Nanguo Temple

Nanguo Temple

Nanguo Temple is a national AAAA-level tourist attraction and a cultural tourism site.

Nanguo Temple, located in a mountain valley 2 kilometers south of Tianshui City, covers an area of 5.7 hectares. Here, the trees are lush, the ancient cypresses tower to the sky, the scenery is beautiful, and birds sing among fragrant flowers. It is one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Tianshui, known as the "Ancient Cypresses of the South Mountain."

With a history of over a thousand years, the temple has been a destination for poets and scholars throughout the ages. The great Tang Dynasty poet Du Fu of China, in 759 AD, took refuge in Qinzhou (today's Tianshui) and wrote more than a hundred poems of praise, among which one—“On the mount’s head stands Nanguo Temple fair; / Northward the spring flows with murmuring air. / In the courtyard grow old trees so tall; / Through the town runs a clear stream by the wall. / At the foot of cliffs autumn flowers bloom; / By the bell at night the sunset looms. / Gazing on all, I sigh o’er my fate; / The brookside breeze makes me desolate.”—was particularly vivid and masterful. As a result, both in ancient and modern times, it has further stirred people’s interest and longing to visit. On the eastern side of the temple, at a precipitous part of the mountain, there is an observation pavilion where visitors can climb to enjoy a panoramic view of Tianshui City. Additionally, on the mountainside behind Nanguo Temple, there is a patch of natural poplar forest—the only one within the ancient city of Tianshui—which is lush and green, adding vitality and verdancy to the temple. Temple History

Nanguo Temple is the foremost Buddhist temple in Longyou. It is a cultural relic protection unit of Tianshui City, Gansu Province, and a patriotic education base. The temple has a long history; during the Song Dynasty, it was called “Miaosheng Monastery,” and in the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Qianlong bestowed upon it the name “Huguo Chanlin Monastery.” The exact time of its initial construction remains uncertain due to a lack of definitive historical records, with various theories suggesting it was built in the “late Spring and Autumn period,” the “early Eastern Han Dynasty,” or the “early Sui and Tang Dynasties.” These views are mostly speculative and lack sufficient evidence, making them hard to verify. Modern scholars, represented by Mr. Dong Qingye, propose that it was built during the “Northern Dynasties,” a theory supported by historical research and logical coherence, and thus widely accepted. According to this view, Nanguo Temple has existed for approximately 1,600 years. Through the vicissitudes of time, its relics remain, a treasure of Chinese civilization that the people of Tianshui take pride in. Nanguo Temple is located in a mountain valley on Huìyīn Mountain, two kilometers south of Tianshui City. It houses poetic works by Li Bai and Du Fu—regarded as twin stars in the history of Chinese literature—that praise Nanguo Temple, the Shrine of Du Gongbu (Du Fu), and the “Spring Cypresses of the Spring and Autumn Period,” considered “rare treasures” and cultural relics. Nanguo Temple is honored as the foremost temple. Temple Features

