Yanjing Ancient Salt Fields in Markam County

Yanjing Ancient Salt Fields in Markam County

The Yanjing Ancient Salt Fields in Markam County are a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.

The ancient salt fields have a long history, dating back over 1,300 years. On the beaches and steep cliffs along both the eastern and western banks of the Lancang River, there are more than 3,200 layers of salt fields, producing millions of kilograms of salt annually. Here, you can observe the entire process of handmade salt production, as well as unique and primitive tools, diligent and simple salt farmers, and the unspoiled local customs. The China Tea Horse Road Tibet Yanjing Historical and Cultural Exhibition Hall is China's first exhibition hall dedicated to the history of the Tea Horse Road. The Quzika Hot Spring Group consists of 108 hot springs, known as “a hundred springs reflecting the moon,” with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 80°C. These springs contain over twenty types of minerals, making them top-tier among hot springs and a natural spa.

The Yanjing Ancient Salt Fields are located in the Naxi Ethnic Township of Markam County, about 107 kilometers from the county seat, on both sides of the Lancang River along National Highway 214, at an altitude of around 2,300 meters.

“Yanjing,” meaning “salt well,” gets its name from salt production. Its Tibetan name is “Tshaka Lo,” where “Tsha” means salt—it is literally a place where salt is produced. According to historical records, salt production by solar evaporation has been practiced here since the Tang Dynasty, over 1,200 years ago. The area features simple local customs; when you see the stalactite-like salt crystals inside houses, they will transport you to a crystal palace, presenting a spectacular natural wonder.

Salt production is essential for the survival of the people of Yanjing and one of their main sources of income. Currently, there are 3,454 salt fields, with 64 people solely engaged in salt production, and 2,013 people combining farming or herding with salt work. The method of salt production is unique, ancient, and primitive in the world. Workers climb down ladders into pits several to over ten meters deep, carry brine up, and pour it into the salt fields. Through intense sunlight, the water gradually evaporates, leaving behind salt crystals. The salt is then dried and brought to market for trade. Each salt field yields about a dozen kilograms of salt, which is swept up every three to five days—or about fifteen days during bad weather. The highest yield and best quality salt are produced during the peach blossom season, around February and March in the lunar calendar, commanding higher prices. Annual salt production is about 3 million kilograms, generating income of approximately 1 to 1.3 million yuan. The salt has a broad market, being sold not only to Gongjue, Chaya, Zogang, Baxoi, Markam in Chamdo, and Zayü in Nyingchi, but also to Batang, Litang, and Kangding in Sichuan, and Deqen, Shangri-La, and Weixi in Yunnan. Salt is mainly traded through barter with grain, especially favored in pastoral areas where locals claim it makes livestock grow stronger and produce more meat.

Yanjing is a blessed land. The Yanjing Village is nestled in the embrace of the mountain god, as it has been a vital transportation hub since ancient times—first as an important stop on the Tea Horse Road, and now as part of National Highway 214.

It has always been a distribution center for various goods.

Yanjing has a long history. Even before the Tibetan Tubo Dynasty, when various Tibetan tribes occupied their own territories, salt fields existed here. Legend says that among the “Six Ranges of Dokham,” Markam Range was known for salt production. The legendary battle between King Gesar and the Naxi King Qiangba over Yanjing’s salt fields is called the “Qiangling Battle.” Eventually, King Gesar defeated Qiangba, took control of Yanjing, captured the Naxi prince Yula, and later, during the late Tubo Dynasty, Prince Yula became a Naxi minister to King Gesar. The salt fields were given to him, and to this day, the most ancient and primitive salt production methods remain in use.

The iron-chain wooden bridge in Yanjing has been a main channel for political, economic, and cultural exchanges between Tibetans and Han people since the opening of the Tea Horse Road. Before liberation, many horse caravans from Deqen, Markam, Chamdo in Yunnan, and Batang in Sichuan gathered there to trade various goods, including Tibetan salt, wool, sheepskin, cashmere, highland barley, and Han commodities such as tea, hada, porcelain bowls, cloth, brown sugar, white sugar, vermicelli, and rice. Transporting goods often involved dangers, so the safest measure on the Tea Horse Road was for caravan groups to travel together. They traveled during the day, and at night, some rested while others kept watch. The largest caravans had over 700 horses and more than 70 people. They valued trust and unity, enduring hardships together along the Tea Horse Road and making remarkable contributions to Tibetan-Han cultural and economic exchanges.

The salt produced in Yanjing has some unique characteristics. For example, on the western bank of the Lancang River, where the terrain is gentle, the salt fields are wider, and the salt produced is light red—hence called Peach Blossom Salt or Red Salt—due to the peak harvest season typically falling

between March and May. On the eastern bank, the terrain is narrower, and the salt fields are more scattered, but the salt produced is pure white, called White Salt. The color difference between red and white salt is related to soil composition. Red salt has higher yields but lower prices, while white salt, mostly produced on the highlands of the eastern bank, is scarcer and slightly more expensive. Generations of salt miners in Yanjing dread prolonged rainy or cloudy weather, as insufficient sunlight leads to slow and meager salt production and increases the risk of flooding that can destroy the salt fields. During flood seasons, brine wells may be submerged. The Chamdo region plans to designate the site as a protected “Yanjing Salt Fields Museum.”

Sales channels for the salt:

The salt has a broad market, mainly divided into five key sales regions:

1. Zhongdian and Deqen in Yunnan Province;

2. Batang, Litang, and Ganzi in Sichuan Province;

3. Nyingchi and Lhasa;

4. From Zogang throughout the Chamdo region;

5. The entire Markam County.

Disputes over the salt fields:

“Qiang” refers to the present-day Naxi ethnic group. At the time, the Qiangba people built thick stone and earthen walls called Qiangzong, remnants of which can still be seen. Salt was an essential commodity in the lives of locals. Before the Tibetan Tubo Dynasty, salt was even more valuable than gold, making Yanjing a strategic battleground. Multiple wars over the salt fields occurred here. Currently, salt springs are mainly found on both sides of the Lancang River. In the past, residents on the eastern bank had to pay taxes to a noble from Batang named Bataohuawang (so named because he came to collect taxes when the peach blossoms bloomed), which placed a heavy burden on locals. Life was already difficult, and the extra tax was unbearable. Under these circumstances, the locals decided to eliminate Bataohuawang. When he came to collect taxes, they killed him as planned. To avoid individual blame, every household left a knife mark on his body. Everyone voluntarily shared responsibility. After Bataohuawang’s death, the locals invited the abbot of Bagong Temple, Tuwa, to resolve the matter in Batang. The Batang authorities decided to settle the killing through two competitions: one for physical strength and one for equestrian skills. Tuwa, who possessed great power, won both. According to custom, compensation had to be paid for the victim’s head, ears, and eyes. After valuing those parts, the locals made a lump-sum payment, thus freeing themselves from the tax burden.

In May 2013, the Yanjing Ancient Salt Fields in Markam County were listed as part of the seventh group of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units.

Address: Naxi Ethnic Township, Yanjing Town, Markam County, Chamdo Region

Type: Folk Village

Opening Hours: 8:00–19:00

Ticket Information: Gate Price: 90.0 CNY

Further Reading:

·Seventh Batch of Major National Historical and Cultural Sites