Lan Fong Yuen, a traditional Hong Kong dai pai dong — the birthplace of smooth, rich silk stocking milk tea

Text & Photos /Xiao Sheng

Lan Fong Yuen, a long-standing Hong Kong dai pai dong and the birthplace of the famous Hong Kong beverage silk stocking milk tea. When in Central, Hong Kong, you must visit this spot to soak in the nostalgic charm of an old-school local eatery and experience the life of Hong Kong people.

Established in 1952, Lan Fong Yuen’s exterior makes it easy to see that it originally operated as a dai pai dong. Despite having been around for over sixty years and having a few branches across Hong Kong, its original store on Gage Street remains true to its roots and is one of the few remaining traditional dai pai dongs. Without doing a bit of research beforehand, you’d never guess that such an unassuming shop has such a storied history. The most convenient way to reach Lan Fong Yuen’s main branch is to take the MTR to Central Station and walk there.

Both outside and inside the dai pai dong, there are many photos with celebrities. As for the menu, although there are quite a few items that can be overwhelming to look at, the actual selection at Lan Fong Yuen is relatively limited. Coming alone, I couldn’t eat too much anyway, so I just ordered the silk stocking milk tea and a classic kaya French toast.

As soon as I stepped into Lan Fong Yuen, I was taken aback by the scene — the cramped space was packed with people. With limited seating, it was inevitable that customers would share tables. The level of crowding at Lan Fong Yuen might be the most intense I’ve experienced in Hong Kong, but that’s what gives it the authentic feel of a traditional dai pai dong.

Silk Stocking Milk Tea (HKD 19): First up was this renowned silk stocking milk tea. But the price is nearly 80 Taiwanese dollars, and it has gone up quite a bit compared to a few years ago. The tea is made from Ceylon black tea, filtered through a cotton sock — which not only removes tea leaves but also gives the milk tea a smoother texture. Then, evaporated milk and sugar are added to create this rich and fragrant drink. However, the tea flavor is quite strong, and while the sweetness level is moderate and not overly cloying, the milk flavor is somewhat weak. It’s still a decent drink, but after having tried several versions of silk stocking milk tea, I didn’t find Lan Fong Yuen’s particularly unique.

Classic Kaya French Toast (HKD 20): This kaya French toast feels similar to the French toast from Yee Shun Dairy Company, but like a classic French toast, the bread is stuffed with a kaya mixture made of coconut, butter, eggs, and sugar — probably the same kaya I’ve had in Singapore and Malaysia, even the pronunciation is similar. It’s then topped with butter and drizzled with honey — the indulgence level is off the charts.

However, the bread itself in the French toast is too soft and becomes almost mushy after frying, lacking any real texture. While the kaya has a rich coconut aroma and the taste isn’t bad, overall it’s just too sweet. When I tried the French toast at Yee Shun the next day, I found it much better. As someone who enjoys visiting old-school shops, I had a nice experience at Lan Fong Yuen, the birthplace of silk stocking milk tea. The traditional dai pai dong vibe still gives off a very Hong Kong feel. But in terms of their signature silk stocking milk tea and kaya French toast, they didn’t really win me over, which is a bit of a shame.

Lan Fong Yuen (Main Branch)
Address: 2 Gage Street, Central, Hong Kong
Phone: +852 2850-8683
Business Hours: 07:30–18:00 (Monday to Friday)
07:30–19:30 (Saturday)

Xiao Sheng’s Wandering Journey
Every journey, every trip is about seeking something — though I’m not always sure what that something is — but in the end, what you gain often exceeds your expectations. And so, my wandering journey will continue endlessly.