Huma River Estuary Scenic Area

　　The other key tourist attraction in the century-old town of Huma is the Huma River Estuary Scenic Area, situated at the southern edge of the county. It lies 9 kilometers from the town center. Heading south from Huma Town, a straight white road cuts through lush riverside parks and fertile green farmland, leading to the picturesque Huma River Estuary. This road is National Highway 209—the only route connecting Heihe to Mohe County—and the Huma River Estuary is one of its most challenging stretches. The beautiful Huma River Estuary Scenic Area is located on the south bank of the Huma River Bridge. Speaking of the Huma River Estuary Scenic Area, one cannot overlook the Huma River itself. The Huma River is a major tributary of the Heilongjiang (Amur) River within the Greater Khingan Mountains region. It originates from Dabai Mountain in Huzhong District of the Greater Khingan Mountains, flows through the counties (or districts) of Xinlin, Tahe, and Huma, and finally joins the Heilongjiang River east of the century-old town of Huma, stretching a total of 524 kilometers. The Huma River is renowned for its abundant population of rare freshwater fish, such as the critically endangered Hucho taimen (Siberian taimen), chum salmon, and lenok. Among them, the Hucho taimen is hailed by the Japanese as the "dream fish of the gods" and is deeply cherished in Japanese culture. Eating Hucho taimen is an annual tradition in Japan, symbolizing good fortune. In recent years, some Japanese anglers have even traveled thousands of miles specifically to fish for Hucho taimen in northern China, considering catching one the greatest joy of their lives. Chum salmon, another legendary species in the Huma River, also has a remarkable life cycle. Born in the Heilongjiang River and its tributaries, these fish grow up in the ocean. Upon reaching maturity, they undertake long, perilous migrations back to their birthplaces to spawn—making the Huma River one of their famous spawning grounds. The banks of the Huma River also feature fertile land, lush pastures, and rich mineral resources, particularly gold. The Xinglong and Hanjiayuanzi towns along the Huma River in Huma County are known as the "Land of Gold," hosting famous gold mines that once produced up to 60,000 taels of gold annually. To protect the ecological environment of the Greater Khingan Mountains and preserve its lush forests and flowing rivers, the local government has decisively halted gold mining. This timely policy has contributed to a more harmonious ecosystem in the Huma River basin. The riverbanks are lined with forests of precious tree species, including Dahurian larch, Scots pine, Mongolian oak, Manchurian ash, white birch, and black birch. Various birds and animals inhabit these woods, making the Huma River an indispensable lifeline for the Greater Khingan Mountains. It is the Huma River and its numerous tributaries that bring vitality and vivid beauty to this stunning mountain landscape.

　　The century-old town is fortunate to possess the most beautiful and fertile stretch of the Huma River. It can be called the mother river of the Huma people, and the town itself is named after the Huma River. The picturesque Huma River Estuary is the finest gift bestowed upon the people by the river.

　　The name "Huma River Estuary" isn't entirely accurate, as the actual river mouth is over 20 kilometers southeast of Huma Town. A more fitting name for this area would be the Huma River Crossing. Before 1980, when National Highway 209 passed through here, there was no bridge, and all vehicles and travelers had to rely on ferries, making transportation extremely inconvenient. In 1980, the Huma River Bridge was completed, ending the ferry era. The bridge has since become an iconic landmark of the Huma River Estuary. Approaching the area, the majestic structure of the Huma River Bridge is the first sight to greet visitors. Without prior knowledge, few outsiders would imagine that such a grand bridge exists in this remote northern region, nestled among vast mountains. Spanning 398 meters in length and over 8 meters in width, the bridge is a grand, arched structure made of reinforced concrete. It consists of six spans, each with a 60-meter clearance, featuring a white cement road surface and neat white guardrails. The bridge stands about 40 meters high. At the time of its completion, it was the largest arched bridge in Heilongjiang Province, a testament to its magnificence. Viewed from a high vantage point overlooking the estuary, the Huma River resembles a slowly moving dragon, while the imposing bridge appears like a shimmering jade belt coiled around the dragon. Walking across the bridge offers breathtaking views that leave visitors speechless. First, you’ll be struck by the endless greenery on both riverbanks—an unspoiled, vibrant green unlike the sparse, artificially cultivated greenery of cities. Here, the green stretches as far as the eye can see: the nearby land, distant mountains, and rolling hills all blend into an ocean of green that seems to reach the horizon. Psychologists suggest that green symbolizes hope and brings tranquility, easing stress. Amid this sea of green, you’re sure to let go of all worries and become one with nature’s beauty. Looking down from the bridge, the fast-flowing river, combined with the bridge’s height and the presence of piers, creates swirling eddies. The steep cliffs along the banks reinforce the river’s original name, "Huma’er River," derived from the Daur language, meaning "swift currents in high mountain gorges where sunlight never reaches"—a name that truly fits.