With a history of over a thousand years, the temple has been a destination for poets and scholars throughout the ages. The great Tang Dynasty poet Du Fu wrote more than a hundred poems of praise, among which one—“On the mount’s head stands Nanguo Temple fair; / Northward the spring flows with murmuring air. / In the courtyard grow old trees so tall; / Through the town runs a clear stream by the wall. / At the foot of cliffs autumn flowers bloom; / By the bell at night the sunset looms. / Gazing on all, I sigh o’er my fate; / The brookside breeze makes me desolate.”—is particularly well-known. The temple preserves three sections of the *Sutra Pillar of the Uṣṇīṣa Vijaya Dhāraṇī* from the third year of the Qiande era (921 AD) of the Former Shu, a stone inscription from the second level of a new brick pagoda at Miaosheng Monastery in the Southern Qin Mountains by Monk Huibao in the sixth year of Xining (1073 AD) of the Song Dynasty, and three Qing Dynasty stone tablets that detail the temple’s restorations through the ages. The existing structures were renovated and expanded during the Shunzhi, Qianlong, and Guangxu eras of the Qing Dynasty. The Guan Yu Shrine was built in the 60th year of Qianlong (1795 AD). In the 30th year of Guangxu (1904 AD), other temples were either rebuilt or newly constructed. To commemorate the great poet Du Fu, the “East Chanlin Monastery” was renamed the Du Shaoling Shrine in the same year. The remaining three archway-style gates, the Heavenly King Hall, the Mahavira Hall, the East and West Side Halls, and the Octagonal Pavilion were either newly built or renovated with funding from the municipal government and the Urban Construction Commission. In front of the western archway of Nanguo Temple stand two thousand-year-old locust trees with trunks over seven meters in girth, their gnarled branches reaching for the clouds and dense leaves shading the sun. Within the courtyard, two 2,300- to 2,500-year-old ancient cypresses, slanting north and south, are enclosed by brick railings. One of them, facing south, has dark, frost-like bark, a trunk dry as purple, shooting straight into the sky, yet its top remains lush and youthful, with thriving branches and leaves. The branch facing northwest has withered, while the one facing north skillfully leans on a locust tree branch. More miraculously, within its split, dead trunk, a 108-cm-girth black egg tree (hackberry) grows parasitically, “dependent on each other for survival” with the old tree. It is said to be the only one of its kind in the country, leaving all who see it in awe. This is the “old tree” mentioned by Du Fu. The entire temple is divided into east, central, and west courtyards by three mountain gates, featuring a unique structure with numerous lifelike Buddha statues. Inside the central gate are front and back courtyards, with side towers to the east and west in the front courtyard, and the Bell and Drum Towers behind, along with Chanlin Side Halls on the east and west. The west side remains the "Chanlin Monastery," while the east is the "Du Shaoling Shrine," housing three statues of Du Fu and his attendants. The back courtyard contains a grand, three-bay, two-courtyard Mahavira Hall. Originally, a plaque inscribed with the majestic calligraphy of Northern Song Dynasty master painter and calligrapher Mi Fu reading “No. 1 Mountain” hung here. The east mountain gate is a three-bay, hanging-roof-style archway. The courtyard includes the Guan Yu Shrine, and a newly built Octagonal Pavilion in front of the East Courtyard Guanyin Hall houses the clear and sweet-tasting, ever-flowing North Flow Spring. Lush forests surround the temple, embracing Nanguo Temple tightly. From atop the mountain, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. Also called Miaosheng Monastery and commonly known as “April 8th Mountain,” Nanguo Temple is located in a mountain valley on Huìyīn Mountain, east of Longwanggou, two kilometers south of Tianshui City. Nestled against the mountain and near the water, it boasts a majestic presence. Facing the Jishui River in front and backed by secluded woods, with ancient cypresses and towering locust trees, and the North Flow Spring running by, it is a picturesque spot renowned as the site of the “Ancient Cypresses of the South Mountain,” one of the ancient “Eight Scenic Spots of Qinzhou,” and honored as the foremost temple of Tianshui. Nanguo Temple faces south and is composed of three mountain gates from west to east, forming the West, Central, and East Courtyards. The West Courtyard is the main part of Nanguo Temple, including the mountain gate, Bell and Drum Towers, Mahavira Hall, East and West Side Halls, East and West Chanlin Monasteries, and the Reclining Buddha Hall. Among these, the towering Tang Dynasty locust tree in front of the mountain gate and the ancient cypress slanting across the courtyard in the Mahavira Hall are considered rare treasures. The East Chanlin Monastery serves as a memorial shrine, with statues of the Poet Sage Du Fu and his two sons, Zongwen and Zongwu. The West Chanlin Monastery now functions as the reception and office area of Nanguo Temple Park. Adjacent to the West Chanlin Monastery is the Reclining Buddha Hall, which houses a reclining jade Buddha from Myanmar. The hall originally had a seven-story memorial stupa made of brick and sarira, which has since collapsed. The Central Courtyard includes the Guan Yu Shrine, also called the God of Wealth Shrine. Legend says it was once the scripture depository of Nanguo Temple, destroyed by fire, and rebuilt as the Guan Yu Shrine, Rose Garden, Bonsai Garden, and Flower Rack Corridor during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty on its original site. The East Courtyard features the renowned North Flow Spring and a newly built “Er Miao Xuan” Poetry Stele Corridor, as well as a Plum Garden. Northwest of Nanguo Temple, there is also a General Memorial Pavilion displaying portraits and achievements of General Deng Baoshan, now designated as a “Patriotic Education Base.” Natural Landscape

