The Century-Old Charm of Tokyo’s Toden Arakawa Line

If you’re looking for majestic mountains and rivers, the Toden Arakawa Line doesn’t offer that. If you’re seeking top-tier convenience, it still doesn’t. But what it does have is a deeply nostalgic, old-world charm.

 

From the late Meiji era to the Showa period, streetcars were an integral part of life in Tokyo. The predecessor of the Toden Arakawa Line, the “Oji Electric Tramway,” which ran between Otsuka and Higashi-funabashi, carried the daily lives of many during that time a century ago. At its peak, it spanned 213 kilometers and carried up to 1.93 million passengers a day—an astonishing figure for the time. As private car ownership grew, the once-glorious streetcar system was nearly lost, but thanks to strong local support, the Arakawa Line was preserved. Today, these single green cars glide seamlessly through Tokyo’s streets, fitting in without disruption. Starting from the academic ambiance of Waseda, the Arakawa Line passes through scenes reminiscent of old Edo, as if deliberately slowing down to preserve the essence of the past.

On a bright and sunny morning, we arrived at our first stop, Waseda. Walking up the slope to the right from the station in the middle of the road and passing by affordable student eateries, you’ll reach the renowned private university—Waseda University. Established in 1920, Waseda originated from the Tokyo Senmon Gakko (Tokyo Vocational School) founded in 1882. The campus exudes a vibrant energy, while historic buildings like the Okuma Auditorium and the Tsubouchi Memorial Theatre Museum radiate historical charm. They also reflect the unique humanistic spirit and refined elegance of Waseda. From here, we strolled along the Kanda River, just one stop away, to Omokagebashi.

In the past, the Kanda River in Shinjuku was lined with dyeing workshops where fabrics were washed and hung out to dry along the clear stream—a spectacular sight no longer seen today. Now, the Tomita Dye Workshop remains as a guardian of traditional craftsmanship and culture, with its old wooden houses and workshops. The workshop is open for visits and also offers fabric dyeing experiences. Whether you want a small double-sided tea towel or wish to dye your own T-shirt, you can choose your favorite patterns from an extensive collection of stencils dating back to the Edo period. Under the guidance of skilled artisans, you apply the dye paste, scrape it off, and complete your own part of the process. The more intricate aspects of dyeing are handled by the professionals.

A few stops further is Komagome, surrounded by ancient shrines and beautiful cemeteries, with Komagome-Goryo-mae as one of its stations. After getting off the Toden, a long shrine approach lined with towering Japanese cypress trees creates a time-travel illusion. Komagome Shrine dates back to the 16th century, and its current main hall was reconstructed in 1664. The gentle-faced deity enshrined here is believed to protect safe childbirth and child-rearing, making it a popular site for centuries. To the east of Komagome lies a cemetery that was once the residence of shoguns during their falconry outings. Even after becoming a cemetery, it has retained abundant natural greenery. Many notable figures are buried here, such as Natsume Soseki and Takehisa Yumeji. It’s not uncommon to see quietly reverent Japanese visitors, and as you look around, a subtle sense of melancholy settles in, making you want to linger for a while.