Newly opened popular ramen shop in Taichung – enjoy tender, low-temperature beef ramen

Text & Photos /Ahmon

I was hanging out with friends recently, and one of them mentioned there’s a really good Tanuki Ramen in Wuri that has a rich broth very close to the Japanese style, which made me want to try it. Little did I know, not long after, a Tanuki Ramen also opened in Zhongxiao Night Market – I was pretty surprised and happy about that, since I wouldn’t have to go all the way to Wuri anymore, haha. The Zhongxiao Night Market branch is located at the end of Zhongxiao Road, closer to Taichung Railway Station. As a new shop on my must-try list just opened, of course I had to come and check it out. There’s motorcycle parking right in front of the shop, but for cars you’ll need to find a spot nearby, so I’d recommend coming by scooter. The black-and-white sign is very eye-catching at night, so you probably won’t get lost.

Right at the entrance, there’s a clear introduction to the shop’s broths @_@. In addition to the common pork bone broth, they also offer a rare chicken bone broth. I’ve only had chicken bone broth once before in Japan, and the flavor is really quite different from pork bone broth – I’ll definitely be trying both today.

Even though it’s a newly opened shop, the place was packed with diners!! It’s definitely a popular ramen spot. They’re already getting this many customers even in soft opening @@. The seating inside is divided between counter seats and small square tables – the layout feels quite similar to ramen shops in Japan, but the space here is more spacious and comfortable, without that cramped feeling. Unfortunately, the counter is a bit high, so you can’t see the chefs making the noodles very well. Since I was planning to chat with friends, I ended up choosing a table seat.

On the walls, you can see the philosophies and thoughts of the owners. Both owners are Taiwanese who fell in love with ramen, traveled around Japan trying different bowls, and learned through trial and error. Eventually, they poured their passion and experience into this Tanuki Ramen shop. Their story feels like it could be turned into a food-themed drama, something like a Japanese TV series – it would probably move a lot of people 0.0.

The ramen broths here are based on either pork bone or chicken bone stock, then further flavored with variations such as shio (salt), miso, hell (spicy), and soy sauce. Each type of ramen also offers two preparation styles: Taiwanese and Japanese – so the level of customization is pretty high. First you choose the broth base, then the flavor, and finally the style.

The most basic option is the shio (salt) ramen, and it’s only NT$150 per bowl. It comes with slices of char siu (bbq pork), green onions, dried bamboo shoots, and wood ear mushrooms. Compared to other ramen shops that often start at NT$200, this price is really generous. Aside from regular ramen, they also offer a less common tsukemen (dipping ramen) series. Tsukemen is kind of like Chinese sesame noodles – there’s no hot broth to drink. You can also choose the portion size of the noodles based on how hungry you are, which is also very Japanese-style XD.

In Japanese ramen, it’s common to have an “oversized” (大盛) option where both the portion and toppings are doubled, giving you a very satisfying and filling meal. But when Japanese ramen came to Taiwan, for reasons like smaller local appetites or sales strategy, most shops only offer the option to add extra noodles, not an oversized bowl.

But Tanuki Ramen does have an oversized series, and the price only goes up slightly, while the toppings are seriously doubled – more char siu, more everything. So if you have a big appetite or just love eating meat heartily, definitely go for the oversized option. It’ll fill you up like crazy.

Regarding the difference between Taiwanese and Japanese styles, it mainly comes down to three choices: noodle hardness, broth concentration, and whether to add flavor oil. If you prefer lighter flavors and softer noodles, go for the Taiwanese style. If you like the richer, saltier broth typical in Japan, along with firmer, chewier noodles, then choose the Japanese style. Since I’ve spent a lot of time in Japan and am used to the Japanese-style ramen, I went with the Japanese version this time.

On the menu, there’s a monthly limited-edition mystery dish, and this month it’s sesame dandan noodles. I wanted to try it just from the name, but then I saw it’s spicy and immediately backed off == ! Spicy food lovers can give it a shot.

There are two or three small jars on the table that seem to contain pickles. Out of curiosity, I opened one to see what was inside.

Seven-spice chili powder
One of the jars contains nanami togarashi, a spice mix commonly seen in Japanese restaurants. Compared to pure chili powder or spicy oil, nanami togarashi isn’t as harsh or overpowering, and it doesn’t mask the original flavor of the ingredients. If you prefer stronger flavors, adding a bit of this to your ramen can enhance the taste of the noodles and broth without going overboard. Just half a spoonful should be enough.

Fish flakes powder
As soon as I opened the lid, I could smell a refreshing aroma. Looking closer, it turned out to be fish flakes powder (鱼介粉)! I’d never seen this in a ramen shop in Taiwan before – it’s awesome for seafood or fish lovers. The flavor is fresh and delicate, a bit different from what I’ve had in Japan. Adding it to your ramen broth can really elevate the taste. If you use it with plain rice, it’s like furikake and makes the rice delicious too.