Backed by verdant mountains and facing water, Nanguo Temple is a sacred site of Zen Buddhism. Today, the ancient cypresses that the Tang Dynasty Poet Sage Du Fu once climbed to recite poetry remain lush and sweeping, the towering locust trees stand majestically, and the North Flow Spring offers sweet and refreshing water. The Buddhist halls, with their upturned eaves and grand, solemn atmosphere, are imposing. All three mountain gates face south, with walls stretching east and west. The buildings inside are laid out along the terrain, forming a complex of three tiers and seven courtyards. The overall structure aligns the three mountain gates and three main halls along a vertical axis, divided into east, central, and west courtyards, interconnected through gates in partition walls. In the southern suburbs of Tianshui City, Gansu Province, lies Huìyīn Mountain, a uniquely shaped and beautifully scenic peak. Huìyīn Mountain is an offshoot of the Sun Mountain. The main peak of Sun Mountain is located about 25 kilometers due south of Qincheng District, with an elevation of 2,059 meters. It is a densely forested, rugged, and majestic mountain. Its ridges extend in all directions, radiating like the sun, and is praised by locals as the “Mountain of Blessings and Wisdom.” Among its ridges is a northern offshoot called Panlong Mountain, which stretches like a coiling green dragon toward Qincheng and the river, in a posture of “playing with water and embracing a pearl.” This “dragon” is further divided by Longwanggou into two mountains: one called Wenfeng Mountain, the other Huìyīn Mountain. Also known as Huìyìng Mountain, the name “Huìyīn” originates from Buddhist terminology, meaning to inspire wisdom and guide enlightenment. With an elevation of 1,136–1,389 meters and a height difference of 226 meters, the mountain has a slope of 12.4° and a rather unique shape resembling a farmer’s winnowing basket, forming a semi-circular hollow. Within this hollow lies an open platform where Nanguo Temple is situated. Huìyīn Mountain is also considered a feng shui treasure land, historically praised as having “spiritual intelligence in the mountain, divine spirits in the water, and a gathering of outstanding people and beautiful scenery.” The so-called “spiritual intelligence in the mountain” refers to the ancient Nanguo Temple, located in the recessed area of the mountain peak, a long-standing and widely renowned Buddhist temple. The fame of this ancient temple comes not only from its location in a spectacular landscape but also from the poem “On the Mount’s Head Stands Nanguo Temple” by the Tang Dynasty Poet Sage Du Fu. The temple is celebrated through poetry, passed down through the ages. There is also a five-character poem titled “Nanshan Temple,” traditionally attributed to the Poet Immortal Li Bai, though its authorship remains unconfirmed. However, this poem has been passed down for a thousand years and is considered one of the cultural legacies of Nanguo Temple, often praised as an excellent poem about the temple. The so-called “divine spirits in the water” refer to the pool in the East Courtyard of Nanguo Temple, known as the North Flow Spring in Du Fu’s poem. For thousands of years, the spring water has flowed continuously in all seasons, neither shrinking nor swelling in drought or flood, with clear, sweet water that is considered a miraculous and sacred spring by the locals. Drinking it is believed to cure illnesses, making it the foremost spring in Longshang. Nanguo Temple enjoys its reputation as a place of “spiritual intelligence and blessings” due to its location in such a unique landscape. Each courtyard forms an independent quadrangle yet is interdependent, separated by parapets and accessible through moon gates. Entering one gate allows access to seven courtyards. The seven courtyards are: the East Courtyard has two connected courtyards; the Central Courtyard is a single courtyard; the West Courtyard has four connected courtyards. The West Courtyard includes a Sui Dynasty brick pagoda (recorded). The temple complex includes 28 buildings such as halls, meditation rooms, towers, pavilions, and archways, totaling over 80 rooms, covering an area of 26,700 square meters. The West Courtyard is the main architectural complex of Nanguo Temple. Visitors enter via a winding mountain path and steps. In front of the courtyard stand two locust trees with gnarled branches shading the sun and dense leaves. The first structure is a hanging-flower-style archway mountain gate, with a plaque inscribed with “Nanguo Temple” in the handwriting of Zhao Puchu, Vice Chairman of the National Committee of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference and President of the Buddhist Association of China. Inside to the left is the Bell Tower, to the right the Drum Tower. The front courtyard has two side courtyards: the east is the “Du Shaoling Shrine,” and the west is the “Chanlin” courtyard. The first hall in the front courtyard is the “Heavenly King Hall,” a three-bay, hanging-roof structure with a five-rafter, lifted-beam front porch design. The plaque above the door bears a copy of the running script “No. 1 Mountain” by Mi Fu, a calligrapher of the Northern Song Dynasty. The couplet reads: “The Buddhist realm is boundless; look at the layers of Huì Mountain, with thousands of peaks standing tall beyond the railing. The flowing spring remains pure, laughing as it rushes out, with the river embracing the city from a hundred li away.” In the front are statues of Maitreya Buddha and Skanda (Weituo). The painted clay sculptures of the Four Heavenly Kings (the Four Great Generals) are displayed, followed by the main hall in the back courtyard, the Mahavira Hall. The central plaque above the main gate of the hall bears the inscription “Should Have No Attachment” in the handwriting of Zhou Zhaoyi, a local celebrity and contemporary artist from Tianshui. Nanguo Temple is located on Huìyīn Mountain, two kilometers south of Tianshui City. Its long history is unclear, but based on the poems of Du Fu, the Tang Dynasty poet who visited Qinzhou, the temple was already quite prominent during the Tang Dynasty. It houses attractions such as the Heavenly King Hall, Bell and Drum Towers, Chanlin Monastery, Guan Yu Shrine, Du Shaoling Shrine, and the North Flow Spring, as well as the “Tang Dynasty Locust Trees and Han Dynasty Cypresses,” whose dark foliage reaches the sky. It is now a municipal cultural relic protection unit and one of the city’s popular tourist destinations. The temple architecture

