【Teacher Youqun】A British Fragrance Journey in Paris – Penhaligon’s 1870

Original text fromLi Youqun

Friends who know me well are aware of my obsession: “a place should look like what it is.” It’s a professional fixation with aesthetic consistency and visual harmony.

So, it seems only natural that in Paris you’d only look at clothes by French designers, enjoy only local French cuisine, and dress only like a Parisian.

Yet, strolling down the impeccably dressed Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, I couldn’t resist the captivating scent wafting from Penhaligon’s (潘海利根), a timeless British fragrance. And so, I pushed open the door of its Saint-Honoré boutique and embarked on a “British fragrance journey in Paris.”

My fascination with perfume is as addictive as the peaty aroma of Islay whisky on a night. Especially for Penhaligon’s, this top-tier British fragrance brand.

Stepping into the store, look to the right wall where the royal warrants awarded by the Duke of Edinburgh in 1965 and the Prince of Wales in 1988 are proudly displayed. In front sits the latest Portraits collection—animal-themed portrait fragrances designed by Icelandic artist Kristjana Williams. Stags, leopards, hunting dogs, foxes—each bottle features exquisitely carved, Victorian-style illustrations and packaging, making every fragrance as stunningly beautiful as a museum artwork, except these also emit irresistible scents.

I love the scent of Duke the hunting dog. The shopkeeper told me each fragrance represents a character in a fictional story about an upper-class British family. The Duke I’m smitten with is a charismatic playboy, with a fragrance that blends light woody and rose notes, slightly roguish—perhaps reflecting my inner world.

I learned that Penhaligon’s originated in London in 1870. Its founder, William Penhaligon, was actually a barber who opened a grooming salon next to a Turkish bath on Piccadilly, offering grooming services to bathers.

Therefore, walking further into the Saint-Honoré store, you’ll find a vintage grooming chair, barber tools, and a full-length mirror, as if stepping into that old Piccadilly salon from 19th-century London. Interestingly, the perfume shop still faithfully offers grooming services. As someone who loves vintage styles, I couldn’t resist and immediately booked an appointment with the shopkeeper for an early haircut the next morning.

(Those interested can check out my video to see me getting my hair cut by a French stylist while sitting on a comfy British-style grooming chair during my live stream in Paris)

Now that I knew about Penhaligon’s history, I couldn’t help interrupting the shopkeeper, who was enthusiastically introducing various fragrances.

“I’m looking for Penhaligon’s very first fragrance since its founding, ‘Hammam Bouquet,’ because it’s especially meaningful.” When Mr. William Penhaligon ran his barber shop, he created the brand’s first fragrance inspired by the unique scents of the Turkish baths—it was called “Hammam Bouquet” (Turkish Hamam). Upon hearing this, the shopkeeper immediately handed me the beautifully bottled fragrance, tied with a red ribbon, resembling a sweet liqueur.

The scent is truly complex, reportedly blended with Turkish rose, amber, cedarwood, musk, and lavender—various spices with distinct Eastern characteristics. Complexity doesn’t mean disorder. Closing my eyes and taking in the fragrance, I felt as though I were in the bustling Turkish baths over a hundred years ago, or listening to a grand symphonic suite with clear progression of top, middle, and base notes. Without hesitation, I decided to take it home. I loved how they elegantly sprayed the perfume onto the packaging paper.

In Paris, on Rue Saint-Honoré, what I ended up searching for wasn’t Chanel No. 5—but Penhaligon’s 1870.

Li Youqun / International Fashion Director

A leading figure in the Chinese fashion industry, record holder for the most editor-in-chief positions at fashion magazine launches. Actively involved in entertainment, he is a designated collaborator on fashion shows like “Women’s Talk” and a go-to stylist for international brands and celebrities. Centered around fashion, he is the only figure in China spanning multiple roles—editor-in-chief, fashion director, stylist, and author.

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