A Historic Site Transformed into a Hybrid Bookstore in Tainan: Sip Tea, Read Books, and Enjoy a Relaxed Pace of Life

Photos and text byBoge

One afternoon, while cycling through the alleys of Tainan on my own, I stumbled upon this place by chance. Tainan’s alleys are always full of surprises, with many unique shops tucked away in them. That’s why, when driving in Tainan, if you notice vehicles moving slowly and veering right, please be patient and don’t honk— they might be looking for one of those tiny alleys. That day, I found this municipal historic site from the Japanese colonial period: the former dormitory complex of the Tainan Prefectural Agricultural Experiment Station.

Since I knew very little about this historic site, I looked it up online and learned that the Tainan Prefectural Agricultural Experiment Station was established in 1923 at its current location on Lin Sen Road. The road divides the site into eastern and western sections: the eastern part was the office area at the time, while the western part was the dormitory area. The dormitory area was further divided by rank into the station chief’s residence, Type C dormitories, and Type D dormitories. The one I visited that day was a Type D dormitory, slightly smaller than the Type C ones. After restoration by the Tainan Cultural Affairs Bureau, it was handed over to a civilian group for management, and it is currently operated by “Gaillardia Bookstore.”

Located in the eastern district, which is Tainan’s educational and cultural hub, the space is managed as a hybrid bookstore. In addition to selling and reading books, there are also storytime sessions for children by “story moms,” and various art and cultural events are held irregularly.

The interior preserves the layout from the Japanese colonial period. As soon as you step inside, you can smell the faint scent of hinoki wood, and the natural phytoncides help relax your tense shoulders and neck. Pick a book you like, sit cross-legged in the most comfortable position, and spend a leisurely afternoon just like this.

Although it’s so comfortable that Boge didn’t feel the usual sense of untouchability that historic sites often evoke, it is still fundamentally a historic site, so there are some explanatory signs on the walls to help everyone learn more about it.

It’s not officially open yet, but tea tastings are already available, and it’s expected to officially open before mid-August.

The interior offers a wide variety of books, including travel, parenting, cooking, novels, essays, children’s books, and more.

Walking along the corridor feels nostalgic and retro, as if you could step back in time to the Japanese colonial era.

When I returned a few days later, the shop layout had changed again. There were more seats and private rooms, and light meals and drinks were also being test-sold.

On the day of my second visit, many local residents had already brought their children here. It seems that once it officially opens, this will become a great weekend spot for families.

The current operators are locals from Penghu, so the store also sells many specialty products from Penghu.

The row of Japanese-style buildings forms an interesting contrast with the modern high-rises in the background, highlighting the passage of time.

During the restoration of this historic site, a century-old toilet was discovered and preserved. It’s a rare example of such a toilet in all of Taiwan.

If you get tired of reading here, you can also order a refreshing winter melon and fungiform gourd drink, some homemade cookies, or a natural cactus ice, then look out the window to enjoy a lush green view that’s hard to find amid the urban skyline of high-rises.

Homemade Cookies $50 NTD. There are two flavors of homemade cookies: almond crisps and chocolate. Each serving comes with four pieces.

Winter Melon Fungiform Gourd Drink $40 NTD. This is the actual winter melon used to make this tea drink!!! The winter melon fungiform gourd drink isn’t overly sweet and is indeed a great refreshment during the peak of summer.

Cactus Ice $60 NTD
The color of this ice is so vibrant it’s almost mesmerizing. The owner says it’s not dyed with artificial coloring—it’s completely natural!! The first sip might taste especially sour, but the sourness becomes less intense after a few more bites.

To create a space where people can stay longer, the bookstore also provides restrooms. Interestingly, the slippers in the restroom are traditional Japanese geta, making you feel as if you’ve truly traveled back in time to the Japanese colonial era.

The restroom doors also use wooden mortise and tenon joints, with small details that keep the style consistent.

I also ordered a sandwich, but since it was during operations, the price and menu were still being adjusted. You can directly ask the staff for details later.

The salad presentation is beautiful, but it would be even better with a bit more mayonnaise. The utensils could also be slightly adjusted to enhance both aesthetics and sustainability.

I took a few photos of this sandwich while the owners were testing it before service, but I didn’t try it myself. You can check out the actual taste for yourselves~

【Tainan Gaillardia Book Seed】
Address: No. 20, Lane 21, Fudong Street, East District, Tainan City
Phone: 06-236-8733
Business hours: Tuesday to Friday 12:00–21:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00–21:00
Closed: Monday
Facebook page: 天人菊书香种子 (Heavenly Chrysanthemum Book & Seed)

.%Q Boge %Q.
I believe stories have the power to move and influence, so I want to tell stories—and only true ones. Love traveling * love food * love photography * love beauty.