The center and main body of Nanguo Temple’s ancient architecture consists of 28 buildings, including halls, meditation rooms, towers, pavilions, and archways, totaling over 80 rooms, covering an area of 26,700 square meters. It is divided into the West, Central, and East Courtyards by three mountain gates from west to east. The West Courtyard is the main part of Nanguo Temple, including the mountain gate, Bell and Drum Towers, Mahavira Hall, East and West Side Halls, East and West Chanlin Monasteries, and the Reclining Buddha Hall. The Reclining Buddha Hall, adjacent to the West Chanlin Monastery, houses a reconstructed Reclining Buddha Hall from the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty. The Central Courtyard includes a three-bay Guan Yu Shrine, a structure from the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty.

The East Courtyard includes ancient structures such as a horse stable and the Jiuchi Palace, dating from the late Qing Dynasty and early Republican period, with high cultural research value. A newly built “Er Miao Xuan” Poetry Stele Corridor is located in the East Courtyard, south of the North Flow Spring. The stele corridor is 35.6 meters long and 4.36 meters high, built in an antique style. Historical relics and artifacts include the Sui Dynasty Pagoda, which is the stupa in the Reclining Buddha Hall courtyard of Nanguo Temple. Historical records indicate it was built in the second year of the Renshou era of the Sui Dynasty (602 AD) but collapsed due to earthquakes. The base remains, and it is speculated that beneath the base lies a reliquary chamber containing sarira, offering extremely high historical and archaeological value. The *Dhāraṇī Sutra Pillar* is a relic from the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, with three surviving fragments, serving as important evidence for studying the history of Nanguo Temple. Artistic and cultural inscriptions and plaques abound in Nanguo Temple, including: 1. The plaque inscribed with “Nanguo Temple” hanging above the west mountain gate, written by Zhao Puchu. 2. The plaque in the Heavenly King Hall bearing a copy of the running script “No. 1 Mountain.” 3. The plaque in the Mahavira Hall inscribed with “Should Have No Attachment,” written by Zhou Zhaoyi, a local celebrity and contemporary artist from Tianshui. The central couplet was composed by Zhang Pengju, vice president of the Tianshui Poetry Society and editor-in-chief of *Weibin Yinci* Poetry Journal, and calligraphed by Li Quan. It reads: “East or West, the sacred roots of the ancient cypresses are one; wind moves, or does the banner? The North Flow Spring remains crystal clear.” 4. The Reclining Buddha Hall displays a plaque reading “Attained Supreme Freedom” and a pair of wood-carved couplets, both composed and written by Huo Songlin, an internationally renowned literary figure, academician of the State Council’s Academic Division, professor at Shaanxi Normal University, and director of the Literature Research Institute. They were carved by Wu Yongchang, a famous woodcarving artist from Gansu Province. The couplets read: “The Dharma rain falls frequently; listen to the spring tide of the Wei River rise. The Buddha’s light shines universally; reclining, watch the auspicious air of Qincheng rise.” 5. The plaque in the east courtyard mountain gate is inscribed with “Nanguo Temple” in the handwriting of Sha Menghai, a calligrapher. In front of the pavilion in the courtyard hangs a plaque reading “North Flow Spring.” 6. The entrance to the Du Shaoling Shrine displays a vertical plaque inscribed with “Du Shaoling Shrine” by the Qing Dynasty Qinzhou Prefect Zhang. Inside the entrance are plaques inscribed with “Full of Solitary Indignation” by the loyal general Zhou Wuxue. The main hall of the shrine displays a plaque inscribed with “Poetry History Hall” by Huo Songlin, and the pillars feature a couplet composed by the Qing Dynasty poet Xie Weifeng, calligraphed in regular script by Mao Xuexuan: “The bright moon over the Long head inspires lofty thoughts; the autumn wind of Shu brings many aging reflections.” 7. In the center of the Deng Baoshan General Memorial Pavilion hangs a plaque inscribed with “Deng Baoshan General Memorial Pavilion.” 8. The Poetry Steles are not only a key scenic feature of Nanguo Temple but also reflect its cultural sophistication. Located in the newly built “Er Miao Xuan” Poetry Stele Corridor in the East Courtyard, they integrate the calligraphy of masters such as Wang Xizhi and Wang Xianzhi, hence called “Er Miao” (Two Marvels). When the new “Er Miao Xuan” Stele Corridor was built, engravings were also made of inscriptions and prefaces by modern figures such as Wang Kuan, Feng Guorui, and Huo Songlin, as well as reprints of the “Er Miao Xuan” Calligraphy Preface and calligraphy works from Qinzhou by Wang Feng, He Shaoji, and Yu Youren. Religious art is well represented in Nanguo Temple through its statues, including: - The Heavenly King Hall: Maitreya Buddha, Skanda, the Four Heavenly Kings - The Mahavira Hall: painted clay sculptures of Sakyamuni Buddha, the Medicine Buddha of Longevity and Elimination of Disasters, Amitabha Buddha, Kasyapa and Ananda disciples, Guanyin Bodhisattva, and Mahasthamaprapta Bodhisattva - The East Side Hall: a bronze seated statue of the Earth Store Bodhisattva - The West Side Hall: a jade Guanyin Bodhisattva statue - The Reclining Buddha Hall: a jade reclining Buddha from Myanmar

