Hualien Fuyuan Tofu Shop – “Aromatic” tofu is delightfully tender and silky, while tofu pudding melts in your mouth

Photos & Text /Xiaohu’s Dream-Eating Web

We often used to say that Hualien has beautiful mountains and waters, but I usually only “saw” them, never really “tasted” them. This three-month-long island-rounding check-in trip, however, allowed me to truly experience what “beautiful mountains and waters” means—with my mouth, at least. At the very least, the water here must be good (laughs).

Those who follow Xiaohu’s Dream-Eating Web on Facebook should know this—or perhaps they’ve also scolded me for constantly posting about “tofu, stinky tofu...”

Speaking of this shop called “Fuyuan Tofu Shop,” I wonder if any of you have been reminded of something from a certain manga... We once walked right past it without going in, but luckily, during our island-rounding check-in trip, someone reminded us—this little episode we’ll revisit when we write about our railway journey around Taiwan and stop at Chihshang Station. In short, we were just a hundred steps away from it and didn’t even give it a second glance.


At first, I thought this was a shop that specialized in fried stinky tofu, but when we got closer, we couldn’t smell much of the “stink.” Everyone, remember the business hours—we won’t write them again at the end (laughs).


Calling it a shop is a bit of a stretch—it’s more like a roadside stall—but overall, it still has a rather unique atmosphere. Since it’s not on Chihshang’s more bustling streets but rather at the end of a dead-end alley, I think its fame must come from word of mouth among those who’ve enjoyed its delicious offerings.


The dining area is basically a small courtyard enclosed in front of their home, covered with an iron shed. The setup is quite thoughtful, though there are quite a few mosquitoes...

If these were in a restaurant, I’d definitely think they were decorations—but here, I can’t help but wonder what’s inside? Maybe pickles?


Aside from the few seats in front of the house, I think the business has been doing so well that even what might be a building related to farming has been turned into an alternative dining space. The walls inside are adorned with cute paintings, giving off a warm vibe. I imagine eating a bowl of tofu pudding or a plate of fried tofu here would have a uniquely delightful flavor.


“Fuyuan Tofu Shop” mostly sells soy-based products, except for the pickles at the back. Wait, why does it say “fried stinky tofu” outside, but once you’re inside, it becomes “fried fragrant tofu”? (laughs)
Since I’d never been here before, I didn’t know what to expect, so I tentatively ordered three items: fried “fragrant” tofu, soy milk, and tofu pudding. The tofu pudding came in two flavors: Chinese toon and mustard. The former sounded more unique, but unfortunately, it was sold out, so I went with the mustard one.


While this soy milk isn’t as thick as the kind from Guting’s Dayuan Soy Milk Shop, it still has a full-bodied soy flavor—no doubt about it. The best part? It’s completely unsweetened, so what you taste is the pure, original flavor of soy milk.


I wonder if anyone has ever asked, “What’s the difference between tofu pudding and soybean curd pudding?” In terms of ingredients and preparation, they’re basically quite similar. If you change the container, it could easily look like a bowl of tofu pudding, right? But honestly, you don’t need to worry too much about whether it’s tofu pudding or soybean curd pudding—the important thing is that it tastes good.

It definitely tastes like tofu when you take a bite, but the texture is remarkably similar to tofu pudding. When you press it apart and expect sweetness, you’re instead met with the savory umami of light soy sauce and a slightly sharp yet surprisingly pleasant mustard spice. If ginger juice pairs well with tofu pudding, then mustard and tofu are actually a pretty good match. Maybe one day the four of them—um, no, the two flavors—could swap partners and create an entirely new spark.


I say it tastes like tofu pudding, but the way it feels in your mouth is just a little different. The difference lies in that final slight dragging sensation on the tongue—that slightly gritty, lingering feel as it dances on your taste buds makes your brain insist it’s definitely tofu. But whether it’s tofu pudding or tofu, what you’re left with is a rich, refreshing soy aroma—absolutely delicious.


