Five Reasons to Visit Kawagoe by Seibu Railway

By MOOK Scenic Spots Editorial Team

If you’re looking for a pleasant stroll through the Tokyo suburbs, taking the Seibu Railway to Kawagoe, just a 50-minute ride from Shinjuku, is an elegant choice. Also known as “Little Edo,” Kawagoe boasts well-preserved houses, warehouses, and shops from the Taisho and Meiji eras that seem frozen in time. So we rose early one morning, boarded the limited express Koedo train from Seibu-Shinjuku Station, and arrived at Kawagoe Station in just 45 minutes—less than an hour’s journey offering the perfect balance of leisure, mirroring our mood that day.

Before setting off, we had booked a local kimono experience. The 18th of every month is Kawagoe’s Kimono Day, where wearing a kimono on the loop bus or visiting participating shops earns you discounts. Matching my mood, I chose a pink kimono adorned with bellflower patterns and paired it with a dark red obi—perfect for a traditional merchant’s daughter look. Once dressed and with my hair styled, I felt completely immersed in the nostalgic local atmosphere.

The iconic Time Bell Tower welcomed us. Its wooden structure and black roof tiles overflow with Edo-period charm. This public timekeeping facility for the castle town originated in the early Edo period. Though damaged by fires over the years and now in its fourth iteration, its construction methods strictly adhere to ancient traditions. The bell currently chimes four times daily—at 6 a.m., noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m. The melodious tones fill the air, deepening the sense of historical nostalgia.

For lunch, let’s go with eel rice. The custom of eating eel in this area began in the Edo period. Legend has it that meat such as pork was prohibited at the time, and with no nearby seaside for fresh fish, locals turned to rivers for protein—thus beginning the history of eel rice. Fresh eel is grilled with soy-based sauce, and the aroma of charcoal smoke mingling with simmering sauce stirs everyone’s appetite. There are many eel rice restaurants in Kawagoe, but the superlative Ichino-ya, founded in 1832, is truly exceptional. Its secret sauce recipe, passed down through generations and known only to the shop owner, has captivated palates for a century—the hidden secrets are best left for your taste buds to uncover.

With energy replenished by the eel rice, we returned to the old streets full of Edo charm. Kawagoe’s retro vibes are everywhere, but none are more beloved than Kurazukuri Street. Along this stone-paved lane, black-lacquered wooden boards, white-plastered walls, bright red paper umbrellas, navy blue flags, and colorful candies and snacks displayed at shop entrances fill the air with the faint scent of roasted rice crackers. Breezes tinkle wind chimes into a leisurely tune, as various colors and objects harmoniously blend flavors, sights, and scents into a perfect painting of daily life in a castle town.