The Central Courtyard’s God of Wealth Hall houses a seated statue of the Three Kingdoms general Guan Yu. The Du Shaoling Shrine contains a Qing Dynasty painted clay statue of Du Fu, along with two attendant statues depicting his legendary sons, Zongwen and Zongwu, as his scribes. The above statues are exquisitely crafted, with vivid expressions, and hold high artistic and ornamental value. Modern Architecture: 1. Deng Pavilion: Located about 200 meters northwest of Nanguo Temple, the main pavilion is seven bays wide, 6.85 meters high, 27 meters long, and 10.3 meters wide, covering an area of 277 square meters. It is a blue-brick, hip-and-gable roof, rolled shed-style building, simple and elegant, majestic in scale. In 1995, the Gansu Provincial Party Committee designated the “Deng Baoshan General Memorial Pavilion” as a “Gansu Provincial Patriotic Education Base.” 2. Mountain Gate Area Buildings: A group of antique-style buildings, this is a large-scale, modern architectural investment in the park’s recent construction. It mainly includes a four-pillar, six-story antique archway-style mountain gate, 13.2 meters high and 24 meters wide; two corridors, totaling 126 meters in length and 460 square meters in floor area, with elegant designs, exquisite craftsmanship, and elaborate paintings; a reception hall, 837.2 square meters in size, with carved beams and painted rafters, reflecting a perfect blend of classical style and modern technology; and two groups of buildings on the east and west sides of the archway-style mountain gate. The east side includes six antique-style buildings.

Cultural Landscapes

The Fuxi Temple Fair on the 16th day of the first lunar month and the Fuxi Cultural Festival on the 13th day of the fifth lunar month. The people of Tianshui have a tea-drinking custom, with Tianshui Tank Tea being a remnant of the ancient city’s traditions. In the autumn of 759 AD, when Du Fu, weathered and weary, entered Qinzhou and this long-obscure little temple, perhaps no one could have imagined how profoundly and enduringly one person could change the course of history. Title card: Wind and Snow at Nanguo Temple. From then on, the dust of the world grew distant, the mountain high, the moonlit night cold. The eastern spring is crystal clear, the western pagoda touches the sky. The Buddha’s lamp shines constantly, the meditation room’s incense burns halfway. A few old monks, ancient cypresses for thousands of years. This poem, titled “Nanshan Temple,” is said to be by Li Bai, and the Nanshan Temple mentioned is today’s Nanguo Temple. Li Bai, supposedly from Qin’an, whether he ever came to Tianshui or visited Nanguo Temple remains a mystery due to lack of evidence. But Du Fu, hailed as one of the “Twin Peaks” of classical Chinese poetry alongside Li Bai, in the autumn of 759 AD, truly entrusted his weary, weather-beaten soul to the ancient, magical land of Qinzhou. “Grieving over the sorrows of life before my eyes, I wander far relying on others. Hesitant, I cross the Long Mountains; vast and mighty, I reach the Pass in sorrow.” Living in a time when the Tang Dynasty transitioned from prosperity to decline, Du Fu, brimming with talent yet unable to serve his country, with lofty aspirations yet a fate full of setbacks. Though he held minor official positions, the incompetence of the emperor, the dominance of corrupt officials, coupled with the An Lushan Rebellion and consecutive years of famine, the harsh reality of a people in misery led Du Fu to resign and journey afar.

