Explore Kyoto by bike！ Enjoy a tranquil lunch at a traditional "machiya"

Text and photos / Excerpted fromPedaling Through Kyoto’s Slow Time by pseudo-Japanese MAY, published by Kingwalk Culture Publishing

The "Kyoto machiya" originated in the Heian period. Typical machiya architecture features a narrow facade but extends deep and long inside, often two stories, occasionally three. The street-facing part served as shops, and after centuries of transformation, by the Edo period, it had evolved into a residence style that integrated living and working. Most of the surviving machiya houses in Kyoto were built during the Meiji or Taisho periods, featuring dark latticework known as "akagoshikumado," insect cage windows, and other designs showcasing the ingenuity of craftsmen, many of which remain remarkably well-preserved to this day.

In recent years, machiya have often been converted into cafes, restaurants, or guesthouses. These old wooden lattice houses exude an ancient charm—you can easily sense movement outside, but outsiders cannot peek in. Typically, a small Japanese garden is designed in the middle or rear of the house, adding a refined and tranquil atmosphere. After a morning of cycling and soaking in history and culture, let May take you to enjoy a delightful Kyoto machiya lunch, seeking a moment of peace down the alleys.

Kotoba no Haoto (Old Books & Tea Room)

Nestled in an alleyway, "Kotoba no Haoto" boasts the signature secluded lattice windows of kyomachiya architecture. It's quite inconspicuous in the residential area and easy to miss if you're not paying attention. Lift the short linen curtain at the entrance, wheel your bike into the narrow passageway to park, and a young couple will greet you, giving you the warm feeling of coming home. The interior is much larger than expected, with tatami mat flooring and a quaint Japanese garden, perfectly preserving the charm of a traditional kyomachiya residence. The space is filled with books, various small toys, maneki-neko (lucky cats), and occasional exhibits. They also serve simple set meals, curry, bread dishes, and many desserts that caught May’s eye—both in portion and taste, they are truly impressive. Even when full, the dining area remains quiet and cozy, making it hard to leave, perfect for travelers who enjoy leisurely wandering without a rush.

A postcard in the shop reads: “Live like you’re traveling,” which couldn’t be more fitting for May.

Kotoba no Haoto (Old Books & Tea Room) │Official website
Address: 34 Oguruma-cho, Daimaru-cho, Aburanokoji-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-414-2050
Hours: 11:30–19:30 (Closed Mon & Tue)
Access: City bus 9 or 50 → Get off at “Horikawa-Shimochōjamachi,” walk 3 mins; Subway Karasuma Line → Get off at “Marutamachi/Imadegawa Station,” walk 15 mins

Toraya Ryokan (Toraya Karyo)

Founded in the late Muromachi period, Toraya has a history of nearly 500 years. Originally a purveyor of wagashi (Japanese confections) to the Imperial Family, it gradually became available to the public, especially after the Meiji Restoration and the relocation of the capital to Tokyo. It is best known for its high-quality yokan (sweet bean jelly) and seasonal wagashi crafted according to the changing of the seasons.

Located on Ichijo-dori near the Kyoto Imperial Palace, "Toraya Ryokan" was designed by renowned architect Hiroshi Naito. Its spacious, humanistic interior is a far cry from the typical image of cramped Japanese rooms. It blends Western architectural concepts with traditional kyomachiya style, offering a cultural space that invites travelers to pause and relax.

Toraya Ryokan (Toraya Karyo) │Official website
Kyoto Ichijo Shop
Address: Uramachi, Imadegawa-dori, Ichijo-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-441-3113
Hours: 10:00–18:00 (last order at 17:30)
Closed: Irregular holidays, check the official website for details.
Access: City bus 59, 201, 203, or Rakuhoku 102 → Get off at “Karasuma-Imadegawa,” walk 3 mins