Take a stroll in Hong Kong’s backyard garden – head to “Sai Kung” to hop on a boat, explore islands, and browse unique shops

Text and photos / Buji

Feeling that a Hong Kong trip is too monotonous with non-stop shopping? Then take a walk in the suburban mountains or by the seaside. Usually, these places are only a half-hour to one-hour drive from the city center.“Sai Kung”is one of them.

Also knownas the “back garden of Hong Kong,” Sai Kung exudes the laid-back charm of a small fishing village. Along the seawall, there are rows of freshly caught seafood shops where you can indulge in fresh seafood. Near the coast, there are also many small islands scattered about—just pick any boat operator and set sail for an island-hopping adventure.Its streets and alleys are full of authentic Hong Kong flavor, with simple daily life unfolding in the lanes. And because many foreigners have settled here, it adds a touch of international flair. Come explore Sai Kung with Buji~

Since it’s in the suburbs, it naturally takes a bit more travel time, but it’s not really that far. Let’s start with transportation. Many people get to Sai Kung by takingbus 92 from “Diamond Hill Station” or “Choi Hung Station” on the MTR, and Buji followed suit by taking bus 92 too.

Although both “Diamond Hill Station” and “Choi Hung Station” are served by bus 92, the former is the first stop, so it’s recommended totake the bus at “the bus terminus at Exit C of Diamond Hill Station”— this way, you’ll almost definitely get a seat (for more transportation options to Sai Kung, see the end of the article).

Along the way, there are fewer high-rises in the mountainous area, and you’ll even spot bays at the turns—what a pleasant view~

About 40 minutes later, buildings start to appear one after another. When you see this sight, you’ve arrived in Sai Kung.

After getting off the bus, there’s an introduction to the Hong Kong Global Geopark nearby. The geology of Sai Kung is quite unique, primarily composed of volcanic rocks. The bridge-shaped island that Buji explored during the island-hopping trip is made of volcanic rock, while the northeastern part of the New Territories features sedimentary rock formations over 400 million years old. These two areas together form a geopark that serves as both an educational site and a leisure destination for locals during holidays.

[By the seawall, by the harbor]

The bus drop-off point is actually not far from the coast. Just follow the sea breeze and the smell of the ocean, and you’ll reach the harbor with its lineup of boats in about three minutes.

In the past, Sai Kung was a small fishing village where every household made a living by fishing. Although the number of fishermen has decreased nowadays, you can still see plenty of fishing boats in the harbor. However, besides fishing boats, there are also more tourist boats—the main income of many boat operators comes from taking passengers out to explore the nearby islands.

On the other side of the harbor, in the seaside park, the sea surface is much quieter, with only a few small boats. It’s unclear what these little boats are used for, but their bright colors add some liveliness to the otherwise muted seascape.

☆Note: The harbor is located on the right-hand side of the coast when facing away from the bus, while the seaside park is on the left-hand side.

What looks like rolling hills in the distance are actually a series of small islands.
I really love this scenery—the sea is calm, the breeze is cool, and although it’s cloudy, there’s a comforting atmosphere.

[Seaside Seafood Street]

Near the harbor, there are fishing boats bringing in the catch, and of course, there are seafood restaurants where people can enjoy the day’s haul. Each seafood restaurant is fairly large, with dozens of tables and chairs. If you’re hungry, having a few plates of seafood would be great. But on both visits to Sai Kung before this, my stomach was already full, so I didn’t get to try the food here (you do need to bring extra cash for seafood, haha, I’m broke).

It’s said that the restaurant below, Tsui Kee Seafood, was once recommended by the Michelin Guide (though it didn’t get a star, just a recommendation), so it’s quite well-known.

Outside the restaurant, there are all kinds of live seafood for diners to choose from—each one is plump and huge. Many are species that Buji couldn’t even name, which is pretty special.

[By the fishing harbor, the unique scene of fish being sold from boats]

On this day, we happened to see fishermen unloading their catch right by the harbor. Honestly, I couldn’t really tell what most of it was—just various types of shellfish like oysters and clams.

Quite uniquely, many fishing boats were also selling seafood directly. Customers would pick out their choices from the shore, haggle prices with the boat owners, and once a deal was made, the catch would be casually tossed up to them in a plastic bag. Some fishmongers even offered gutting and slicing services.

【Daily Life on the Streets of Hong Kong Locals】

Strolling along the coastal fishing harbor, a quick turn brought us to Market Street, where locals go about their everyday routines. There weren’t many pedestrians, and the pace was leisurely.

Shop owners of small eateries, juice bars, flower shops, and grocery stores sat at their doorways. Though there weren’t many passersby, they weren’t aggressively selling either, simply going about their own business. I especially loved the retro-style signs—they had a distinctly local Hong Kong charm.

Low-rise buildings, three or four stories high, stood neatly in rows, without the towering density and claustrophobic feeling you get in urban high-rises.

The houses weren’t lavish, but they felt approachable. Looking up, you could see unfiltered glimpses of residents’ daily lives: slightly messy balconies, half-damp towels hanging over railings, unused hangers, and frosted windows glowing faintly under fluorescent lights.