　　On the south bank of the Huma River Bridge lies a small hill called Xiaoheliangzi Mountain, whose side facing the river features towering cliffs. This hill is a key scenic spot in the Huma River Estuary, not only for its beautiful scenery but also because it is home to the renowned Huma’er Battle Monument, located near the cliffs at the mountaintop. On the southern side of Xiaoheliangzi Mountain, a mountain path leads directly to the summit. For the adventurous, you can also climb up from the northwest slope near the riverbank. Near the cliffs at the top stands the famous Huma’er Battle Monument. Its design is unique and deeply symbolic—it takes the shape of an ancient weapon known as a "crossbow." The monument has a base over half a meter high with steps on all four sides. The main body is a rectangular prism, with two corners cut off at the top, transforming it into the shape of a crossbow case. Atop this case, the tip of an arrow is visible, creating the image of a drawn crossbow ready to fire. The front of the monument bears the inscription "Huma’er Battle Monument," written in bold black characters by Chen Lei, a veteran of the Northeast Anti-Japanese United Army and former governor of Heilongjiang Province. Above the text is a black emblem resembling an ancient cannon, giving the monument a simple yet solemn and dignified appearance.

　　The Huma’er Monument was erected in 1987 by the Huma County Government to commemorate the Huma’er Battle—a historic fight over 300 years ago where Chinese soldiers and civilians defended their homeland against Tsarist Russian invaders at the Huma River Estuary.

　　In the early 17th century, the expansionist Tsarist Russian forces, coveting the rich resources of China’s Heilongjiang River basin, took advantage of the transition between the Ming and Qing dynasties to launch invasions. They dispatched multiple bands of marauders into the region, turning the once peaceful and prosperous Heilongjiang basin into a scene of bloodshed and devastation. The local ethnic groups, who had lived in peace, were now trampled under the iron heels of Russian aggression. However, our resilient ancestors, together with Qing Dynasty troops, fought bravely against these ruthless invaders. One Tsarist band, led by Stepanov, was defeated by the Qing general Bandi on the Songhua River and fled upstream to the Heilongjiang. In June 1653, they reached the Huma River Estuary. Facing food shortages and the constant threat of annihilation by Chinese forces, Stepanov decided to spend the winter there and began constructing a fortress for a desperate last stand. After a struggle for survival, they built a sturdy fortification, which they called "Humasysk." To prevent attacks, the fortress was heavily reinforced with double wooden palisades filled with earth, surrounded by deep moats and obstacles. Inside, it had artillery emplacements with multiple cannons and stockpiles of defensive supplies, as well as wells dug for water. Its strategic location made it highly defensible. This fortress, like a poisoned thorn embedded in the nation’s territory, posed a serious threat to the peace of the Heilongjiang basin. In 1655, the Qing government dispatched General Ming’andi to lead troops to eliminate the Russian invaders. Ming’andi arrived at Humasysk in March 1655. He first easily defeated the enemy outside the fort and then laid siege to the entire stronghold. Initially, he attempted a peaceful resolution, sending a letter urging Stepanov to surrender. However, Stepanov, relying on the fort’s strength and ample ammunition, refused to yield. Thus, Ming’andi ordered an assault. Qing troops bombarded the fortress with cannons and incendiary arrows, while the Russians resisted fiercely with firearms. The Qing bombardment lasted a full day and night, shaking the heavens with the roar of battle as the fortress erupted in flames. The Qing forces employed ladders, shields, and other siege equipment, with soldiers courageously charging forward despite the danger. The indomitable spirit of the Chinese people in resisting invasion was fully displayed. The Russian invaders, terrified, could only fight desperately. The intense battle raged for a day and night, and although many Russian soldiers were killed, the fortress remained uncaptured by dawn. General Ming’andi then decided to shift from direct assault to a siege strategy. Troops camped around the fortress, cutting off its water supply and continuously bombarding it to force a surrender. This tactic proved effective—after over half a month, the besieged forces ran out of ammunition and food, morale plummeted, and they descended into despair, praying for salvation while some even considered surrender. Victory seemed imminent, but tragically, Ming’andi misjudged the situation. Citing insufficient supplies and heavy ammunition expenditure, he made the rash decision to withdraw, causing the campaign to fall short of complete victory. Although the Huma’er Battle did not achieve a decisive triumph, its historical significance is undeniable. It dealt a heavy blow to Tsarist Russia’s ambitions to invade and exploit China’s northeast, demonstrated the unwavering resolve of Chinese soldiers and civilians, and boosted the confidence of the region’s ethnic groups in resisting foreign aggression. Like the famous Battle of Yaksa, it stands as a crucial chapter in China’s defense of its northeastern borders and must never be forgotten.

