Yunyang Zhang Fei Temple

(Photography: China)

　　Zhang Fei Temple, also known as Zhang Huanhou Temple, is situated at the foot of Feifeng Mountain, facing Yunyang County across the river. It was constructed to honor Zhang Fei, a renowned general of the Shu Han during the Three Kingdoms period. Originally built in the late Shu Han era, the temple has undergone expansions through the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, boasting a history of over 1,700 years. The current structure covers a construction area of 1,400 square meters, with most of the buildings having been rebuilt after the floods of 1870. With its glazed walls and resplendent halls set against the mountain terrain, the temple presents a majestic sight. It houses a rich collection of stone inscriptions and calligraphic paintings.

　　　Legend has it that after Zhang Fei was assassinated by his subordinates Fan Jiang and Zhang Da in Langzhong, the two took his head and attempted to surrender to the Eastern Wu. Upon reaching Yunyang and hearing that peace had been made between Wu and Shu, they discarded his head into the river. A fisherman later retrieved it while fishing and buried it at the foot of Feifeng Mountain. A temple was erected here in his memory, hence the saying that “Zhang Fei’s head is in Yunyang, but his body is in Langzhong.” Revered for his righteousness and bravery, Zhang Fei is honored by many. Every year on the 28th day of the eighth lunar month, his birthday, locals gather to hold commemorative ceremonies, which have grown into sizable and influential folk events.
　　Legend says that Zhang Fei’s spirit once blew Zhang Penghe 30 li upriver against the wind. Today, "his old home" has been moved 30 kilometers away by daring descendants who challenge nature. Reflecting on this, Xiao Min, poet and then-county magistrate of Yunyang, composed a poem: “Once a martial official, he first brought winds that blew thirty li. Now the river breeze is even clearer, sending off the Chancellor and then himself.”

　　 Architecture

　　　　Zhang Fei Temple makes full use of the local topography, nestled against the mountain and overlooking the river. The landscape gardens and temple architecture blend seamlessly, complementing each other. Outside the temple, scenes such as the yellow-wood stairway, stone bridges over streams, waterfalls and pools entwined with vines, riverside thatched huts, and ancient trees on rugged cliffs create a serene and picturesque setting. Inside, historic structures like the Brotherhood Building, Calligraphy and Painting Corridor, Main Hall, Wind-Assisting Pavilion, Cloud-Gazing Pavilion, Azalea Pavilion, and Listening-to-the-Waves Pavilion are laid out with meticulous precision, featuring layered and staggered arrangements in a unique style. They embody the grandeur of northern Chinese architecture, the delicate charm of southern styles, along with garden embellishments, bamboo groves, and winding paths that lead to tranquil corners. Hence, Zhang Fei Temple is often hailed as a “Scenic Wonder of Bashu.”
　　Ascending the steep steps to the second floor, the first thing that catches your eye is the sculpture of Liu Bei, Guan Yu, and Zhang Fei swearing brotherhood in the Peach Garden, standing facing the river. The lifelike expressions of the three figures, set against a backdrop of peach blossoms, exude a heroic and uplifting aura. The surrounding corridors feature carvings of works by master calligraphers and painters, and many floorboards are marked in white, indicating their replication from the original site. On the third floor, the central figure in the main hall is a bronze statue of Zhang Fei. The original clay sculpture could not be relocated in one piece, so a skillful sculptor recreated it as a bronze statue based on the original. The bronze figure appears thoughtful, as if pondering the future of the Shu Han kingdom and the well-being of its people. Around the statue are clay sculptures depicting four key periods of Zhang Fei’s life: punishing the postal inspector, releasing Yan Yan out of righteousness, the Battle of Changban Slope, and his death in Langzhong. Above the bronze statue hangs a plaque inscribed with the words “Upholding the Han Dynasty.” In front of the statue, visitors often tie red cloths to the railing, praying for safety.

　　Zhang Fei (?～221)　　Zhang Fei (c.?–221), courtesy name Yide, also known as Yide, was a native of Taocun, Zhuojun County, Zhuo Commandery (present-day Zhongyi Store, Zhuozhou City), Eastern Han Dynasty. In his early years, he formed a deep bond with Liu Bei and Guan Yu in Zhuo, pledging eternal brotherhood in what is known as the “Peach Garden Oath.” In the late Eastern Han, Zhang Fei, Guan Yu, and Liu Bei raised local militias in Zhuojun and joined the suppression of the Yellow Turban Rebellion. In the 12th year of Jian’an (207), Liu Bei sought refuge under Liu Biao of Jingzhou. When Cao Cao attacked Jingzhou, Liu Bei was defeated and fled to Xiakou. At Changban Slope in Dangyang, Cao’s forces scattered Liu Bei’s army. Zhang Fei held off the enemy with just 20 men. Seeing the approaching troops, he stood defiantly at the bridge, swords drawn, preventing their advance and enabling Liu Bei’s escape. Later on the way to Sichuan, he captured... More+