In July 759 AD, Du Fu resigned from office, took his family, crossed the Long Mountains, and sought refuge with his nephew Du Zuo in Qinzhou and his friend Zan Gong. One can imagine the unspeakable sorrow in Du Fu’s heart as he trekked through mountains and rivers. A man devoted to his country and people, a poet dreaming of a peaceful era, when years of ideals shattered in an instant, what desolation and grief must have surged in Du Fu’s heart? Though it was only July, I imagine there must have been a vast, silent snowfall, quietly falling into Du Fu’s scarred soul. “Boundless mountains, a lonely city in the valley. No wind, yet the frontier emerges; no night, yet the moon hangs over the Pass. Why do the dependent states return so late? Why haven’t the Loulan heads been severed? Gazing at the endless dust, the withering scene breaks my heart.” Title card: Wind and Snow at Nanguo Temple. The simple people of Qinzhou welcomed Du Fu with open arms. The friendship of his nephew Du Zuo and friend Zan Gong also brought long-lost warmth to Du Fu’s heart. But it is moving that Du Fu still lived a life of extreme hardship in Qinzhou. Aside from occasional help from relatives and friends, Du Fu could only collect and sell medicinal herbs to make ends meet, sometimes even picking acorns to stave off hunger. It was in such extreme poverty that Du Fu climbed Nanguo Temple and left behind this immortal poem, ensuring the everlasting fame of Qinzhou and Nanguo Temple: “On the mount’s head stands Nanguo Temple, / Northward the spring flows with murmuring air. / In the courtyard grow old trees so tall; / Through the town runs a clear stream by the wall. / At the foot of cliffs autumn flowers bloom; / By the bell at night the sunset looms. / Gazing on all, I sigh o’er my fate; / The brookside breeze makes me desolate.” The lush Ancient Cypresses of the South Mountain are happy, the clear North Flow Spring is joyful, and Nanguo Temple, waiting silently for nearly a thousand years, is fortunate. For it witnessed the tortuous inner journey of a great poet, sharing his indescribable prolonged pain and brief joys. But Qinzhou is filled with helplessness and sorrow. This magical land that nurtured countless heroes could not offer the poet a eternal sanctuary for his soul. The unsustainable hardships of life and the threat of Tibetan invasion forced Du Fu, after three months of wandering, to leave behind over a hundred excellent poems and bid farewell to Nanguo Temple, drifting south to Tonggu. He left Qinzhou with a desolate silhouette forever etched in memory—an unforgettable, haunting figure. That was the silhouette of a poet, a dynasty, a history. On that day, Qinzhou experienced a rare, vast snowfall. Amid the heavy, falling snowflakes, Nanguo Temple stood quietly outside the city of Qinzhou, enveloped in a snowy haze. Nanguo Temple is composed of three archway-style gates, each forming the central axis of the East, Central, and West Courtyards. The Central Courtyard includes front and back courtyards, with side towers to the east and west in the front courtyard, and the Bell and Drum Towers behind, along with Chanlin Side Halls on the east and west. The west side remains the “Chanlin Monastery,” while the east is the Du Shaoling Shrine, housing three statues of Du Fu and his attendants. The back courtyard contains a grand, three-bay, two-courtyard Mahavira Hall. The courtyard has a 2,300–2,500-year-old three-branched ancient cypress, with the south-facing branch having dark, frost-like bark, a trunk dry as firewood, shooting straight into the sky, yet its top remains lush and youthful, with thriving branches and leaves. The northwest-facing branch has withered. The north-facing branch skillfully leans on a locust tree branch. More miraculously, within its split, dead trunk, a black egg tree (hackberry) with a 108-cm girth grows parasitically, sharing a life with the old tree. It is said to be the only one of its kind in China. The east courtyard’s Guanyin Hall has an octagonal, pointed-roof pavilion.