Pickled radish
I read reviews from the Wuri branch saying they served cucumber, but the Zhongxiao branch seems to have switched to radish. That’s actually better for me since I don’t like cucumber (dead-eyed stare). Crisp, juicy radish is the king. It’s great as a small appetizer or mixed into your ramen. And because the radish was really tasty, I remember eating almost half of it without realizing – if my friend hadn’t reminded me I still had ramen to eat, I might’ve kept going.

Like in Japanese ramen shops, there’s a big pitcher of ice water on the table. If you find the broth too salty, you can sip some water to balance it out.

There’s a current promotion: check in on social media and get a free ramen topping (choose one: green onion, wood ear mushroom, or dried bamboo shoot), or pay an extra NT$10 to upgrade to one premium topping (soft-boiled egg or char siu). Seems like a pretty good deal.

Fish tsukemen (120g) NT$190
The first thing to arrive was the tsukemen. In Japan, many ramen shops also serve tsukemen, since there are quite a few fans of it, but in Taiwan, ramen is still the dominant choice. Tanuki’s fish tsukemen comes with almost the same toppings as their pork bone ramen: two slices of char siu, dried bamboo shoots, wood ear mushrooms, chopped green onions, etc. The main difference is that the soft-boiled egg is a whole one. The noodles are specially made thick noodles, and they’re cold – I chose the 120g portion just in case I couldn’t finish it. Bigger eaters can also go for the 240g size. The dried bamboo shoots are especially worth mentioning – they’re crispy, flavorful, and even got me, someone who doesn’t usually like bamboo shoots, to eat several in a row. I was honestly surprised XD.

Dried fish dipping sauce
The secret to good tsukemen lies in the dipping sauce and the noodles. The fish tsukemen uses the shop’s special simmered dried fish sauce, made with pork bone broth as the base, plus dried fish, shiitake mushrooms, fish powder, and more. The powder on the seaweed in the middle of the bowl is the fish flakes powder from the table – it looks curry-colored and is super thick. If you feel the sauce isn’t strong enough, you can add more fish flakes powder to taste. The sauce is hot and gives off a strong fish aroma – it’s seriously mouthwatering, and I have zero resistance to this smell orz. You can use this sauce to dip either the noodles or the meat.

Soft-boiled egg
I really like this soft-boiled egg. A lot of places in Taiwan cook their eggs too long, and the yolk ends up fully cooked with no creamy texture left – but the soft-boiled egg at Tanuki Ramen still has a runny, custardy yolk, and the texture is amazing.

Char siu (bbq pork)
At first glance in the bowl, the slices don’t look very big, but when you pick them up with chopsticks and spread them out, they’re actually quite astonishing—such huge slices of meat, wow. One slice here is equivalent to 2–3 slices from other ramen shops. That’s real generosity right there. The char siu is made from the pork collar (chuck roll) part, so the ratio of fat to lean is just right. Plus, the chef has great control over the cooking, making the char siu tender and not dry, with a firm texture that’s not greasy at all. It’s the kind of char siu you’ll want to order extra of—it’s highly recommended.

Tsukemen (Dipping Ramen)
When eating, you first lift the thick noodles out of the bowl, then dip them into the sauce much like you would dip meat slices, letting the noodles soak up the flavor before eating. Because the noodles are thick, they have an especially chewy and springy texture. The more you chew, the more the aroma of the sauce gradually spreads in your mouth, becoming richer and more delicious. With tsukemen, the sauce is really the star. Compared to tsukemen I’ve had in Japan, Rikou’s version isn’t as salty, and the bonito flavor is quite distinct—it seems the recipe has been adjusted for Taiwanese tastes.

Shio Ramen $150 (Chicken Bone Broth)
Since it was my first visit, I naturally started with the most basic ramen. Since shio ramen comes in both chicken bone and pork bone broth versions, I decided to go with the chicken bone first and try the pork bone later to compare the differences. For seasoning, I chose the salt-based flavor, and for preparation, the Japanese style—this whole bowl was only $150, which felt like a great deal. It came with char siu, ajitsuke tamago (marbled egg), bamboo shoots, onions, green onions, and other toppings. The most eye-catching was the pale pink chicken char siu. Also, the broth color seemed a bit lighter and clearer compared to the pork bone version.

