Leaving behind the bustling city streets and heading up the mountain road toward Wulai, what greets you is the lush greenery of early spring—lush, vibrant, and slightly moist. Just twenty minutes out of the urban area, and it feels like you’ve entered another world. Well before the appointed time, host Xu Qinglin was already standing at the door to greet us. We hadn’t even eaten yet, but our hearts were already warmed.
Mr. Xu, who previously ran a tea business, had always had a passion for cooking. Friends and family often gathered at his home to enjoy meals and his signature dishes. But as manufacturing moved to mainland China, his decades-old tea shop gradually declined. A light bulb went off—he decided to open his doors and turn his home into a restaurant.
Going from a cooking hobbyist to a full-time culinary expert, Mr. Xu and his wife faced many challenges along the way: sourcing ingredients, creating menus, taking reservations—all tasks that were entirely new to them. They started small, modifying the flavors of traditional home-style dishes. Later, they revamped the entire dining concept. First, they turned the second floor study into a more comfortable dining space, improving both the ambiance and furnishings. Then, they began redesigning their menu based on customer feedback. Compared to the heavier “grandma’s home cooking” style, the wife leaned toward lighter, more refined flavors—like using pickled mustard greens as a base, or highlighting the aroma of mountain herbs. While her husband focused on plating, presentation, and textures, making each dish not only delicious but also visually appealing. In contrast to the heavier flavors found in many traditional eateries, Studio 28’s food also brings a touch of artistic flair.
Colorful shrimp-stuffed bell peppers, hiding shiso leaves and beetroot mash inside. (Photo credit: TRAVELER Luxe)
Sitting at the table waiting for the food to arrive, the sound of Mr. Xu lighting the stove and stir-frying occasionally drifts over through the thin partition wall, bringing back memories of waiting hungrily as a child for Mom to finish cooking dinner. But what arrives is nothing like the home-cooked meals you’d expect—it’s exquisitely plated fine cuisine that rivals French dishes in both presentation and flavor.
With creativity and craftsmanship, Mr. Xu surprises diners with both the presentation and taste of his dishes. Plump baby bok choy is tied with seaweed strips into little emerald sachets—bite in, and you find a steamed and braised pork meatball inside, full of flavor. Salmon roe, glistening like gems, pairs perfectly with Hokkaido lily bulbs, and together with polygonum multiflorum-stained lotus root slices, they’re tucked into a hollowed-out bitter melon to create a refreshing and appetizing dish.
Combining the joy of sharing a meal and drinking with friends, plus the amazement and emotion brought by the food itself, a visit to Studio 28 reveals the ultimate charm of home-style dining that keeps people coming back.
【Info】
Address: No. 28, Quchi Road, Xindian District, New Taipei City
Phone: 02-2666-0661
Note: Advance reservation required
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A crisp symphony of chayote, lotus root slices, lily bulbs, and salmon roe. (Photo credit: TRAVELER Luxe)