Step into a time tunnel and savor nostalgic retro coffee

Written / Compiled by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Journal & Attractions Home Editorial Team

In Japan, whether it’s the Taisho Romantic style or the Showa Modern style, they have always held an irresistible charm. Cafés and tearooms that preserve such vibes are even more captivating, making you feel as if you’ve fallen into a time tunnel, sitting down to enjoy a cup of coffee and feeling your mind settle and rest for a moment. This retro trend continues to thrive in Taiwan. In addition to long-established old cafés, cafés created from renovated old houses that exude an old-time vibe have also become a popular trend. IORI TEA HOUSE in Tainan is one such café that leaves a lasting impression.

Following the transformation of Xie Mansion at Tainan West Market and Xie Mansion on Bao’an Road, Xie Wenkan, who has been driving the trend of renovating old houses, launched his third Xie Mansion in 2011. Unlike the previous homestays that captivated visitors, Iori Tea House offers travelers a place to sit, relax, and contemplate where to go next while strolling through Tainan.

Having experienced that golden era, Xie Wenkan hopes to revitalize the entire street community through the rebirth of old houses. Across from Iori is the 70-year-old Tai Cheng Fruit Store, and further down is Rainbow Came; at the intersection of Zhengxing Street and Guohua Street is Zhengxing Coffee; near Ximen Road are Jiajia West Market and Xie Mansion at West Market. These new lives born from renovated old houses have led more and more people to see the value of heritage architecture.

Presented in the form of a Showa-era tearoom, Iori features walls and tea cabinets crafted with meticulous woodworking, paying attention to every detail. Xie Wenkan pointed to the walls inside the house and said that every piece of wood here must be chamfered, giving the edges of the wood an angle and creating neat grooves. The second-floor façade has three large arched windows. For the curved sections, the craftsman cut the wood finely so that it could bend and turn without breaking, slowly piecing together the arched windows. The 26 wooden chairs inside are made of Vietnamese teak, each intricately carved with patterns. Even the ceiling mural in the first-floor restroom was hand-painted by a friend, rather than taking the easy way out with convenient wallpaper.

Adhering to the persistence of a Tainan native, Xie Wenkan strives to present the original appearance of a Showa-era tearoom. The food is no exception. Served alongside the fruit pancakes is a small creamer jug, which Xie Wenkan collected from antique shops and old restaurants all over Taiwan—only 12 were found in total. The white porcelain teapot used for serving hot tea had 10 broken ones before, and no identical replacements could be found. “During the 228 holiday recently, when there were too many customers, we even had to make them wait for a teapot.”