Chicken Char Siu
Most people have probably had pork char siu, but not many have heard of or tried chicken char siu. This one is made from chicken breast, lightly cooked at a low temperature and then sliced. At first, hearing it was chicken breast, I thought it might turn out dry and tough, so I didn’t have high expectations. But the moment I took the first bite, I was pleasantly surprised—wow, it’s as tender as beef. That’s insane. Is this really chicken breast? How can it be this tender? It’s almost as tender as chicken thigh meat. This can’t be chicken breast, XDDD. Because it was unbelievably tender, I polished off those few slices in seconds. You can also dip it in the chicken bone broth for even more flavor—it’s highly recommended and a must-try.

Chicken Bone Broth
Most ramen shops in Taiwan use pork bone broth, and it’s rare to find ones that offer more than one type of broth, since having multiple broths complicates kitchen preparations. This chicken bone broth is richer than regular chicken soup, likely simmered for a long time, but it’s milder and clearer than the pork bone broth here. The saltiness is just right for me—it’s a drinkable broth. What’s particularly nice is the addition of diced onions for extra flavor and texture, which I really liked. If you’re not a fan of pork bone broth, this chicken bone version is a great alternative.

Low-Temp Beef Ramen $260 (Pork Bone Broth)
The most eye-catching item on the entire menu for me was this Low-Temp Beef Ramen. I’ve eaten ramen in Japan over a hundred times, and 95% of them use pork—combinations with beef are extremely rare. In Japan, I’ve only had it once, and that was with fully cooked beef, so seeing it done with low-temp beef (half-cooked) is a first for me. I have to say, Rikou’s chef is incredibly creative to come up with such a combination. Of course, I had to try it.

Possibly due to the special cooking method, this ramen took a bit longer to prepare. No problem—great food is worth the wait. When it finally arrived, seeing the light pink beef, I knew it had to be amazing. The toppings included a half-boiled marbled egg, green onions, black fungus, bamboo shoots, and a large piece of seaweed. Eat the seaweed first, or it’ll get soggy and lose its texture. The broth also seems to be pork bone-based.

Low-Temp Beef
When eating Western food, steak is best at around 3–5 minutes of doneness. Similarly, although the chef at Rikou didn’t ask how I wanted my beef cooked, judging by the color, I’d guess it’s less than medium-rare—that’s the perfect doneness. And from the color and marbling, it seems the beef used is of very high quality, probably not cheap either. I counted about eight slices—they gave quite a generous portion, which shows the owner’s generosity. All this for just $260. Since I’d been looking forward to this beef for so long, I ate the meat first before the noodles XD. The first bite—wow, what a surprise. It’s even better than steak from a Western restaurant. I never expected ramen shop low-temp beef to taste this good. It’s super tender, bursting with juicy flavor in the mouth. Instantly, I wanted to order another serving of just the low-temp beef and let my friends finish the rest of the ramen. Wait—there’s no low-temp beef option on the menu. Hmm... is it possible to order the low-temp beef as a side dish?

The ramen uses thin noodles, giving it a bouncier and smoother texture that contrasts nicely with the tender low-temp beef slices—making it even more enjoyable the more you eat.

Large Bowl Pork Bone Ramen $210 (Pork Bone Broth)
This is the heavyweight “Large Bowl” series, with both noodle and topping portions doubled. If you have a small appetite, definitely don’t order this—you won’t finish it. Since it’s prepared in the Japanese style, you can clearly see the shine of pork back fat floating on the broth. This fat is one of the keys to making the ramen delicious. The rich pork bone broth, combined with some pork back fat, is absolutely phenomenal. The pork bone broth seems to be made with genuine ingredients—it’s aromatic and thick, not watery. The saltiness is moderate for me, as the ones I’ve had in Japan were even saltier and more intense. If you prefer something less greasy, I’d recommend the Taiwanese-style version. The char siu portion goes from two slices to four, and there are also noticeable increases in bamboo shoots and black fungus. The noodles are still the thin type. When eating, stir the ramen in the broth first to let the noodles absorb more juice. Take a bite of char siu, then a bite of ramen—that combo is even better. One final note: if you have a small appetite, stick with the regular portion—don’t risk trying the Large Bowl.<。

Overall
After several bowls of ramen, I felt the broths were excellent, the noodle textures were spot-on, and the toppings were generous. For the price, it’s really a great value. No wonder there are so many customers. I highly recommend the Low-Temp Beef Ramen—it’s probably the only place in Taiwan where you can try it, and that beef leaves a flavor you’ll keep craving. The Chicken Char Siu Ramen is also unique, with praise-worthy chicken char siu. These are just my personal thoughts, for reference only.
 

Rikou Pork Bone Ramen (Zhongxiao Flagship Store)
Phone: 0976-519257 (Weekdays: 17:00–01:00, Weekends: 12:00–15:00, 17:00–22:00. Closed on Wednesdays)
Address: No. 322-1, Zhongxiao Road, East District, Taichung City
Price: $150 and up

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