Vines climb over the exterior walls！A century-old Japanese rice granary transformed into a café

Text and photos byRight45Degrees

What’s your favorite thing to encounter while traveling? For me, nothing beats stumbling upon an unexpected gem of a shop and spending a magical, cozy moment there. And this “Café Renga,” right in front of Kitakata Station, was a delightful surprise during my trip. The building that houses “Café Renga” was constructed in 1910 (Meiji 43), making it over a hundred years old. Originally a rice granary, it has since been converted into a charming café.

Right45Degrees has always loved shops housed in renovated old buildings back in Taiwan. With an hour to spare before the next train, I didn’t want to miss out on this opportunity and decided to enjoy a cup of coffee right away. [Tabelog] gives this place a rating of 3.54—generally, anything above 3.5 is considered top-tier, so no need to worry about a bad experience. It’s also the highest-rated café in the vicinity of Kitakata Station.


The exterior is covered in ivy, and during late autumn, the mix of red, yellow, and green creates a stunning view. Even though I could only catch a glimpse of the interior, the sight alone filled me with anticipation.


The ivy hanging above the entrance has even spilled over the doorframe. This beautiful vegetation seems quite content being caressed by the aroma of coffee every day.



Stepping inside, the classic Western-style decor revealed a true red-brick warehouse—no wonder it’s called “Renga” (brick). The warm, yellowish light casts a soft glow on the weathered brick walls; the comfy army-green velvet sofas seem to say, “Welcome, and please stay a while!”




Upon entering, I found the elderly owner, nearly 70 years old, reading a newspaper. When he saw us come in, he immediately greeted us with an “Irasshaimase” and offered us cold water and a menu. We simply ordered a Mandheling coffee and then watched him skillfully brew it using a siphon.

As someone who isn’t a coffee aficionado, seeing a siphon coffee maker for the first time felt like Granny Liu visiting the Grand View Garden—purely fascinating. Looking at all the various coffee pots around, I imagined how bustling the place must get on regular days or holidays.


Aside from a variety of coffees, black teas, floral teas, and their cold and hot variations, they also offer snacks like thick toast, sandwiches, cakes, and salads. No wonder there were so many plates and cutlery (laughs). Displayed in this glass cabinet, everything adds to the historic atmosphere.


The tables are also quite unique, with glass cases enclosing unroasted coffee beans underneath.

About 15 minutes later, my Mandheling arrived. Not being a big coffee drinker, I’m not entirely sure what makes a good cup, but this one had none of the acidity I dislike. It wasn’t bitter or overly strong—just smooth and easy to drink. I’d say it was a great cup of coffee.


Under that glass lampshade, which looked like it had stood there for over a century, waiting for the train felt especially elegant and sentimental. That’s probably the greatest joy in traveling...






After leaving Renga, it was only 5:30 PM in deep autumn Kitakata, yet the sky had already turned completely dark. On the quiet, deserted street, where would Right45Degrees head next? (Though really, just back to the hotel to sleep—what a pretentious act...)


Returning once more to Kitakata Station, the red-brick Renga entrance was yet another pleasant surprise. Turns out you don’t have to go all the way to Hokkaido—Kitakata has plenty of these red-brick buildings too.


【Café Renga】

Address:8269-1, Machida, Kitakata City, Fukushima Prefecture
Phone:0241-22-9183
Business Hours:7:00 AM – 6:00 PM, no fixed days off, closed only on January 1st.
 

Right45Degrees’ Japanese Food Travel Journal
Just love going to Japan
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