Discovering the Heart of the Long White Cloud: Writer Shu Qiao Writes About the Beautiful Memories Between People and Food

The capital of New Zealand, Wellington, along with Nelson and the Marlborough region, lie at the geographical heart of the country and are the essence of New Zealand’s culture, arts, food, and wine, thus earning the title “Heart of the Long White Cloud.” Tourism New Zealand invited writer, food expert, and founder of Yueshi China, Shu Qiao, to visit the “Heart of the Long White Cloud,” where she explored the gifts of nature in Marlborough and witnessed the beautiful cycle between food and nature; in Wellington, she followed the rhythm of the city and felt the perfect interaction between food, people, and the urban landscape.

Marlborough: Gifts of Nature, a Wonderful Cycle

In Marlborough, every element of nature—water, sunlight, and land—not only forms the region’s magnificent scenery but also provides an abundance of ingredients. The people of New Zealand understand how to live in harmony with nature, tapping into the endless possibilities of local produce while expressing gratitude and coexisting peacefully with the environment.

Taking a cruise on the Tarquin Luxury Cruises through the Marlborough Sounds is one of the most perfect ways to immerse yourself in these waters, whether you’re resting by the porthole or gazing out from the deck. Ben Godsiff, Operations Manager of Marlborough Tourism, had prepared fresh green-lipped mussels for Shu Qiao. With just a simple preparation and a squeeze of lemon, the plump and juicy natural delicacy can be enjoyed. There’s a local saying that after eating, the mussel shells are thrown back into the sea to continue nourishing the place that gave them life. Taken from the sea, returned to the sea—the virtuous cycle between food and ecology has begun.

In the crystal-clear blue waters of the Marlborough Sounds, schools of king salmon also thrive. As the Tarquin Luxury Cruises sails onward, it takes Shu Qiao to the New Zealand King Salmon Farm. The deep waters of the Marlborough Sounds are pristine and consistently cool, with salinity levels that fluctuate with the tides, resulting in king salmon that not only have a fuller body than regular salmon but also boast a stunningly bright silver skin, vibrant orange marbled flesh, and a tender texture that melts perfectly on the tongue.

The ?ra King Salmon is the premium variety of king salmon and a star ingredient in Michelin-starred restaurants. Mark Preece, General Manager of the New Zealand King Salmon Farm, caught a fresh ?ra King Salmon for Shu Qiao. When sliced open, the fish reveals an enticing sheen from the perfect balance of flesh and fat. With minimal seasoning, the taste of the ocean fills the mouth: the briny freshness of seawater, the subtle sweetness of minerals, and the creamy richness of fish oil gradually building on the palate, making each bite feel like an orchestral symphony from an underwater kingdom. Mark, who is also a marine scientist, told Shu Qiao that they use sustainable and scientific farming methods, ensuring not only the healthy growth of the king salmon but also the good maintenance of the marine ecosystem.

In Marlborough, wine is another important hallmark. Shu Qiao hopped aboard a vintage convertible with Highlight Wine Tours, where the air was filled with the intoxicating aroma of grapes and the eyes were greeted by endless rows of grapevines, kicking off a vineyard tour amid picturesque scenery.

Brancott Estate is one of the oldest wineries in Marlborough. In 1975, it planted the first Sauvignon Blanc vines here, ushering in a new chapter for New Zealand wine. Patrick Materman, Brancott Estate’s Chief Winemaker with over 20 years of experience, took Shu Qiao through the vineyards, picking a few grapes for her to taste. “Our winery produces a unique Sauvignon Gris grape. The wine made from it has the herbal notes of Sauvignon Blanc but also the delightful spiciness of Pinot Gris.” As they chatted, Shu Qiao and Patrick arrived at the tasting room, where a glass of Sauvignon Blanc was poured. Gently swirling the glass, the aroma of grass and fruit wafted through the air; a sip revealed the burst of gooseberry alongside the bold scent of tropical fruits.

The brilliant midsummer afternoon sun in Marlborough shone on the nearby grape trellises, with each grape eagerly absorbing the nutrients of nature, waiting for the harvest moment to condense the sunlight of Marlborough into every drop of wine. As Patrick said, “If you treat the land well, the land will give you a generous return.”

As dusk fell, Shu Qiao’s vintage convertible arrived at The Marlborough Lodge, a boutique resort. On the path leading to the main house, sunlight filtered through the tall trees on either side, and birdsong filled the air. The main house of The Marlborough Lodge is a Victorian building originally constructed in 1901. Renovated in 2016, it reopened as a boutique hotel with a low-key yet refined and elegant style. The resort’s 10 suites are graceful, luxurious, fresh, modern, softly toned, and uniquely detailed.

