Discover the Endless Charm of "Wa" (Japanese Tradition) in Fukui, Hokuriku

Braving the piercing cold, we stepped into Mitsugoshi-za, and despite wearing thick coats, we felt as if we had arrived in the sunny southern hemisphere. Mitsugoshi-za can be considered the cultural birthplace of the Mitsugoshi area in Sakai City. This small theater offers various performances, but the most recommended is their delicious burger. The “Mitsugoshi Burger” served on the plate resembles a small tower—crafted with a perfectly balanced patty made from Fukui-raised beef and domestic pork, topped with the region’s signature spicy leek, juicy and crisp vegetables, and drenched in generous homemade BBQ sauce. Just looking at it is enough to make your mouth water, not to mention the heavenly taste when it melts in your mouth, with all flavors blending seamlessly. The shrimp paste cream croquette burger made with local live shrimp is also an absolute delicacy.

Happily satisfying our hunger, we couldn’t help but go for a post-meal stroll to take in the nostalgic charm of Mitsugoshi Town. Located at the mouth of the Kuzuryu River, Mitsugoshi Town was a transportation hub in the Echizen region, especially thriving due to cargo shipping, which led to the prosperity of this commercial center and the rise of many wealthy merchant families, including the Morita family. Starting out in shipping, the Moritas successfully transitioned into banking and finance in the mid-Meiji era. The former head office of Morita Bank, built in 1920 (Taisho 9), is a Western-style reinforced concrete building with classical European architecture. It is not only the oldest surviving building in Fukui Prefecture but was also designated as a tangible cultural property by the national government in 1999 (Heisei 11). The intricate plaster ceiling carvings and ivory inlay work inside are truly breathtaking, and the 7-meter-long solid beech wood counter reveals the opulence of the Morita family.

 

Mitsugoshi Town also has another fashionable café where you can leisurely enjoy afternoon tea—Mitsugoshi-za Café. A classic Japanese traditional house paired with colorful pop-style chairs creates an oddly wonderful aesthetic. Moreover, just outside the wooden window is the Echizen Railway Mitsugoshi Port Station, where only two single-car trains pass by each hour. It's said that since its opening last year, it has attracted many train enthusiasts who come here just to watch trains pass by up close. The café manager points out that the corner upstairs offers the best view and is the perfect spot for photos. There, you can sip a steaming cup of delicious coffee, enjoy exclusive handmade fruit desserts, and pass the time enjoyably while waiting for the train to go by.

Stepping out of Mitsugoshi-za Café, you’ll discover a hidden gem—the seafood shop and restaurant “Kan no Bō,” specializing in Echizen seafood. Bright red Echizen crabs can be seen crawling around on the second floor of the shop. The fresh catch delivered by fishing boats returning to Mitsugoshi Port at night is a key reason for the great taste, and the sharp-eyed owner always picks out the premium quality ones, making the Echizen crabs, sweet shrimp, sea urchins, and even dried fish at Kan no Bō incredibly delicious.

 

The business-savvy owner also runs a ryokan (Japanese inn) where you can enjoy Echizen crab and soak in hot springs—“Bōyōrō.” Nestled next to the famous natural beauty of Tōjinbō, although it has only 10 rooms, its small size and refined details are its greatest charm. The place is adorned with lovely dolls, ornaments, and antiques. Whether in the private open-air bath in the guest rooms or the large communal open-air bath, you can listen to the roaring waves of the Sea of Japan crashing against the rocks. Soaking in the “bijin-tō” (beauty hot spring), which has a slightly salty taste that relieves muscle fatigue and improves skin, is an ultimate luxury. The multiple experiences of gourmet food, scenic beauty, and soothing hot springs are why even Matsudaira Shungaku, the lord of the Fukui Domain, visited Bōyōrō’s best room, “Matsukaze,” to entertain guests.

The Echizen Washi Village, composed of the “Udate Craft Museum” and the “Papyrus Museum,” lets you experience the 1,500-year history of washi (traditional Japanese paper) with your eyes and hands. Especially at the Udate Craft Museum, master craftsmen demonstrate the process firsthand—removing dust and impurities from boiled tree bark fibers, beating them repeatedly, and adding liquid from the roots of the tororo aoi plant (which functions like glue) to create the basic pulp. But turning it into delicate, soft washi paper requires additional meticulous handwork such as draining and shaping, pressing to remove excess moisture, and air-drying naturally. These traditional methods result in washi paper that won’t discolor, tear, or get insect damage even after a hundred years. Before stock certificates went digital in 2009, 95% of publicly listed stocks in Japan were printed on Echizen washi. At the Papyrus Museum, you can create your own unique piece of Echizen washi under the guidance of a master—from draining the pulp to designing patterns and quick drying. In just half an hour, you can take home a one-of-a-kind washi artwork. The scarcity of ancient paper also gave birth to the traditional Japanese gift shop “Kyōya.” The cheerful 18th-generation owner, Mr. Hashimoto, explains that while his ancestors originally made mirrors, they later became involved with high-end paper-related items, gradually evolving into a specialty shop selling items for engagements, celebrations, and festive occasions. Upon inquiry, he reveals that Japanese red envelopes (for monetary gifts) are quite eye-opening—with white envelopes tied with gold, silver, and other colored threads into patterns symbolizing pine, bamboo, plum, turtle, and crane. Just by looking at the knot decorations on the envelope, you can tell how much money is inside.