Text by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Reported by Ren Xiang
Thanks to / East Japan Railway Company (JR East), Gunma Prefecture, Tochigi Prefecture, Yamanashi Prefecture
When discussing World Heritage Sites near Tokyo, the shrines and temples of Nikko will no longer be the only answer. In early summer 2013, Mount Fuji was officially added to the list of World Heritage Sites, becoming Japan’s seventeenth. Its value lies not only in the natural landscape and tangible relics left by our ancestors, but also in the profound meanings embedded within.
After landing, we took the Joetsu Shinkansen straight to Takasaki City in Gunma Prefecture. Gunma may not leave a strong impression at first, but mention the Daruma of Shorinzan or the Hazama Shrine with its main hall embedded in a massive rock, and people are sure to recognize them. Located between the two, Tomioka serves as the starting point of this journey.
The Gear That Connected Japan to the World
In the late nineteenth century, the Meiji government, in pursuit of Japan’s modernization, actively promoted silk exports—an industry that was then the most economically viable export. However, the surge in exports led to a decline in silk quality, which in turn affected Japan’s product reputation. To address this, the Japanese government invited Paul Brunat from France to provide guidance, introducing large machinery and recruiting a large number of female workers, thereby establishing a model factory—this was the Tomioka Silk Mill.
Located in Gunma Prefecture, the Tomioka Silk Mill continued to operate for over 115 years after being transferred from government to private enterprise, ceasing production only in 1987. The key structures, such as the reeling factory and silk cocoon warehouses, designated as nationally important cultural properties, remain in excellent condition as they were when founded during the Meiji era. The unique “timber-framed brick structure” of the Tomioka Silk Mill features wooden frames and brick walls, with brickwork stacked using French bonding techniques and joints filled with mortar instead of cement. French-imported iron window frames and door hinges were installed, while the roof tiles were made by craftsmen under Brunat’s guidance at a local factory in Gunma. By leveraging mechanical technology, the mill enabled the mass export of high-quality silk, greatly contributing to Japan’s modernization through the economic benefits it generated. It also spurred the development of nearby silk industries, making it an indispensable part of Japan’s modern history. Due to its historical significance, the Japanese government applied to UNESCO for World Heritage inscription in January 2013.
After operating for over a century, the Tomioka Silk Mill has gone dark, but its interior buildings retain their Meiji-era appearance. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)
In the evening, we headed to our accommodation for the night, Ikaho Onsen, a literary favorite among hot spring towns. Famous for its 360 stone steps, said to have been built to treat wounded samurai from battles, we walked up while admiring the poems carved into the steps until we reached Kakkou Bridge. At night, several lights shine on the bridge, blending with the fiery brilliance of the surrounding maple leaves to create a stunning scene that captivated everyone. Even in the cold winds of late autumn, we found it hard to leave.
The Perfect Harmony of Nature and Faith
The next day, we arrived in the Nikko area of Tochigi Prefecture, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its mysterious charm. Despite the continuous rain, many visitors still flocked here. The Nikko Sanja (two shrines and one temple) refer to the Toshogu Shrine, Rinnoji Temple, and Futarasan Shrine. They were inscribed as cultural heritage for two reasons: firstly, as the center of Japan’s mountain worship, the religious architecture of Nikko and its surrounding forest environment create a harmonious relationship where nature and shrines blend seamlessly, symbolizing peace between humans and deities. Secondly, the religious structures in Nikko represent the pinnacle of the Edo period, with the Toshogu Shrine, embodying the Momoyama culture architectural style, showcasing the creative spirit of the time.
The well-preserved Tomioka Silk Mill is a nationally designated historic site and a World Heritage candidate. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)
Built in 1617, the Toshogu Shrine primarily enshrines the deified Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, known as the “Great Deity of the East Shining Light.” By the time of the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, vast sums were spent, and master craftsmen from across the land were employed to make the Toshogu Shine resplendent. Its most famous feature is the Three Wise Monkeys carving on the Stable of the Sacred Horses. The Stable is the only plain-wood building within the Toshogu grounds and served as the horse stable. Since ancient times, there has been a belief that monkeys protect horses, so the eaves are adorned with various monkey carvings. The Three Wise Monkeys represent “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil,” serving as a moral lesson on self-cultivation.
Stepping up to the main hall, you are greeted by the resplendent Yomeimon Gate, glittering with gold and covered in as many as 508 exquisitely carved dragons—a breathtaking sight. On the veranda near the entrance to the inner shrine on the right side of Yomeimon, you can spot a cute sleeping cat—another notable feature known as the “Nemuri Neko” (Sleeping Cat). The inner shrine is the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu, and it is said that the Sleeping Cat exists to guard him. But if it’s asleep, how can it protect? One theory suggests that in times of peace, even the guardian cat can sleep soundly.
Futarasan Shrine, located next to Toshogu Shrine, is a famous shrine for love and matchmaking. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)
Quietly standing beside Toshogu Shrine, Futarasan Shrine is the spiritual center of Mount Nikko. In contrast to the grandeur of Toshogu, the architecture of Futarasan Shrine appears rustic and weighty, subtly exuding the simplicity and purity of Shinto beliefs. It is well known that Futarasan Shrine is also a famous shrine for love and matchmaking. Visitors often try their luck by fishing for fortune slips with a small fishing rod, seeking good romantic fortune, and then sipping matcha brewed with water from the Futarasan sacred spring—a fragrant and unforgettable experience.
A Fountain of Faith and Art
Mount Fuji, newly inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2013, is unique in that it is categorized not as a natural heritage but as a cultural heritage. As a symbol of the Japanese spirit, Mount Fuji embodies the deep faith and artistry of the Japanese people. The official name of its World Heritage inscription is “Mount Fuji: Object of Worship and Source of Art.” The surrounding Twenty-five Scenic Spots, including the Fuji Five Lakes, Oshino Hakkai, and various faith heritage sites, are all included. People have long regarded Mount Fuji as the dwelling place of the gods, and since ancient times, it has been the subject of countless Japanese poems, literary works, paintings, and other art forms, with new creations continuing to emerge to this day.
At Sai no Kawara Iyashinosato Negiha, you can experience various crafts and enjoy one of the best views of Mount Fuji. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)