However, what fascinated Shu Qiao the most was the stunning courtyard within the boutique hotel. Chef Jason Brown and Shu Qiao strolled through it, passing lavender fields before arriving at a vast and tranquil lake. The overhanging tree branches by the water added a touch of serenity to the scene, while the occasional wildlife on the nearby lawns brought a delightful touch of wilderness to the landscape. The most special feature of the courtyard is Chef Jason’s secret ingredient garden, where various herbs, flowers, and ingredients are grown. Jason told Shu Qiao that dinner would hold even more surprises for her.

As night fell and the restaurant lights came on, dinner was ready. Each dish on the table seemed to reflect the secret garden—the various herbs from the garden provided aroma, enhanced flavor, and added decoration, blending the chef’s creativity and thoughtfulness in a delightful way. Ingredients picked directly from the estate were carefully prepared, and the fruits from the garden were turned into juices. “Natural and fresh” is the best praise for every bite of cuisine here. A taste of world-class dining.

Only at this moment did Shu Qiao realize that Chef Jason had organically integrated the complete food chain into his dishes. Plants from roots to leaves, animals from feed to meat—all were cooked in harmony with nature, creating a uniquely flavorful cuisine. From land to table, it is also a wonderful cycle.

In Marlborough, nature generously provides everything the people need, and the people achieve a virtuous cycle between food and ecology, creating a true dining experience in harmony with nature.

Wellington: The Rhythm of the City, a Perfect Interaction

Every city has its own unique rhythm, and Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, has cultivated the country’s distinctive character through its own food culture. Wellington is the city with the most dining options per capita, where food is not just sustenance—it has long permeated the soul of the city, influencing every aspect of people’s lives.

The choice of ingredients is the first consideration for New Zealanders when it comes to food. Moore Wilson’s, a family-run supermarket that has been operating since 1918, adheres to the philosophy of “providing Wellingtonians with the freshest ingredients every day,” offering the freshest seasonal produce and tracing the origin of every item. The shelves are filled with a dazzling array of fresh ingredients. Sales manager Amanda Thompson picked up a bright green cabbage and said, “Our ingredients come from designated farmers. This cabbage is from Woodhaven.” She pointed to a large photo on the wall, “That’s our supplier, John Clarke.”

In the eyes of New Zealanders, the essence of food is “following nature,” which is why organic food is highly regarded, and seasonal food evokes a sense of being “one with nature.” “Organic” is not just a label for food but a lifestyle for every New Zealander.

Of course, ingredient choices are not limited to Moore Wilson’s. Every corner of Wellington offers Shu Qiao a different culinary surprise. Not far from the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, the Wellington Harbourside Market opens promptly every weekend morning. Friendly fishermen recommend freshly caught seafood, and hospitable vendors invite customers to sample their delicacies. Colorful fresh produce adds a vibrant splash of color to the market, while steaming freshly baked bread and aromatic coffee fill the air with a sense of happiness. Traditional Māori food, Spanish paella, and even Shanghai pork and cabbage dumplings can be found here. Cuisines from around the world blend together, and people from all walks of life find ways to connect through food. Here, food has become the perfect vehicle for cultural coexistence.

Around the next corner, Hannah’s Laneway offers a variety of creatively unique food options. In this small food district developed from an old shoe factory, each shop is almost interconnected. Stepping into Golding’s Free Dive craft beer bar, Shu Qiao met Beth Brash, who had been waiting for her. Beth is a Wellington foodie and a well-known “beer queen.” Golding’s Free Dive not only sells craft beers from various breweries but also allows customers to order pizza from the neighboring Pizza Pomodoro. They even sell Fix and Fogg peanut butter, Six Barrel Soda Co sodas, and chocolates from the Wellington Chocolate Factory. The boundaries between shops seem intentionally blurred in Hannah’s Laneway, as food gives this neighborhood an extraordinary magic of integration.

The rhythm of the city gives food a unique vitality. Food not only changes the daily lives of urban dwellers but also shapes the distinct life of the city. The three interact in perfect harmony.

The Heart of the Long White Cloud: The Harmonious Relationship Between People and Food

Whether it’s the scenic Marlborough or the uniquely styled Wellington, the harmonious relationship between people and food remains unchanged. Recalling the most unforgettable moments of the journey, one must mention the experience at Lochmara Lodge with culinary tycoon Al Brown. Known throughout New Zealand, this celebrity chef runs multiple restaurants, hosts TV shows, and is also a renowned food writer.

To reach Lochmara Lodge, one takes a 15-minute water taxi from Picton. From the boat, one can see the lush trees on the island, with the resort nestled among the dense foliage, barely visible. Upon disembarking, Shu Qiao was immediately drawn to the fearless wildlife. New Zealand parakeets (Kakariki) fluttered their wings and chirped happily. The resort is connected to a private stretch of sea, where keepers feed the fish at scheduled times. Whenever feed is scattered into the water, schools of stingrays gather, creating a lively scene.

