Ximei Fort

Ximei Fort

Ximei Fort is a cultural heritage site protected by Guangdong Province.

Ximei Fort is the ruins of an ancient stronghold located on the mountains behind Yangyuan Mountain in the Danxia Mountain Scenic Area, Shaoguan City, Guangdong Province. Built during the Ming Dynasty, it is now uninhabited. There are two theories about its existence: one says it was a fortress built by local elites to guard against bandits, while villagers believe it was a hideout built by bandits themselves.

Regardless of which story is true, living at Ximei Fort in ancient times must have been extremely tough. Climbing the steep stone steps along the mountainside to reach the summit, one finds crumbling walls quietly standing along the path. From Ximei Fort, the spectacular Danxia landforms stretch out as far as the eye can see, with the occasional eagle soaring overhead. Tourists often pause at the mid-mountain platform to wait for the beautiful sunset. Unfortunately, today’s sunset isn’t the most stunning — without the glow of evening clouds, it feels somewhat lonely. The sudden appearance of a hawk adds a touch of darkness to the horizon.

Discovering Ximei Fort was purely accidental. Adjacent to Yangyuan Rock is Yangyuan Mountain, whose cliffs rise thousands of feet high. The rock face, eroded by water over time, features vertical grooves resembling cloth hanging from the cliff, hence the name “Cloth-Drying Cliff.” On one narrow, fishback-like slope of the mountain, faint steps can be seen in the distance, like a heavenly ladder hanging off the cliff. Locals say those are the Ninety-Nine Heavenly Steps, the only route to the summit in the past — so narrow that only two people could pass side by side. To accommodate the growing number of visitors, a Cloud Cliff Plank Walk was later built along the back of the mountain, hugging the cliffs.

After an arduous climb, reaching the base of the Heavenly Steps makes one realize that previous challenges were nothing in comparison. The steps are not only narrow but also incredibly steep, with sheer cliffs on both sides. Without the support of iron chains, it’s hard to imagine how anyone managed to climb up and down. At the end of the steps stands what appears to be a mountain gate-like structure, built precariously atop the ridge and guarding the mountaintop. Inside, the passage winds back and forth, with two or three layers of gates and remnants of brick-and-stone architecture. Within the gate area, there are cliff inscriptions documenting the reconstruction of Ximei Fort. The full text, consisting of over 100 characters, is dated “the auspicious day of June in the ninth year of the Xianfeng era (1859).” According to the inscription, the fort originated in the late Ming Dynasty when Li Zicheng rose against the Ming, plunging the country into chaos. A local gentry family, the Wu Dezhangs, fled here with their household to escape the turmoil and established a stronghold on the mountaintop, naming it “Ximei Fort.”

Ximei Fort is surrounded by cliffs on three sides, with only one side accessible via stone steps. Even descending from the mountaintop gate involves passing through two guard posts that control the ascent, making the terrain extraordinarily treacherous. Locals explain that the fort was used as a refuge during wartime until it was abandoned after the Taiping Rebellion. It underwent multiple renovations during the Republican era and was even used as a shelter by locals during the Second Sino-Japanese War.

Upon reaching the summit, one is greeted by a flat expanse covered in lush trees and the gentle chirping of birds, resembling a paradise on earth. This is a classic example of Danxia landform — steep, knife-edged surroundings with a surprisingly flat summit. Legend has it that refugees once pitched tents on the mountaintop and even dug reservoirs to supply daily water needs. On the other side of the hilltop is a pavilion, offering a breathtaking panoramic view: layers of peaks spread out before you, with the Jin River and Xianglong Lake winding around the mountains, and scattered villages dotting the green landscape.

Today, all that remains of Ximei Fort are several sections of crumbled walls, two dilapidated stone gate structures bearing the inscription “Ximei Fort,” and stone tablets briefly describing the origin of the stronghold. More prominent are the lush trees, wild grasses, and unnamed wildflowers and vines tangled among the ruins. Just outside the fort’s gate lie the Ninety-Nine Heavenly Steps — an extremely steep section of mountain path carved from red stone into cascading steps.

Looking down from Ximei Fort, one can sense the imposing aura of “one man guarding the pass against ten thousand.” One can imagine the fort’s master, in days gone by, bringing his lady to watch the glorious sunset each evening — what a magnificent sight that must have been. Nowadays, many visitors come to Ximei Fort mainly to admire the Danxia sunset.

At this moment, visitors passing through Ximei Fort are fortunate. The hope of seeing a sunset has arrived. So, they linger here, some even sitting on the Ninety-Nine Heavenly Steps — to witness the Danxia sunset. Gradually, a golden-silver rift forms between the dark clouds and the distant mountains shrouded in mist, through which rays of the setting sun scatter. The scene before one’s eyes resembles a giant screen, with the sunset as the protagonist performing between heaven and earth on Danxia Mountain. It’s like a painted canvas, saturated with rich, striking hues.

Ximei Fort is a beautiful place. Its beauty lies in the accent of the Danxia sunset, the backdrop of the Danxia mountain range, and the historical stories hidden beneath its broken walls.

Huangwu Village: Located in the core area of the Danxia Mountain Global Geopark, Huangwu Village comprises 11 villager groups: Buguling, Xiewu, Shuangheshui, Huangwu, Huangwuba, Xin’anba, Laomawu, Xinmawu, Qinghutang, Yaotang, and Duanshi. It has a total of 638 households and 2,682 residents. The village spans 3,488 mu of arable land and 18,000 mu of forested land. In 2014, the per capita rural income was 10,035 yuan.

The village collective economy mainly comes from resource fees of the Huangwu Hydropower Station, rental income from Shimu Guesthouse, and Danxia Mountain... More details about Huangwu Village ++

Further Reading:

· Ninth Batch of Guangdong Provincial Cultural Heritage Sites