The nemesis of chicken? Taipei’s izakaya specializes in chicken skewers — must-try: soy-braised chicken liver

Text and photos by /KUNI

(Incredibly delicious soy-braised chicken liver)

Ji-dori, a highly recommended yakitori izakaya by friends, has only been open for a few months. Arriving in the evening at a dimly lit spot in the alleys of Lin Sen North Road, you’ll find an elegant wooden storefront with a sign in Chinese characters: "纪どり烧鸟居酒屋鸟居酒屋." Stepping inside, there aren’t many customers — almost all Japanese — but luckily there’s a Taiwanese female server.

Don’t panic — besides the purely Japanese menu, there’s also a specially translated Chinese version, and the service is very patient. Before you know it, you’ve ordered a ton:

Potato salad (NT$170)
Beef tendon miso stew (NT$200)
Chicken neck (NT$160)
Chicken thigh (NT$140)
Tea-soaked rice (NT$140)
Chicken liver (NT$160)
Chicken skin (NT$120)
Chicken and green onion skewer (NT$140)
Chicken heart (NT$140)
Asparagus and pork (NT$160)
Chicken wing (NT$160)
Chicken? (NT$100)
Pork belly (NT$140)
Chicken butt (NT$140)
Grilled rice ball (NT$50)
Chicken cartilage (NT$140)
Chicken meatball (NT$160)

(At the entrance)

(The counter lets you watch the chef grill live)

(Complimentary side dish)

(Chef grilling)

(A surprising sight)

It’s been ages since I’ve had such amazing Japanese-style skewers, mainly featuring chicken. No long-winded intro — starting with the potato salad, served slightly warm, with vinegar as the main flavor to gently warm up the appetite.

The beef tendon miso stew is braised until nearly falling apart, with an intense flavor. The spicy and salty notes pique my curiosity. The chicken neck is super tender and full of fat. The chicken thigh is the first soy-glazed skewer — the sudden smoky aroma is simply captivating. Then comes a bowl of tea-soaked rice, hot but not scalding. Its light broth seems to cleanse the greasiness in your stomach, resetting your palate.

(Potato salad)

(Today’s drink: Kubota sake)

(A common way to serve sake in Japan — deliberately poured until it overflows into the wooden box)

● 《ET News Cloud》 reminds you: Don’t drink and drive, don’t drive if you’ve been drinking.

(Beef tendon simmered in miso)

(Chicken neck)

(Chicken thigh meat)

(Rice soaked in tea)

The soy-glazed chicken liver was incredibly delicious — I almost let out a sound when I bit into it. It was so tender it practically melted, like finely seared French foie gras. Getting the cooking just right is tricky, and although the Japanese chef has temporarily returned to Japan, his Taiwanese assistant really shined today.

(Today’s biggest surprise: Soy-glazed chicken liver)

The chicken skin was also outstanding — intentionally grilled to a char, with a smoky aroma, slightly crispy on the outside yet tender within, elevating the usually off-putting layer of subcutaneous fat. The chicken skewers had scallion pieces inside that turned sweet after glazing, while the chicken hearts were unexpectedly ordinary. Just then, a bowl of consommé sprinkled with wasabi and a touch of pepper arrived at just the right moment — truly inspired.

Today’s asparagus with pork and pork belly were both rather unremarkable; it seems pork isn’t their strong suit. The chicken? had an annoying fishy smell, which was surprising.

(Chicken skin)

(Chicken and scallion skewer)

(Chicken heart)

(Consommé with wasabi)

(Asparagus with pork)

(Chicken wings)

(Chicken?)

(Pork belly)

A friend highly recommended chicken butthole, so I reluctantly ordered one skewer to try. Little did I know — once I tried it, I was blown away. It might have been the most delicious chicken butthole I’ve ever had in my life. I’d never been a fan before, but today it was amazingly tasty. Truly magical.

The chicken cartilage was also somewhat innovative — bits of meat still on the bone, grilled not just to be crispy but with a soft chewiness. The final chicken meatballs featured the aroma of scallions leading the way, then quickly rolled in a golden raw egg yolk just briefly, offering a unique flavor.

(Chicken butthole)

(Grilled rice ball)

(Chicken cartilage)

(Chicken meatball)

(Rolled in a raw egg yolk for a unique flavor)

After paying the bill and stepping out of the shop, it suddenly occurred to me — chickens must absolutely despise this yakitori place. It’s practically a chicken’s nemesis.

紀どり烧鸟居酒屋 (Ki-Tori)
Address: No. 14, Lane 85, Linsen North Road, Taipei City
Phone: (02)2511-6616
Hours: 18:00~23:00

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