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Many Tales of an Ancient City – A Travelogue of Chengde

Published: 2026-11-08 👁 102 views
Last updated 2026-11-08 — Losing myself in the embrace of nature, listening to birdsong in the woods and breathing in the fragrance of blooming flowers. With my backpack on, I set off to experience a historic city known as the “Pearl Beyond the Great Wall,” a place that witnessed the golden age of the Qing Dynasty – Chengde.

I love to travel. Not only does it help me unwind from the stresses of daily work and release built-up pressure, but it also offers a deep sense of freedom and relaxation that soothes the soul. Losing myself in the embrace of nature, listening to birdsong in the woods and breathing in the fragrance of blooming flowers. It was because of this fondness and passion that I chose, during the three-day Dragon Boat Festival holiday, to pack my backpack and explore a historic city known as the “Pearl Beyond the Great Wall,” a place that witnessed the golden age of the Qing Dynasty – Chengde.

Perhaps too eager, I hurried to Beijing’s Liuliqiao Bus Station right after work with my luggage. Buses to Chengde can be boarded from either Sihui or Liuliqiao Bus Station. The ticket costs 85 yuan, and the journey takes about three hours. By the time I arrived in Chengde, it was already dark. Fortunately, I had booked a room in advance online at a Home Inn near the Mountain Resort (a business king-size room for 258 yuan). After notifying the hotel, I took a taxi for 22 yuan (flag-down fare of 7 yuan, including 1 yuan fuel surcharge) and checked in smoothly that evening.

Main Attractions Itinerary:

May 28: Mountain Resort – “The Kangxi Grand Ceremony”

May 29: Puning Temple – Qingchuifeng Peak

May 30: Putuo Zongcheng Temple – Return to Beijing

May 28th marked the first day of the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. The quiet ancient city that was still just the night before suddenly burst into life with bustling crowds and traffic. To avoid the tourist rush, I arrived at my first destination on the itinerary by 8:00 am: the Mountain Resort.

Address: Lizhengmen Street, Chengde City

Ticket Price: 145 yuan (peak season)   90 yuan (off-season)   Half price for students

Opening Hours: 8:00–17:30

Public Transport: Buses 6, 7, 10, 26, 118 – get off at Mountain Resort Station

From afar, I could see the majestic palace gate. The Mountain Resort is the most iconic attraction in Chengde. Locals often refer to it simply as the “Summer Palace.” Built in 1703, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a national 5A-level scenic spot. During the reigns of Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, they spent about half the year in Chengde, handling many major political, military, ethnic, and diplomatic affairs here. As a result, the Mountain Resort became the secondary capital and second political center outside of Beijing.

The resort is mainly divided into several sections: the Palace Area, Lake Area, Mountain Area, and Plains Area, with pavilions and gardens interspersed among the landscapes. Upon entering, you’re greeted by the Palace Area, which bears some resemblance to the Forbidden City. It also houses a “Mountain Resort Museum” showcasing the daily lives of Qing emperors during their stays at the resort.

Beyond the Palace Area lies the Lake Area. With rippling blue waters stretching to the horizon, the lake is crisscrossed with wooden bridges and stone paths, and there are even large dragon boats available for rides, powered by oars, along with many family-friendly amusement facilities.

Here, I must mention the “Yanyu Lou” (Smoke and Rain Tower). This was the filming location for the “Shufangzhai” (Fragrant Chamber Studio) in the TV series “Princess Huanzhu.” Seeing it instantly brought back memories of the scene where Xiao Yanzi teaches Jin Suo how to wield the nine-section whip. The Lake Area pretty much ends around Yanyu Lou, and the subsequent Mountain Area can be accessed by sightseeing bus. Ticket: 50 yuan per person.

The Mountain Area mainly consists of three scenic spots: Simian Yunshan (Clouds Around Four Sides), Erma Dao (Second Horse Path), and Qingfeng Lvyu (Green Maple and Blue Isle). From Simian Yunshan, you can overlook the entire Chengde urban area, as well as see Qingchuifeng Peak, the foremost of China’s Ten Famous Mountains, and the Toad Stone.

At Erma Dao, you can give yourself the chance to feel as if you’ve arrived in Lhasa. This is the Putuo Zongcheng Temple in Chengde, also known as the “Little Potala Palace.” Qingfeng Lvyu is said to be the place where Emperor Kangxi admired maple leaves and sunset clouds, though some say it was also used as a cold palace. No bus changes are allowed en route; each spot gets about 10 minutes—just enough for photos. The whole ride takes about an hour.

A friendly tip: if you don’t hire a guide for the Mountain Resort, you can always eavesdrop on other guided tours. It’s a great way to learn more and discover the hidden gems of the resort. Some of the best spots are a bit off the beaten path, and having a guide—or simply listening in—can ensure you don’t miss them.

