Places to eat crabs in Yangcheng Lake: Notes from a true foodie

The "2019 China Catering Industry Annual Report," released on July 4, 2019, hailed Shandong Province as the most food-savvy province in China with a turnover of 399.5 billion yuan. Jiangsu Province, ranking third on the list, reported 343 billion yuan in catering revenue. Jiangsu is the country's largest producer of river crabs, with an aquaculture area of about 4 million mu. Come autumn, for crab-loving Jiangsu residents, it’s time to enjoy delicious hairy crabs. Although we can’t determine the exact share of hairy crabs from this report, one thing is certain: hairy crabs hold a significant place not only in Jiangsu but also in the hearts of Chinese people.

Chinese people not only pay attention to the seasonality of food—such as eating dumplings on New Year’s Eve, spring bamboo shoots in spring, sticky rice on Winter Solstice, and Laba porridge on Laba Festival—but we also care deeply about the origin of our food. For example, Hami melons from Xinjiang, sea cucumbers from Dalian, high-quality salted duck eggs from Gaoyou, and braised chicken from Dao Kou. When it comes to hairy crabs, those from Yangcheng Lake are undoubtedly the most delicious. But to enjoy the most authentic ones, freshness is just as important as origin. Crabs steamed fresh out of the water are at their most delicious. No matter how fast logistics or advanced preservation technology gets, something just feels a bit off. Store-bought hairy crabs can be stir-fried in oil, spicy, or cooked with ginger and scallions, but when it comes to steamed hairy crabs, diners prefer to travel all the way to the source.

For a true foodie, the long journey isn’t an issue. "When crabs are plump and autumn fades, crows clamor as the sunset blazes." With autumn deepening and drawn by the promise of what the internet claims are China’s most delicious steamed hairy crabs, we drove to Ashi Crab Farm in Bashang Town on the eastern shore of Yangcheng Lake in Kunshan City, Jiangsu Province. This is the most famous spot for steamed hairy crabs by the lake. What makes their crabs so special is that they aren’t store-bought, but come from Ashi’s own farm, which has over 20 years of experience raising hairy crabs.

In recent years, to protect the environment of Yangcheng Lake, the government introduced new policies, and Ashi responded proactively by surrendering his farming permit. He moved his crabs from the lake to standardized ponds outside for eco-friendly farming. Though they’ve left their “hometown,” Ashi’s crabs still use water from Yangcheng Lake and employ the most environmentally friendly and scientific farming methods. High-grade elodea is used to purify the water. In these clear, standardized ponds, the crabs enjoy a more comfortable “living environment” than they did in the lake. Thanks to Ashi’s careful care, his crabs remain plump and rich in roe, and even appear slightly earlier than those from the lake—letting us eager foodies get a head start and savor them first.

Since there’s no middle transportation step, the crabs go straight from the water to the steamer, resulting in an especially sweet and tender flavor. Just a touch of ginger and vinegar enhances their uniquely delicious taste without the need for heavy seasonings. One bite releases a burst of juicy sweetness, and as you chew, you can feel the elasticity of the crab meat. The roe is “so delicious it’ll make your eyebrows fall off,” and that uniquely sweet taste makes us foodies feel the trip was absolutely worth it.

Thanks to the excellent farming water quality and attentive care, Ashi Crab Farm’s crabs make foodies from across the country feel that, despite the long journey and precious timing, it’s truly worth every penny. Ashi himself is very straightforward. Though his current crab ponds are right by Yangcheng Lake—and for us outsiders, that counts as the core area—he honestly clarifies that his crabs are not from Yangcheng Lake.

But for us far away, that distinction really doesn’t matter. These days, with so many “bathed crabs” and “name-dropped crabs,” many businesspeople just want quick profits. Ashi, however, has stayed true to his original mission for over 20 years, focusing on crab farming and treating others with sincerity. This craftsman spirit moves us a little as we indulge in our feast.

Dining at Ashi Crab Farm also offers a beautiful setting. The three-story building features classic Jiangnan-style architecture, with an elegant traditional charm. The first floor is a dining hall, and the upper floors have private rooms. While enjoying Ashi’s fresh and delicious crabs, taking a brief break from the hustle and bustle—doesn’t that feel like having your cake and eating it too? Too bad our eyes were bigger than our stomachs, and with the addition of local chicken and soft-shell turtle, we ended up stuffed by the end of the meal. With crisp autumn air, holding a crab and sipping wine, it’s just like Li Bai wrote: “The crab’s claw is golden nectar, the wine mound is Penglai. Drink fine wine, and beneath the moon, get drunk atop the tower.”