Venturing down a narrow alleyway offered a completely different vibe.

【International Restaurants and Quirky Boutiques】

In fact, many foreigners live in Sai Kung, so it’s not uncommon to spot blond-haired, blue-eyed Westerners around, as well as various international-style restaurants—Sri Lankan eateries, European-style cafés, Italian restaurants, and more—all with rather distinctive décor.

Aside from uniquely decorated foreign cuisine spots, wandering the streets and alleys here always brings pleasant surprises in the form of hidden gems.

This beer specialty shop displayed an array of brews from around the world—glass bottles, aluminum cans, all sorts of shapes—that were absolutely captivating to look at. Beer enthusiasts would probably want to buy them all, though sadly, they’re too heavy to carry.

We also browsed a few design boutiques full of hipster charm.

One second-hand goods store left a deep impression—it wasn’t just clothes, accessories, or bags, but also all kinds of miscellaneous goods, decorations, displays, toys—both the expected and the unexpected. It truly felt like treasure hunting.

Although the items were used, they had a certain aged charm.

【Public Pier: Take a Boat for Island-Hopping Adventures】

After weaving through the alleys and escaping the lure of all those charming little shops (seriously, you’d end up buying way too much if you lingered!), it was time to hop on a boat and explore the islands.

Along the Sai Kung harbor, there are two piers: one for fishing boats and the other, not far away, is the Public Pier (pictured below). Tourists looking to go island-hopping can take sightseeing boats from here.

Next to the public pier, there are numerous boat operators. Simple stalls display their itineraries and prices, so it’s worth comparing a few options and deciding based on your schedule and budget.

On my first visit to Sai Kung, I really wanted to take a boat trip but didn’t have the time. When I returned, even though a light drizzle was falling, I decided I had to go. After checking out several operators, it was hard to tell which was better—the prices were similar, so I just picked one at random.

This time, I chose “Cat Kee” as our boat operator. Due to the poor weather and some waves, we didn’t dare venture too far or stay out too long, so we opted for the simplest package: “Kiu Tsui Island + viewing the sea’s peculiar rocks.”

The above is the boat operator’s itinerary summary. Originally, we could’ve also seen coral reefs, but due to bad weather and poor underwater visibility, that part was canceled.

This yellow-roofed boat was the one that took us to see the weird and wonderful rocks that day.

With the motor roaring to life, the boat slowly pulled away from the pier, cruising around nearby small islands and the jagged sea rocks. The boatman, Uncle Bei, served as both captain and tour guide, narrating in not-so-fluent Hong Kong-style Mandarin. Under his descriptions, the oddly shaped rocks seemed to come alive—there were elephant trunks, ape-like side profiles, lions, and more.

Next, we headed to Kiu Tsui Island, which is among the closest islands to Sai Kung.

Here, there’s a tombolo—a sandbar that connects to another part of the island. During low tide, the path emerges from the water, almost like Moses parting the Red Sea, creating a pretty unique sight. You can actually walk across to the other side during this time. Similar tombolos exist in Penghu and Kinmen, but being in Hong Kong gives it a different feel.

After dropping us off at Kiu Tsui Island, the boatman left. So, we wandered around freely on the island. Once we’d had our fill of exploring, we just waited at the pier according to the departure times listed on the boat operator’s flyer to head back to Sai Kung. Any boat with a green cat flag on the bow (as shown below) would do.

Overall, the Sai Kung waterfront is incredibly relaxing—gazing at the sea, the boats, and the distant islands is a true delight, offering a serene atmosphere that’s uniquely Hong Kong.

The slow-paced rhythm of daily life in the streets and alleys, nostalgic Hong Kong-style shops, quirky and fun boutiques, international restaurants, locals leisurely walking their dogs, elderly women with bent backs dragging baskets of groceries—all combine to create Sai Kung’s one-of-a-kind scenery. Get hungry? Find a seafood joint and feast on live, wriggling catch-of-the-day. Feeling adventurous? Hop on a boat and go island-hopping. Such a Sai Kung—why not come and experience it yourself?

P.S. Beyond Sai Kung, many of Hong Kong’s outlying islands and rural areas are also worth exploring—like Tai O, known as the “Venice of the East,” the laid-back Cheung Chau by the coast, or the charmingly Western-style Stanley on the southeast side of Hong Kong Island. For more, see:

“The Venice of the East” – Tai O Visit this time-frozen fishing village on Hong Kong’s outlying island & experience the charm of life on the water

Cheung Chau, Hong Kong A laid-back, seafood-loving island perfect for unwinding and doing nothing

Stanley, Hong Kong A rare taste of European-style leisure in Hong Kong—spend your afternoon here with sea views and a cold beer

※ Transport to Sai Kung
1. Take Bus 92 from Diamond Hill Station or Choi Hung Station. (Diamond Hill Station is the first stop with more seats, so it’s recommended)
2. Take Bus 96R from Diamond Hill Station or Choi Hung Station, but this service only runs on holidays
3. Take Minibus 101 from Hang Hau MTR Station in Tseung Kwan O
4. Take Green Minibus 1A from Exit C2 at Choi Hung Station
☆ For more transport options, see:Sai Kung Tourism Website

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