanaka Cemetery. Starting your Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi exploration at a cemetery? Don’t be put off by the word—unlike some cultures, it’s common in Japan to find cemeteries of various sizes within residential areas. Yanaka Cemetery is so expansive that it’s even considered a popular “attraction” in the Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi region.
This is a greenbelt frequented by locals every day. In the mornings and evenings, residents pass through here on their way to the train station. In truth, Yanaka Cemetery resembles a vast park. Spanning 10,000 square meters, it boasts a rich variety of plants and trees, along with natural scenery that changes with the seasons—calling it an “urban oasis” is entirely fitting.
On weekends, you’ll see solemnly dressed individuals in black visiting graves, while many others stroll or jog along the tree-lined paths. In spring, it’s a highly sought-after cherry blossom spot where spots are hard to come by, and in summer, you can enjoy the cool shade filtered through the leaves—or simply sit quietly in the cemetery’s park area. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a cat sunbathing.
[INFO]
Address: 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)3-3821-4456 (Yanaka Cemetery Management Office)
The concept of life and death in Japan differs from ours, making it common to find cemeteries of varying sizes within residential areas. (Image credit: TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Kannon Temple Tsukiji X@ — Layers of History from the Edo Period
Walk along the tree-lined path of Yanaka Cemetery, and you’ll soon reach Kannon Temple Tsukiji X@. “Tsukiji X@” refers to an earthen wall made of tiles and soil. Although it’s called Kannon Temple Tsukiji X@, the temple itself no longer exists. To confirm, we walked back and forth along the earthen wall several times. On one side is a shrine, and on the other a dental clinic—the long earthen wall is truly the only remaining evidence that the temple once stood here.
Why come to see this wall? This 50-meter-long wall has a history of 200 years. After the temple was destroyed, the only glimpse we have of Edo-period Yanaka can be traced through this south-facing mud wall. Gazing at this hard-to-maintain surface, which still requires minor repairs today, you can see the marks of handiwork. Layer upon layer of history has accumulated here, each detail shaped by human effort, allowing it to stand before us in this form. It’s no wonder it won the “Taito Ward Corner of the Town Award” in 1993 (Heisei 4), and many consider it one of the sites that best symbolizes Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi.
[INFO]
Address: 5-8-28 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
Visiting Kannon Temple Tsukiji X@ at sunset, as the sky darkens and blends into the ancient-looking wall, accompanied by the cawing of crows, truly evokes an indescribable sense of deep nostalgia. (Image credit: TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Fujimizaka — A Corner Where Mt. Fuji Appears
“Can you see Mt. Fuji from central Tokyo?” The answer is yes—but only on days with clear weather and low air pollution. Located on the edge of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, Fujimizaka, as the name suggests, is the “slope where you can see Mt. Fuji.”
Following the road next to Kannon Temple Tsukiji X@—Suwadai-dori—you’ll easily reach Fujimizaka. We happened to visit during Tokyo’s unpredictable rainy season, when the gray skies were thick with clouds, and we could only imagine what it would be like to see Mt. Fuji from the slope. Still, we couldn’t help thinking, “If it were visible, it would surely be captivating!” According to local residents, on days when Mt. Fuji is visible, the normally quiet slope becomes crowded with people from near and far, all facing the same direction, eager to catch a glimpse of the mountain over 100 kilometers away. This behavior alone speaks volumes about the Japanese reverence for this iconic peak that symbolizes the spirit of Japan.
Aside from good weather, there are specific times of year—around January 30th and November 11th—when the setting sun aligns perfectly with the notch of Mt. Fuji as seen from Fujimizaka, creating the illusion that the mountain is emitting a radiant glow. This phenomenon is known as the “Diamond Fuji.” Visitors to Tokyo in the autumn and winter seasons might want to check it out on a clear day—you might just catch this rare, limited-time spectacle.
[INFO]
Address: 3 Nishinippori, Arakawa City, Tokyo, Japan
Located on the edge of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, Fujimizaka is the “slope where you can see Mt. Fuji.” (Image credit: TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Nezu Shrine — Cultural Heritage Beneath Towering Trees
The Chiyoda Line, operated by Tokyo Metro, runs through both Nezu and Sendagi stations, both of which lie entirely within the Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi area. It also connects with the JR line at Nishinippori Station, making it a highly recommended route for getting to Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. Nezu Shrine, located midway between Nezu and Sendagi stations, is the most significant landmark on the western side of the area. Legend has it that the shrine was founded 1,900 years ago by Yamato Takeru. The current main hall was built in 1706 by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the fifth shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate. The main hall, offering hall, worship hall, karamon gate, sutra repository, and gate tower are all completely preserved, and the site is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Walking along Fudomae-dori, as long as you’re heading in the right direction, you’ll easily spot the road sign for the “Nezu Shrine Entrance” (intended for drivers). Follow the lane and look ahead about 200 meters to see a patch of greenery. As you approach, you’ll find towering trees beside the torii gate marking the shrine area, and there, impressively, stands Nezu Shrine.
The architecture of Nezu Shrine is well worth seeing, as it is the largest shrine among those in Edo. The main hall and worship hall are in the magnificent Momoyama style from the Warring States period, with vermilion buildings adorned with dazzling gold lacquer. Since last year, the shrine has been undergoing renovation, with the buildings being repainted. All we can do is gaze at the scaffolding tightly enclosing the shrine buildings, looking forward to their majestic appearance after the renovation is completed in September.
Even in the afternoon, with the shrine buildings under repair, we kept encountering local residents walking their dogs in the shrine grounds—people of all ages. Some were even chatting leisurely with neighbors on the stone benches. It all felt so relaxed that you could almost forget you were actually in Tokyo, just minutes by car from the bustling crowds and traffic of Ueno Station.
[Info]
Address: 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo City, Tokyo, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)3-3822-0753
Website: www.nedujinja.or.jp
The largest shrine among Edo shrines, Nezu Shrine. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
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