　　After the Huma’er Battle, although Stepanov’s forces were not immediately destroyed, they were severely weakened, lacking ammunition and food. Fearing further attacks, they abandoned Humasysk and roamed the Heilongjiang basin until they were finally annihilated by Qing forces at the Songhua River estuary in July 1658. The fortress itself was burned down by local ethnic groups.

　　Over 300 years have passed, but the people of the century-old town have not forgotten this glorious history of their ancestors’ heroic resistance against Russian invaders. To honor the martyrs and educate future generations, the Huma County Government established this monument on Xiaoheliangzi Mountain. Today, whether they are tourists from afar or locals visiting the area, everyone who climbs to the top of Xiaoheliangzi Mountain pauses here. They gaze at the drawn crossbow, listen to the rustling pines that echo like the thunder of battle, and let their thoughts drift back over 300 years to the epic battlefield. They imagine themselves joining their brave ancestors in defending their homeland. Now, the Huma’er Battle Monument has become a key cultural landmark and patriotic education site in the Huma River Estuary Scenic Area. Forever standing on the land soaked with the blood of heroes, it remains deeply engraved in the hearts of the people of the century-old town.

　　About 700 meters from the Huma’er Battle Monument atop Xiaoheliangzi Mountain lies another cultural site—the Dajue Temple. This temple was introduced through an investment project brought by Ms. Sha Ping, a Huma native working in Singapore. Covering an area of 8,000 square meters with a construction area of 18,000 square meters, the temple complex includes several architectural groups. The surrounding area is meticulously landscaped with green belts, giving the entire temple a serene, secluded atmosphere as if it were an ancient mountain monastery hidden in dense woods. Though not heavily visited due to its mountain location, this only enhances its tranquility. Visitors to Xiaoheliangzi Mountain often make time to explore Dajue Temple. Even if they aren’t religious, the solemn Buddhist environment helps them feel spiritually refreshed and free from worldly worries. Dajue Temple may be ordinary—it lacks a long history or widespread fame and remains relatively unknown—but it is also extraordinary. Rooted in the remote north and nestled within vast forests, it embodies the Buddhist ideal of universal light. Just as Hanshan Temple is associated with Zhang Ji’s poetic line, “Outside Suzhou’s city walls from Temple of Cold Hill / Bells break the ship-borne roamer’s dream and midnight still,” Dajue Temple, hidden in a forest paradise, could equally be described as “a hidden temple in the deep mountains, with Buddha’s light reflected in the green sea.”

　　In addition to the Huma’er Battle Monument and Dajue Temple, Xiaoheliangzi Mountain also boasts unique natural attractions such as the Guest-Greeting Pine, the Fox Fairy Cave, and the Dragon Pool.

　　The Guest-Greeting Pine is a Scots pine growing atop Xiaoheliangzi Mountain, close to the cliffs. Even from a distance, its solitary, proud stance near the mountaintop is striking. Though not as ancient or robust as Huangshan’s Guest-Greeting Pine, it is more elegant and graceful. Often referred to as the “beauty pine,” this pine resembles a slender maiden gazing toward the horizon, awaiting loved ones’ return. Located not far from the Huma’er Battle Monument, the pine and monument face each other. Thus, this weathered pine also seems like a heroic soldier from 300 years ago, standing guard on the ancient battlefield, ready to draw the drawn crossbow and strike down invaders. Many visitors are drawn to touch its trunk and take photos with it.