Now, let’s talk about this plate of fried tofu that doesn’t look very appetizing. At this point, I didn’t care whether it was stinky or fragrant. After snapping a quick photo, I quickly popped a piece into my mouth. Perhaps because I had low expectations based on its appearance, my eyes widened after the first bite. My companion on the right asked, “Is it not good?” I didn’t answer right away but instead popped another piece into my mouth. This time, I chewed it slowly and savored it gently.

The reason I initially said it didn’t look very appetizing was because the tofu seemed over-fried and a bit hard. But upon closer inspection, the golden-brown color made it clear it couldn’t possibly be too hard. Also, at first glance, it looked quite thick, but up close, you could still see the fried marks and tiny holes on the surface. As it turns out, sometimes you shouldn’t trust what your eyes see. While the crispiness of this tofu might not compare to the bridgehead stinky tofu from Yuli, that fleeting, crispy bite is still something special. But...


“This tofu is just too fine, too tender, too smooth, too fragrant, too sweet, too delicious!” That was my answer after quickly eating two pieces, given to my companion on the right. After she skeptically took a bite, she got up and walked toward the stall.


By the way, the chili-soy sauce that comes with the fried tofu is quite spicy and intense, but fortunately, the spiciness comes on fast and fades just as quickly, which is why I actually quite like it. And I forgot to take a picture of the pickles, but they’re the kind I like—slightly sweet with a pleasant tanginess. They have a nice crunch without being too hard on the palate, and they might just be the most to-my-taste pickles I’ve had recently.

Next, these two bowls are what my companion on the right brought back after running back to the stall. Her reasoning was: “This place is so far away, who knows when I’ll get the chance to come back? I have to try everything on the wall at least once—just to be fair to my conscience and to you, our loyal readers, right?”

Alright, I admit, I often use this line to defend myself when she complains I’ve ordered too much—but this time, I was completely defenseless. After all, whether it’s called tofu pudding or tofu, I really liked—and was even surprised by—this place.


These two bowls are the real deal tofu pudding—at least, that’s what the menu says. There are two flavors: one is “black sugar ginger tea,” which can come with peanuts, though I forgot if there’s an extra charge. The texture is more substantial (more like traditional tofu pudding), yet it somehow feels lighter and finer than other tofu puddings I’ve had. Yet the soy aroma is still wonderfully refreshing. Aside from Hualien having “good water,” I really can’t think of any other reason why every tofu and tofu pudding I’ve had here has been so delicious...

Also, the black sugar in this tofu pudding only lends its aroma—the sweetness is very mild, and the ginger flavor is equally gentle, allowing the fragrance of the tofu pudding to linger and stay delicious for longer.


Finally, there’s the longan and mung bean-flavored tofu pudding. Similarly, the sweetness of the mung beans and longan is very subtle, not trying to steal the spotlight from the tofu pudding. This made it especially well-received by my companion on the right, who prefers milder flavors.

The mung beans are cooked until soft and smooth, and you can even find bits of chewy dried longan. I never expected to find such delicious street food in such a rural place—or maybe it’s precisely because it’s in such a small, out-of-the-way spot that you can enjoy such dedicated, pure flavors and heartfelt experiences.


Lastly, I’d like to add a note about the texture of this tofu pudding. When it goes into your mouth, it seems to almost melt away, but when you press it down, you can clearly feel it’s made up of small, distinct pieces. Yet when your tongue or the roof of your mouth presses against it, that sensation disappears... It’s a texture I’ve never experienced in tofu pudding before.



[Fuyuan Tofu Shop]

Address:No. 70, Zhongxi 3rd Road, Chishang Township, Taitung County (go to the end of the alley on the right side of Fuyuan Elementary School)
Phone:089-862413
Business Hours:3:00 PM – 7:00 PM (Closed on Mondays)

Xiao Hu’s Dream-Eating Web
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