In this world, nothing should be cherished more than beautiful scenery and delicious food. After hours exploring the resort, what you need most is a hearty meal to recharge. I recommend “Bate Lamb Spine Hotpot” right across from the resort. Dining is underground, with Mongolian yurts and private rooms. Though the ambiance is a bit dim, the food is excellent. Our bill for two was 136 yuan, which is great value considering the location. Nearby, you can also try the renowned “Da Qinghua” restaurant in Chengde—adventurers should definitely give it a try.

Second Stop: “The Kangxi Grand Ceremony”

Address: Ding Sheng Royal Theatre, Yuanbao Mountain Scenic Area, Shuangluan District, Chengde

Ticket Price: Zone A 288 yuan, Zone B 258 yuan, Zone C 198 yuan, VIP prices vary (call for details)

Opening Hours: Check-in at 19:00, performance starts at 20:00

Transportation: Buses 5 and 15 to Yuanbao Mountain Station; taxi from downtown costs about 30 yuan, 15-minute ride.

This was the most memorable and worthwhile experience of my trip. Perhaps only after seeing this performance can you truly understand what “breathtaking” means.

“The Kangxi Grand Ceremony” is the world’s first and China’s only large-scale nighttime live-action performance with a royal culture theme. The show integrates the landscape of Yuanbao Mountain—one of Chengde’s famous peaks—with the historical and cultural legacy of the prosperous Kangxi and Qianlong eras of the Qing Dynasty, showcasing the grandeur and humanistic spirit of the Qing Dynasty during Emperor Kangxi’s golden age. Directed by Mei Shuaiyuan, the founder of China’s live-action performance scene, and with advisors like Yu Dan and Ji Lianhai, the creative team alone is enough to draw attention.

Upon entering the venue, you’ll see a vast parking lot filled with vehicles from all over the country. The sea of people only heightened my anticipation for the show. Further in, you’ll find the ticket checkpoint, where staff dressed in Qing-style costumes add a unique touch. Tickets can be collected conveniently via self-service machines using QR codes.

Inside, the service facilities are comprehensive, with various snacks, drinks, and rest areas. The theater is an open-air platform backed by Yuanbao Mountain, reportedly covering 2,000 square meters. The overall stage design is visually spectacular. Staff guidance is excellent, and there’s a coat rental area behind the audience seats. A friendly reminder: due to the low outdoor temperatures in the mountainous area, visitors may want to bring their own warm clothing or rent a military-style coat on-site. Coats rent for 20 yuan each, with a 100-yuan deposit refunded upon return.

Once the performance begins, around a hundred warhorses charge out in the scene of Emperor Kangxi’s Mulan hunting expedition, creating a majestic and truly spectacular atmosphere. The dazzling stage lighting, grand scale of the production, and meticulously arranged storyline unfold with rhythm and layers—switching seamlessly between near and far, high and low, mountain and water landscapes, all cleverly and appropriately integrated into the show.

"Prologue: The Chase"

"Act I: Heaven’s Question"

"Act II: Heavenly Harmony"

Here’s a mention of a highlight in the performance. The “glasses-free 3D” effect in "Act III: Destiny" left the audience astonished. As the entire theater transformed from a scattering of lights into a starry cosmos, spectators expressed their awe with various exclamations at the visually stunning impact. The glow from mobile phone screens blended seamlessly with the theater’s background lighting, instantly immersing the audience in the universe above, giving the whole venue an even more breathtaking sense of depth and beauty.


"Act III: Destiny"

"Act IV: The Empire"

The finale, "Epilogue: Manchu-Han Imperial Feast," concludes this 70-minute performance in a playful yet meaningful way. All cast and crew of "The Kangxi Ceremony" take their bows to the backdrop music of the theme song "The Empire."

With mountains as the curtain and valleys as the stage, "The Kangxi Ceremony" capitalizes on its setting quite effectively: it boasts both grandeur and delicate detail; it features scenes of clashing armies and burning camps, as well as serene water towns with small bridges and lotus ponds; it includes celestial questions under a sky full of stars, as well as humorous depictions of preparing a Manchu-Han feast. After watching many indoor and outdoor performances, both domestic and international, which often lead to viewer fatigue—especially those that start with everyone beating drums and shouting "hey"—"The Kangxi Ceremony" stands out with its harmony between heaven and humanity, and its exquisite craftsmanship, truly delivering many moments of awe. These 70 minutes feel like a journey through time, offering a taste of Emperor Kangxi’s 61-year reign and witnessing the rise and prosperity of a magnificent dynasty, leaving a uniquely memorable impression. After the show, taxis are available at the entrance to return to downtown. Opting for a shared ride costs just 15 yuan to get to your hotel.


May 29 – Third Stop in Chengde: Puning Temple (Putuo Zongcheng Temple)

Address: North side of Shizigou, Shuangqiao District, Chengde City

Ticket Price: 80 yuan

Opening Hours: Peak season 8:00–18:00   Off-season 8:30–17:00

Transportation: Accessible via Bus No. 6

If you don’t have the chance to visit Lhasa to see the grandeur of the Potala Palace with your own eyes, you can come to Puning Temple in Chengde to experience the religious ambiance of Tibet.

