Kinmen egg rolls handmade using traditional wood-fired methods — rich in flavor yet surprisingly crispy and refreshing

Text and photos by /Orange Dog Loves Candy

I only got to know Kinmen this May. Perhaps it’s because it used to be an important military stronghold, but I’ve always been curious about it. The overlap between its past under military rule and its present as an open tourist destination with the Mini Three Links makes the past and present of this land intersect. The architecture on the streets and small local shops still faintly resemble old Taiwan, yet modernization is constantly reshaping it, so you’ll see Starbucks, 50岚, or large shopping malls here, yet traditional markets and simple street scenes coexist alongside.
On my second trip to Kinmen this year, I woke up early and headed to Dongmen Market on Julu Road. I originally wanted to try the highly-rated Shou Ji, but while walking through the market streets, I happened to catch sight of this 【Kinmen Charcoal-Grilled Traditional Egg Rolls】 shop. What caught my attention wasn’t the “traditional taste” but the rare and novel way they were baking the cakes right in front of the store. I couldn’t help but be drawn over to check it out.

The morning market at Kinmen’s traditional market is lively. Aside from various fruits and vegetables, there are also local seafood being sold.

Although the selling method might not meet modern hygiene standards, it’s just the way it’s always been — simple and unpretentious.

The lively calls of vendors mixed with the unique scents of fish, meat, and vegetables in a traditional market felt quite nostalgic to me. Following the smell of burning wood toward the Qiu Lianggong Mother's Chastity Archway nearby, I found this 【Kinmen Charcoal-Grilled Traditional Egg Rolls】 shop not far away. The owner and his wife were sitting right at the front of the store.

The old and weathered storefront was made attractive by a wooden enclosure to the right front — a workspace where the clanging sound of iron plates could be heard.

I saw the sun-tanned owner, wearing a singlet, calmly flipping five iron plates under the blazing sun.

The wood-fired stove in front was blazing hot. He skillfully flipped the batter, spread it on the iron plates, then baked and flipped them again.

Nowadays, you hardly see anyone cooking with firewood at home, let alone using it to bake egg rolls. And despite the scorching heat, there wasn’t even a sunshade. Turns out, what they’re selling are traditional, old-school egg rolls made using ancient wood-fired techniques.

Being from Tainan, I’ve seen roasted yam cakes, traditional old-style pancakes, and charcoal-grilled toast, but this was my first time seeing traditional egg rolls being grilled like this. After baking, they’re handed over to his wife to roll up using a stick — and the pile of finished egg rolls piles up quickly.

They look completely different from the Hsi Lai Lai egg rolls we used to eat as kids or the handmade egg rolls commonly seen in night markets nowadays. It’s said this recipe has been passed down to the third generation over sixty years. They sell in the morning market and take a break in the afternoon, but often reopen later in the day.

But if you want to see the owner grilling the cakes right outside the store, you’ll have to come during the morning market hours. They make enough for the day all at once. Inside the store, they sell two things: 【grilled flatbread and egg rolls】. Kinmen’s grilled flatbread is also a local specialty worth trying — every bite carries a very authentic veteran flavor.

The egg rolls are even more affordable — small packs for NT$40, large packs for NT$60. No need for vacuum packaging or anything — just a simple plastic bag with a rubber band. They sell both rolled-up egg rolls and also flat sheets that aren’t rolled, though it depends on what’s available at the store. Since I was waiting for Shou Ji and had some time to kill, I figured I’d buy a pack to try.

【Wood-Fired Egg Rolls / Small pack 40 NT$ / Large pack 60 NT$】
Actually, I had just posted a photo of this shop on Facebook when several netizens started leaving positive comments. The egg roll wrappers were thinner than I expected, but the small pack actually had more than I thought. However, they were as thin and crispy as a pancake. The egg rolls themselves weren’t overly sweet — the initial bite gives off a light eggy aroma, followed by a faint sweetness after chewing.

It wasn’t greasy at all and was surprisingly crispy and refreshing. But the downside of freshly baked goods is how easily they can get damp if left exposed to air too long. Since there was no vacuum packaging, I brought the leftovers back to the hotel in the evening and was shocked to find they were just as crispy as they were in the daytime. A friend told me that when they brought some back to Taiwan, even after two or three days, they were still just as crisp. The only downside is that because they’re so thin, I wanted to buy several packs as souvenirs to bring back to Taiwan, but I was worried they’d get crushed, so I held back...

In this era where everything is about being new, fast, and convenient, it’s truly precious to find people who are willing to stick to tradition step by step. Sure, you could mass-produce these with machines quickly, but you’d lose the historical value the egg rolls represent — and of course, you’d lose the meaning of heritage. I really admire the owner for carrying on this craft. These days, everyone’s crazy about so-called “traditional snacks,” mostly drawn to the vague ‘vibe.’ But behind that traditional taste is the hard work, sweat, and dedication of preserving a family legacy. It’s not an easy job, but you can definitely taste the solid, authentic wood-fired technique in the texture of the egg rolls. If you’re ever around Julu Road Market in Kinmen, be sure to stop by and try this rare traditional taste.

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◎ Shop Intro: [Kinmen Wood-Fired Traditional Egg Rolls | Kincheng District]
◎ Address: No. 42, Section 1, Julu Road, Kincheng District, Kinmen County
◎ Phone: 082-328890
◎ Business Hours: 7:00 AM – 12:00 PM (May sell in the afternoon, but exact time uncertain)
◎ Consumer Tip: Store closure days are uncertain, but egg rolls are likely only baked in the morning
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