When it comes to the charm of Kyushu in Japan, you may have already heard of the famous hot spring town of Yufuin. This area boasts abundant hot springs with colorless, transparent water that feels smooth on the skin, making it particularly popular among women. From the open-air baths and guest rooms of local inns, you can gaze at Mount Yufu in the distance. During the transition from autumn to early winter, the beauty of Kinrin Lake, shrouded in morning mist, is a unique sight that attracts numerous domestic and international tourists.
Located in the central part of Oita Prefecture, Yufuin is surrounded by mountains and owes its abundant hot springs to Mount Yufu, ranking third in Japan in terms of spring yield. It is said that during the Taisho and Showa periods, Yufuin was renowned as a villa destination. Through continuous development and a relentless pursuit of hot spring excellence, it has now grown into a hot spring resort that can rival Karuizawa in the east. With such breathtaking scenery, how can you best experience it without missing out?
Today, we’ll introduce you to one of JR Kyushu’s popular sightseeing trains—the Yufuin no Mori. A unique sightseeing “dream train” that runs from Hakata to Yufuin.
A dreamlike journey, a different way to travel
The limited express Yufuin no Mori connects the bustling city of Hakata with Beppu, a hot spring resort in Kyushu, in approximately two and a half hours. Its emerald green exterior is quirky and charming, gliding through forested plateaus like a flying fairy. The warm wooden interior gives off a classic, natural vibe. As the train passes through the serene and quaint town of Yufuin, its purity, uniqueness, and warmth are vividly displayed, offering a complete idyllic scene. The beautiful natural scenery along the route harmonizes beautifully with the green train, creating an exceptionally peaceful atmosphere. From the moment you step onto the Yufuin no Mori, your dreamy and relaxing journey begins.
The Yufuin no Mori limited express first began service on March 11, 1989, and has been running for 16 years. Throughout the year, two types of trains alternate, with different interiors and carriage structures. Therefore, even when riding the Yufuin no Mori, you might have two completely different experiences. All carriages are reserved seats, so you need to book in advance. Every detail inside the train reflects the designer’s care. Compared to many other JR Kyushu sightseeing trains, the Yufuin no Mori is also highly popular. Statistics show that 70% of daily passengers are foreign tourists. Even on weekdays, if you don’t book in advance, it’s hard to get a ticket on the day of travel, which speaks volumes about its popularity.
The seats on the Yufuin no Mori are high-level, so there are a few small steps at the doors. This design offers a wider view when admiring the scenery outside the window. Since it’s a train from the city to a sightseeing destination, the carriages thoughtfully include shelves for large luggage. Even if you’re traveling with baggage, you won’t feel any inconvenience. Occasionally, when traveling with friends, you can reserve a compartment seat with a table. Even if you’re traveling alone, the free Wi-Fi provided in the carriage ensures you won’t feel lonely.
In addition to its unique interior, the scenery outside the windows is another highlight of the Yufuin no Mori. The entire train is surrounded by mountains and forests. At times, you’ll gaze at rolling mountain ranges, and at other times, you’ll admire cascading waterfalls. Wherever the train goes, the beautiful scenery is truly refreshing.
To provide passengers with more thoughtful and comfortable service, the carriage also features a small shop. Here, you can buy Japanese snacks and drinks, as well as alcoholic beverages, cakes, and other delicacies. In addition, you can purchase special souvenirs of the Yufuin no Mori. Moreover, the carriage offers carefully prepared bento boxes made with local ingredients, as well as soybean ice cream from Yufuin’s popular tofu restaurant “Yufuin Ichinoza.” While on board, friendly train attendants will offer accessories like conductor hats and commemorative badges. Dressing up and taking a commemorative photo in the carriage is a great way to preserve precious memories of your wonderful trip.
A dreamlike wait, a different experience
Yufuin Station is also one of the most important stops for the Yufuin no Mori train. A corner of Yufuin Station features a naturally flowing foot bath. To kill time while waiting for the train, take off your shoes and socks, sit in the foot bath, and enjoy the warmth of the hot spring to relieve travel fatigue. It costs just 160 yen per person. With Zen-like bamboo screens and steaming foot baths, this heartwarming little station straight out of a manga is nothing short of dreamlike.