In July 759 AD, Du Fu resigned from his official post, took his family, crossed the Long Mountains, and made his way to Qin Prefecture to seek refuge with his nephew Du Zuo and his friend Zan Gong. One can only imagine the unspoken sorrow that weighed on Du Fu’s heart as he trekked through mountains and rivers. A man devoted to his country and its people, a poet who dreamed of an era of peace and prosperity—when years of aspirations crumbled to dust in an instant, what desolation and anguish must have surged within Du Fu’s soul? Though it was only July, I imagine that at that moment, a vast, silent snowfall must have gently drifted down, settling upon Du Fu’s scarred and weary heart. Endless mountains loomed, and a lone city nestled between valleys. Clouds moved without wind toward the frontier; the moon shed its light on the border passes without awaiting nightfall. Why do the dependent states return so late? The Loulan warriors were sent but never came back. A haze of dust stretched far as I gazed ahead; the withering scene only deepened my sorrow. **Title Card: Snowstorm at Nan Guo Temple** The simple and generous people of Qin Prefecture embraced Du Fu with open arms. The kinship of his nephew Du Zuo and the friendship of Zan Gong also brought long-absent warmth to the poet’s heart. Yet it is poignant that even in Qin Prefecture, Du Fu continued to live a life of extreme hardship, often struggling to feed himself. Aside from the occasional support from relatives and friends, Du Fu had to gather and dry medicinal herbs to sell for extra income, and at times, he even resorted to picking acorns to stave off hunger. It was in such abject poverty that Du Fu ascended Nan Guo Temple and left behind this timeless poem, one that would eternally link Qin Prefecture and Nan Guo Temple in history: **On the Mountain: Nan Guo Temple** By the mountain stands Nan Guo Temple, To the north flows the Spring. In the empty courtyard grows an ancient tree, A clear canal runs through town. Autumn flowers nestle by rugged stones, An old bell lies by evening light. Looking up and down, I grieve for my life, The stream breeze sighs in chill. The lush ancient cypresses of the southern hills are fortunate; the crystal-clear waters of the North Flowing Spring are fortunate; and Nan Guo Temple, which waited silently for nearly a thousand years, is fortunate. For they bore witness to the tumultuous inner journey of a great poet, sharing in his unspoken enduring pain and fleeting joys. But Qin Prefecture was left with helplessness and sorrow. This magical land, which had nurtured countless heroes, could not offer the poet a permanent sanctuary for his soul. Unable to sustain his livelihood and facing the looming threat of a Tibetan invasion, Du Fu, after three months of wandering, left behind over a hundred outstanding poems, bid farewell to Nan Guo Temple, and journeyed southward to Tonggu. He left behind an indelible, haunting silhouette in Qin Prefecture. That was the silhouette of a poet, of a dynasty, of history—on that day, an unusual, heavy snow fell over Qin Prefecture. Amid the solemnly drifting snowflakes, Nan Guo Temple stood quietly outside the city, enveloped in a vast expanse of wind and snow. Nan Guo Temple is composed of three large courtyards, each centered around a memorial archway-style gate, forming the east, central, and west sections. Inside the central gate are front and rear courtyards; the front courtyard has east and west viewing pavilions, while the rear houses the bell and drum towers and east-west meditation courtyards. The western section still serves as the “Meditation Courtyard,” while the eastern section is the **Du Shaoling Shrine**, which features three statues: Du Fu and his two attendants. The rear courtyard holds a grand, three-bay, two-courtyard Hall of Heavenly Kings. Within the temple grounds stands an ancient cypress tree, 2,300 to 2,500 years old, with three trunks. The southern trunk, dark and weathered, is as dry as firewood yet soars straight toward the sky, though its top remains vibrant with lush foliage. The northwest trunk has withered. The northern trunk ingeniously leans over a branch of a locust tree. More remarkably, within its split, dead trunk lives a parasitic *Celtis sinensis* (nettle tree), which clings to the old cypress in a shared life. According to research, this is the only such tree in China. In the eastern courtyard, in front of the Guanyin Hall, there is an octagonal, pointed-roof pavilion.