　　The Dragon Pool is a river bend beneath the cliffs of Xiaoheliangzi Mountain. As the Huma River flows through this area, it forms swirling eddies and turbulent waters, appearing pitch-black and bottomless against the dark cliffs. The view from above is both eerie and awe-inspiring, reminiscent of legends about dragons. In ancient mythology, dragons were powerful creatures, some said to control water. Though less divine than the traditional dragon, these beings were still revered. As a result, fishermen and swimmers often avoid this part of the river, adding an air of mystery to the otherwise picturesque Huma River Estuary.

　　The Fox Fairy Cave is located halfway up the western side of Xiaoheliangzi Mountain, about ten meters above the riverbank. It is a natural cave formed through long-term weathering, with no signs of human carving—adding to its mystique. Local legend says it is the dwelling place of a fox spirit. In northern Chinese folklore, fox spirits are believed to have the power to bring blessings and ward off misfortune. People often pray to them for healing, protection, or peace. These spirits are depicted in various forms—sometimes as beautiful maidens, other times as elderly men or women. Though no one knows the exact appearance of the spirit in this cave, it hasn’t diminished the reverence of worshippers. At the cave’s deepest point, visitors have created a small altar covered with a red cloth, adorned with offerings of fruit throughout the year. Though unremarkable in appearance, the Fox Fairy Cave is shrouded in mystery, attracting curious visitors eager to uncover its secrets.

　　The Huma River, as it flows through the estuary, is lined with cliffs and dotted with unique rocks and waterscapes. Six kilometers upstream from the Huma River Bridge, on the river’s eastern bank, lies a natural waterfall. About 20 meters high, the waterfall cascades from a crevice in the cliffside, formed by clear mountain spring water. Its flow varies slightly each year depending on rainfall. Though it lacks the grandeur of Lushan’s waterfall or the beauty of Huangguoshu, it possesses a unique charm amidst the blue skies, white clouds, and emerald landscapes. From a distance, the waterfall resembles a white silk ribbon draped across a green carpet, splitting the mountain in two. It evokes the poetic line by Xu Ning about Lushan: “Like a long white silk stream, forever flying / Cleaving the green mountain’s hue in twain.” Though less majestic than Lushan’s falls, this scene perfectly captures the poem’s essence. Up close, the cool mist of water droplets splashing against rocks offers a refreshing sensation. The water remains crystal-clear, almost like heavenly nectar, tempting visitors to cup it in their hands and drink. If you visit in winter, don’t miss seeing the frozen waterfall. The once-flowing cascade turns into a massive, glittering ice formation, sculpted naturally into stunning shapes. Against the blue sky, yellow cliffs, and white ice, it creates a breathtaking spectacle. From afar, the icefall resembles a serene, benevolent Buddha resting against the cliff—earning it the local nickname “Veiled Jade Buddha.”

　　The Huma River, still in a relatively pristine state, maintains a harmonious ecosystem, supporting a diverse range of wildlife. Visitors to the Huma River Estuary can enjoy the pleasures of this balanced environment. In summer, the chirping of birds along the riverbanks creates a symphony of nature, soothing the mind and body. You might also spot mother ducks leading their neatly arranged ducklings for a swim. With luck, you may even see playful squirrels foraging and leaping through the trees. Fishing is a popular activity here. Unlike the sea, where people collect shells or catch crabs, the Huma River offers the simple joy of angling. No need for expert skills—just bring a basic fishing line with a hook. Willow branches make perfect makeshift rods, and insect larvae found in the wetlands near the riverbanks serve as readily available bait. The river teems with small fish, especially a species called liugenr (willow root fish), which are greedy feeders. With baited hooks, catches come quickly. For those new to fishing, another fun method involves using glass bottles. Prepare a few glass jars, cover their openings with plastic wrap (leaving a small gap), and fill them with bait made from roasted wheat bran and soybean meal. Tie the jars to a string and suspend them in the water with a stick. Later, when you pull them up, you’ll find them filled with liugenr or other small fish. This unique method can yield surprisingly large catches in just half a day.

　　The small fish of the Huma River are incredibly delicious. They can be cooked simply by boiling them in the river water with a pinch of salt. Alternatively, drying them into fish jerky makes for a wonderful gift—offering a rare taste of pure, natural goodness in the city.

　　The beauty of the Huma River Estuary leaves visitors enchanted, always wanting to see more. If you wish to stay longer, there’s no need to worry about accommodations. The area has well-equipped resorts that can host over a hundred guests, serving delicious, authentic northern farmhouse cuisine. Here, you can enjoy both stunning scenery and delightful food for an unforgettable trip.