Baishazhou

Baishazhou

Su Shi wrote a poem on Mount Lu titled "Inscription on the Wall of West Forest Temple": "From the side, a whole range; from the front, a single peak. From far or near, high or low, each has its own charm. I cannot tell the true face of Mount Lu, for I am in the mountain myself." This poem is inscribed on the gate of West Forest Temple on Mount Lu. Had Su Shi come to Poyang Lake back then, he might have written: "To know the true face of Mount Lu, one must go to Baishazhou in Poyang." On a clear day, from the viewing platform on Baishazhou, you can see the full reflection of Mount Lu in Poyang Lake. Likewise, Baishazhou is also one of the best spots to observe migratory birds in winter.

The wetland park hosts hundreds of thousands of migratory birds in winter, including 12 species under national first-class protection such as the Siberian crane, white-naped crane, oriental white stork, black stork, and great bustard, over 40 species under national second-class protection such as the spot-billed pelican, Eurasian spoonbill, red-breasted goose, and whooper swan, and 58 species protected at the provincial level. Look ahead—at that snow-white bird with long brownish-yellow blade-like wings and pink legs, standing gracefully and delicately—that’s the Siberian crane, a globally endangered bird species.

The Siberian crane inhabits reed marsh wetlands and is an important species for wetland conservation. It is a national first-class protected animal in China. It feeds on the roots and stems of aquatic plants, as well as small amounts of clams, fish, and snails. When flying, it stretches its neck forward and legs backward, and its call is sharp and resonant, capable of strong echo transmission with sound reaching up to 3–5 kilometers away.

The Siberian crane breeds in southeastern Russia and Siberia, migrates through the Zhalong Nature Reserve in northeastern China, and arrives at Poyang Lake for winter. Over 3,000 gather here each winter. Poyang Lake is the world’s largest wintering site for the Siberian crane, hosting over 98% of the global population. It has become a globally renowned kingdom of these cranes.

See that pure white, gracefully shaped bird? That’s the tundra swan. Swans are large birds—the largest can reach 1.5 meters in length and weigh over 6,000 grams. They are mostly white-feathered, with mostly black bills and yellow coloring from the upper bill to the nostrils. Their long necks, which make up about half their body length, are often held straight while swimming, with wings pressed close. Throughout history, their elegant form has made them symbols of purity and kindness. With graceful posture, they glide solemnly in water and fly with their necks extended and wings slowly flapping. During migration, they fly in diagonal lines or V-formations at high altitudes. Other waterfowl cannot match their speed either in water or air. Swans feed by submerging their heads (not their entire bodies) in shallow water to graze on aquatic plants. Male and female swans look alike and can produce different sounds via their syrinx. Outside breeding season, they live in flocks and form lifelong pairs. Courtship behaviors include beak touching or head leaning. Females incubate the eggs, laying an average of six pale, unmarked eggs per clutch. Males guard the nest; in some species, they also take turns incubating. After repelling threats, swans let out triumphant calls like geese. Cygnets have short necks and dense down; just hours after hatching, they can run and swim, though parents continue caring for them for months; some even ride on their mothers’ backs. Juveniles have gray or brown mottled feathers until over two years old. They reach sexual maturity in their third or fourth year. In the wild, swans can live up to 20 years and over 50 years in exceptional cases.

The wild goose is a national second-class protected animal. Wild geese are a general term for species in the genus Anser, typically characterized by larger bodies, a higher base of the bill, and strong bill plates. They have relatively thick, short necks and plumage mostly in brown, gray, or white. There are nine species worldwide, seven in China, including the swan goose, bean goose, bar-headed goose, and greylag goose—commonly referred to as “wild geese”—with the exception of the greater white-fronted goose.

Wild geese are among the most familiar bird groups. During migration, they gather in dozens, hundreds, or even thousands, flying in close formation. Ancient people called this the “goose formation.” Led by experienced “lead geese,” they fly in V-shape when accelerating, and switch to a straight line formation when slowing down—an efficient strategy for long-distance migration. As the lead goose flaps its wings, it creates a slight updraft, which trailing geese use to conserve energy. But the lead goose, lacking this benefit, tires easily, so the flock frequently rotates positions and lead geese. Their movements are highly disciplined, often accompanied by continuous calls of “yi ya, yi ya.”

Wild geese are highly adaptable omnivorous waterfowl, commonly found near water bodies or wetlands rich in aquatic plants, feeding on non-toxic, odorless wild grasses, forage, grains, as well as snails and shrimp. Sometimes they also roam lakes and prefer staying in water. They are strongly gregarious and competitive. In spring, they move in small groups of 10–20; in winter, hundreds forage and roost together. While resting, some geese keep watch and alert the flock with loud cries upon noticing threats, prompting group escape. Within the flock, hierarchy is established through competition, with the lead goose having priority access to food and rest.

Wild geese typically migrate at dusk or night, frequently stopping at large water bodies like lakes along the way. Each migration takes about 1–2 months, fraught with hardship. But they travel south in autumn and north in spring without fail. No matter where they breed, they always arrive at Poyang Lake for winter with remarkable punctuality.