A dreamlike mood, a different vibe
After getting off at Yufuin Station, you can stroll around the town. There are no buses here, so the most convenient mode of transport is the three-wheeled rickshaw. Handsome young Japanese men stand by the roadside, calling out to attract tourists and offering rides around Yufuin. The town’s scenic spots aren’t large, and if you just want to take a leisurely walk, it’s only about a 30-minute walk from the station to the farthest attraction, Kinrin Lake. The streets are lined with cozy cafes, Yufuin souvenirs, cute Japanese knick-knacks, and local delicacies, strongly sparking your shopping desires. The romantic and charming rural scenery keeps tens of thousands of tourists enchanted.
A dreamlike view, a different landscape
When it comes to the most famous attraction in Yufuin, it’s none other than Kinrin Lake.
Kinrin Lake is located in the busiest area of Yufuin. It is said that in 1884 (Meiji 17), Confucian scholar Mori Kousou, while walking by the lake, noticed the golden reflections of fish scales created by sunlight on the water, inspiring him to name it.
Kinrin Lake is famous for its dreamy scenery of morning mist in the early winter mornings. It is also one of the representative sights of Yufuin. This small lake, with a circumference of about 400 meters, has hot spring water gushing from its western side and clear groundwater from its eastern side, forming an unusual lake where warm and cool waters coexist. Hot springs continue to emerge from the lake bottom to this day. The temperature difference between the hot springs and clear water causes thick mist to form on the surface, creating a hazy and dreamlike scene. Walking along the lakeside and viewing the ever-changing reflections from different angles, with the mountains of Mount Yufu surrounding the distance, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the lake and mountains. At dusk, the lake surface sparkles as if covered with golden fish scales under the setting sun, offering the most captivating views. When there’s no wind or waves, the lake is as calm as glass, reflecting the continuous Mount Yufu, a picturesque beauty beyond compare.
The torii gate standing in the lake was moved here from Fumonji Temple under the Shinto-Buddhist separation order of the Meiji era. The torii gate standing in the morning mist makes Kinrin Lake appear even more sacred.
Information about the Yufuin no Mori train:
1. About seating: All seats are reserved, and the entire train is non-smoking. It is recommended to book in advance.
2. About train schedules: Throughout the year, two types of trains operate. The 1st, 2nd, 5th, and 6th trains, which have five carriages, run between Hakata and Yufuin, making two round trips daily. The 3rd and 4th trains, which have four carriages, run between Hakata, Yufuin, Oita, and Beppu, making one round trip daily. A total of three runs are operated each day.
3. About fares: The fare for the Hakata-Yufuin section is about 4,550 yen. The JR Kyushu Rail Pass can be used to ride the Yufuin no Mori, but seats must be reserved in advance. There are also JR Kyushu Yufuin no Mori JR Limited Express Two-Person Tickets, as well as round-trip tickets from various stations to Yufuin (valid for five days) available for purchase.
4. Other: Due to the high-level structure of the Yufuin no Mori, there are stairs at the doors. Additionally, the aisles inside the carriages are relatively narrow (550 mm), and wheelchairs may not be able to pass through. If you require a wheelchair, please consult the staff in advance.
Besides the Yufuin no Mori, JR Kyushu also operates various sightseeing trains on different routes, each with its own unique style. There’s the “Aso Boy!” loved by both adults and children, the “Kyushu Odan Tokkyu” that takes you through endless scenic wonders, the nostalgic “SL Hitoyoshi” that feels like a journey back in time, and the fairytale-like “Ibusuki no Tamatebako” that heads to the sand steam resort. Riding any JR Kyushu train is a brand-new travel experience. Once you try it, you won’t be able to resist the urge to explore new ways of travel.
Friendly reminder:
To explore Kyushu, Japan, it’s recommended to purchase the JR Train Pass—the JR Kyushu Rail Pass. The JR Kyushu Railway connects major cities in the Kyushu region and is an essential and efficient mode of transport for experiencing Kyushu. The JR Kyushu Rail Pass comes in 3-day and 5-day versions, with options for the northern Kyushu region or the entire Kyushu region. The pass allows unlimited rides on all JR Kyushu trains (excluding the Hakata-Kokura Shinkansen section).
The JR Kyushu Rail Pass is only available for purchase by foreign travelers with short-term stay visas. Generally, you can first buy an “exchange voucher” at a travel agency in China, then exchange it for the JR Kyushu Rail Pass at a designated location in Kyushu with your voucher and passport. Alternatively, after arriving in Japan, you can also purchase the JR Kyushu Rail Pass directly with your passport. When exchanging or purchasing the pass in Japan, you need to reserve a reserved seat at the station counter.