Also known as the "Little Potala Palace," Puning Temple is the largest among the Eight Outer Temples of Chengde. Built in the 36th year of the Qianlong reign (1771), it was constructed to celebrate Qianlong’s 60th birthday and his mother, the Empress Dowager’s, 80th birthday. The temple follows the natural contours of the mountain, featuring a flexible and varied layout with a strong influence of Tibetan Buddhist architectural style.

The temple complex consists of about 60 structures, with halls and pavilions scattered across the landscape, skillfully utilizing the terrain and scenery for dramatic effect. The layout is dynamic yet maintains solemn dignity. The main structure, the Great Red Platform, stands 43 meters tall. At its center is the Hall of Ten Thousand Methods Returning to One, the principal hall, whose roof rises above the surrounding buildings and is covered with gilded fish-scale copper tiles, shining brilliantly and exuding extraordinary magnificence. The base, surrounded by three tiers of auxiliary halls, creates a contrast of light and shadow, enhancing the sacred and solemn atmosphere—truly a gem of religious architecture.

Strolling across the five-arch stone bridge and passing through the Tibetan-style mountain gate, you’ll reach the stele pavilion with its yellow-glazed tile roof. Inside the pavilion stand three stone stelae inscribed in Chinese, Manchu, Mongolian, and Tibetan, respectively recording the "Puning Temple Stele Inscription," "The Record of the Entire Torghut Tribe’s Submission," and "The Record of Favor Bestowed Upon the Torghut People." Behind the stele pavilion is the Five-Tower Gate. The gate is entirely white, adorned with three tiers of blind windows in Tibetan style, three arched gateways below, and five lama towers atop the gate. A pair of large stone elephants guard the entrance, symbolizing good fortune and the boundless power of Mahayana Buddhism.

Chengde Itinerary Stop 4: Qingchui Peak National Forest Park

Address: East side of Chengde Mountain Resort

Ticket Price: 50 yuan

Opening Hours: 8:30–16:30

Transportation: Take Bus No. 10 to Lama Temple Station, then walk

This mountain peak is unique due to a towering stone pillar standing straight up to the sky within the scenic area, shaped like a washing baton, hence Emperor Kangxi named it “Qingchui Peak,” commonly referred to as “Bàngchuí Mountain.” It is one of Chengde’s top ten famous mountains, characterized by its unique Danxia landform, historically called “Stone Pillar,” and estimated to be around 3 million years old.

A tip for hikers: You can take the cable car up Qingchui Peak—round trip is 80 yuan per person, one way is 50 yuan; alternatively, you can hike up. The Qingchui Peak cable car is currently the longest chairlift-style cableway in China, stretching 1,620 meters. About 200 meters north of Qingchui Peak lies Baoshan Temple, known for its "Giant Cliff Buddha Light." The cliff carvings inside the temple are truly exceptional.

You can also walk about 500 meters south to see the remarkably lifelike Toad Stone. On the mountainside about 500 meters south of Qingchui Peak, from a distance, it looks just like a squatting toad—that’s the Toad Stone. The stone toad faces north with its head poking over the cliff, its mouth slightly open, and its appearance is very endearing. The toad-shaped rock is about 14 meters tall and roughly 20 meters long, with two hollows beneath its belly that connect from north to south and run east to west—you can actually crawl through them. Visiting in the height of summer, the caves inside are refreshingly cool.

Tip: There are only a few small fruit and vegetable stalls on Qingchui Peak, so it’s not very convenient to buy other items. It’s best to bring some drinking water and snacks before climbing.

May 30 – Final Stop in Chengde: Puning Temple

Address: East side of Shangketing Hotel, Puning Temple, Shuangqiao District, Chengde City

Ticket Price: Peak season (April–October) 80 yuan   Off-season (November–March) 60 yuan

Transportation: Take bus No. 6 and get off at Puning Temple stop.

Puning Temple, also known as the "Great Buddha Temple," is a Han-Tibetan style temple built during the Qianlong era. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the first group of 4A-level scenic spots designated by the state. It is now the largest Tibetan Buddhist activity center in northern China. Its unique blend of Han and Tibetan architectural styles sets it apart, and it enjoys a thriving flow of worshippers, with some even traveling from afar to seek divination here.

Although not very large in scale, once you step into Puning Temple, you can immediately sense the profound richness of Tibetan Buddhist culture.

The main statue in Puning Temple is the Thousand-Handed and Thousand-Eyed Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva, the world’s largest wooden-carved Buddha statue. It has been recorded in the Guinness World Records and is truly awe-inspiring.

The end of my visit to Puning Temple marks the conclusion of my trip to Chengde, and I begin my journey back to Beijing. Over the three days in Chengde, I experienced the deep cultural heritage of China’s Qing Dynasty: from imperial gardens to sacred Tibetan Buddhist sites; from the Manchu family’s vision of unity under heaven. Every facet of Chinese civilization is vividly reflected in this ancient city. History may pass, but culture endures. To me, Chengde is like a wise elder who has weathered the ages, quietly witnessing the passage of time and softly telling the world the stories of this ancient city that belong to the past.

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