On this paradise-like island, people can get as close to nature as possible, conversing with the mountains and rivers and interacting with animals. All of this inspired the two food masters, Shu Qiao and Al Brown, to exchange culinary skills in the open-air kitchen amidst the landscape. They chose fresh New Zealand lobster and blacklip abalone as the main ingredients. Al Brown adhered to Western cooking principles, using primitive and natural methods to preserve the original flavors of the ingredients, while Shu Qiao employed Chinese cooking techniques, showcasing the rich and oily characteristics of Shanghainese cuisine to the fullest. Their different cooking styles collided, creating distinctive and memorable culinary experiences.

As Al Brown said, “Food, as a medium, can create beautiful moments. When the right people and place come together, the food experience becomes even more delightful. In New Zealand, you’re sure to encounter the most beautiful scenery and taste the freshest locally produced food. For me, that’s the perfect New Zealand experience.”

Nature has bestowed New Zealand with majestic mountains and rivers, as well as an endless supply of delicious ingredients. New Zealanders have used food as a medium to shape the country’s unique character. Following in Shu Qiao’s footsteps, embark on a journey to discover the “Heart of the Long White Cloud,” where you’ll encounter the purity of nature, awaken your taste buds, meet hospitable locals, and hear the stories behind the food.

Background Information on Travel Destinations:

Wellington

Known as the “coolest little capital in the world,” Wellington boasts a reputation for art and culture. Though compact in size, its city center is packed with a wealth of attractions and activities. Boasting a higher ratio of bars and restaurants per capita than New York, Wellington is famed for its excellent taste—step out and immerse yourself in the city’s culinary delights.

Moore Wilson's Family MarketTrue to its concept of high-quality fresh food ingredients, it carefully selects local produce, offering delightful surprises for both long-time residents and first-time visitors.
For more details, see: https://moorewilsons.co.nz/

Wellington Harbourside MarketThe oldest and most vibrant market in Wellington, featuring fresh seafood and a variety of tempting snacks. The market opens every Sunday morning next to the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa.
For more details, see: http://www.harboursidemarket.co.nz/

Hannah's LanewayLocated in downtown Wellington, it has become a trendy landmark. With artsy street graffiti and unique specialty shops, strolling here lets you savor creative bites while experiencing the close-knit Kiwi community.
For more details, see: https://www.wellingtonnz.com/discover/things-to-do/eat-and-drink/could-this-be-the-worlds-tastiest-laneway/

Wellington Chocolate FactorySituated in Hannah's Laneway, the shop sells creatively crafted chocolates with a variety of flavor combinations that not only let visitors savor the wonders of chocolate but also open the door to a new chocolate experience.
For more details, see: http://www.wcf.co.nz/

Marlborough

Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest grape-growing and winemaking region, producing world-class Sauvignon Blanc. The stunning Marlborough Sounds also offer a perfect escape into nature. Whether on a vintage car wine tour or a sailing adventure, the abundant sunshine and pleasant weather make it a year-round destination to explore Marlborough’s diverse beauty.

Tarquin Luxury CruisesOffers tailor-made sailing routes—choose from short trips gliding past the Marlborough Sounds or multi-night journeys for deeper exploration of nature’s secrets.
For more details, see: http://www.tarquincruises.co.nz/

New Zealand King Salmon FarmWith seven farming locations in the Marlborough Sounds, it raises the premium ?ra King Salmon. To try this delicacy, head to Arbour Restaurant, named the Best Restaurant in Marlborough in 2017—you won’t be disappointed.
For more details, see: https://www.arbour.co.nz/

Highlight Wine ToursA new wine journey awaits wine enthusiasts. Based on your preferences, the experience can be customized, taking you through Marlborough’s vineyards in a vintage 1960s convertible, soaking in the charm of wine country.
For more details, see: https://www.highlightwinetours.co.nz/

Brancott EstateOne of the oldest wineries in Marlborough, Brancott Estate is located in Blenheim and just an hour’s flight from Auckland, making it easily accessible. Its world-renowned Sauvignon Blanc attracts wine lovers from around the globe.
For more details, see: http://www.brancottestate.com/

The Marlborough LodgeNestled in the heart of Marlborough’s wine region, it spans 16 hectares and features 10 modern suites and a luxurious private restaurant. With lush green spaces, a cozy bar, and a restaurant to satisfy your palate, it offers a delightful retreat.
For more details, see: http://www.themarlboroughlodge.co.nz/

Lochmara LodgeIt offers not only one-day tour routes but also multi-day accommodation options for a relaxing and natural holiday. It can be reached in about 15 minutes by water taxi from Picton, the main town in the Marlborough Sounds.
 For more details, please visit: http://www.lochmara.co.nz/