Buddha Statues in the Temple

Nanguo Temple is a large temple complex, divided into West, Central, and East Courtyards. The West Courtyard is the main area, home to diverse Buddha statues, with most of the architecturally unique halls concentrated here. Each hall houses Buddha statues. The Heavenly King Hall features a big-bellied Maitreya Buddha statue in the center, flanked by two thought-provoking couplets: “The big belly can contain—everything under heaven and earth, accepting all; the smiling mouth laughs—at all things past and present, taking everything lightly.” On either side of Maitreya are seated statues of the “Four Heavenly Kings.” Behind Maitreya, facing south, stands a solemn statue of Skanda (Weituo), holding a demon club, his expression wise and alert, like a dutiful guardian deity. The Mahavira Hall mainly houses statues of the “Three Buddhas,” “Two Disciples,” and “Two Bodhisattvas.” The “Three Buddhas” refer to Sakyamuni Buddha, the Medicine Buddha of the Eastern Pure Lapis Lazuli World, and Amitabha Buddha of the Western Pure Land. The “Two Disciples” are the two disciples of Sakyamuni: Kasyapa and Ananda. The “Two Bodhisattvas” are Guanyin Bodhisattva and Mahasthamaprapta Bodhisattva. In short, every hall has a Buddha, and each Buddha has a unique form, with sculptors crafting distinct personalities and appearances based on each Buddha’s “duties.” The artistic styles of these Buddha statues reflect the plump, rich forms of the Tang Dynasty or the slender, wise elegance of the Northern Wei Dynasty. The West Side Hall was recently restored and is quite magnificent, but the Buddha pedestal inside is empty, drawing complaints from visitors. Originally, it housed three over two-meter-tall, gilded copper seated Buddha statues. These were brought to China from India with great difficulty by eminent monks during the Song Dynasty. Originally eight in number, four went to the Central Plains (none remain), one stayed in central China west of Lanzhou (perhaps at the Five Springs Mountain in Lanzhou, still extant), and the remaining three resided at Nanguo Temple for nearly a thousand years. Despite earthquakes and wars, they were carefully protected by monks and laypeople, remaining intact until the early 1960s. The statues were exquisitely crafted, with slender bone structures, deep-set spiral hair, draped in thin robes, and solemn expressions. Their style is connected to the early clay sculpture Buddha statues of Maijishan. The Maijishan statues are exquisite examples of China’s clay sculpture art, and these three gilded copper Buddha statues are masterpieces of Indian Buddhist art. They are historical testimonies to the eastward spread of Buddhist culture and treasures of Sino-Indian cultural exchange. Their immense historical and artistic value is a source of pride for generations of people in Qinzhou. Tragically, these three national-grade cultural relics tragically did not survive the catastrophe of the Cultural Revolution.

Recommended Travel Season for Nanguo Temple: Summer is the best time to visit Nanguo Temple. While other places swelter in intense heat, Nanguo Temple remains pleasantly cool. In the height of summer, when you ascend to Nanguo Temple atop the southern mountain of Tianshui, the gentle breeze brings immense comfort. Transportation: Take bus 9 to Nanguo Road, then walk up the mountain. The hike takes about 30 minutes. Accommodation: Nanguo Temple is located atop the southern mountain of Tianshui. There is a star-rated hotel at the mountaintop—Nanyuan Mountain Villa—offering superior conditions and a tranquil environment, an ideal lodging choice for travelers. Nanguo Temple is also not far from the city, so you can stay in city hotels such as Jinlong Grand Hotel or Tianshui Hotel. Food: Around Nanguo Temple, you can sample famous Tianshui snacks such as Tianshui Jiangshui, Guagua, Niangpi, Da Lu Mian, Zhuyou Box, Roujiamo, Mashimian, Qin’an Duchisoup, and Qin’an Mafumantou.

Time Needed

1 hour

Transportation

Take bus 9 within the city to Nanguo Road, then walk up the mountain; in Qinzhou city, a taxi costs 10 RMB to the mountain foot. If you don’t want to hike for 30 minutes, you can negotiate with the driver for around 30 RMB to drive up.

Ticket Price

Regular ticket: 20 RMB/person; seniors over 60 with ID, minors, and students: half-price 10 RMB; free entry for seniors with Gansu Senior Preferential Certificates, active-duty military, disabled individuals, and children under 1.4m; “April 8th” ticket: 2 RMB/person; guide service fee: 40 RMB per group under 20 people, 1.5 RMB per additional person over 20.

Opening Hours

Peak season: 8:00–18:00 (March–November); off-season: 8:30–17:30 (December–February)

Location

Wangjiaping Village, Qinzhou District, Tianshui City, Gansu Province