Former Residence of Sai Jinhua

Former Residence of Sai Jinhua

The former residence of Sai Jinhua is a cultural relic protection unit of Anhui Province.

Former Residence of Sai Jinhua, Qingyi County

In 2003, the Hui-style garden "Guiyuan" (Returning Garden) was restored and renovated on the site of Sai Jinhua's ancestral garden, hence also called the Guiyuan Scenic Area. Situated between two World Heritage sites—Xidi and Hongcun—the restoration used traditional Huizhou gardening methods. Its artificial hills, water management, architecture, and plants differ significantly from gardens in Suzhou, Yangzhou, and other areas of southern China. It officially opened to visitors in May 2004. The scenic area includes Sai’s former home, her study, the well she used, as well as scenic spots such as Crabapple and Pear Blossoms with Moon, Twin Bridges Cutting Spring, Tranquil Reflections with Fishing, Distant Winds Amid Graceful Peaks, and Encircling Greenery in Full Splendor. From historical, cultural, and tourism perspectives, it is a valuable heritage. The Sai Jinhua Memorial Exhibition Hall displays a wealth of historical materials collected from both domestic and international sources, photos of Sai Jinhua from different periods, as well as evaluations of her by notable figures such as Liu Bannong, Lu Xun, and Xia Yan, offering a comprehensive portrayal of her enigmatic life.

Sai Jinhua, originally named Zheng Caiyun, was born in October 1872 in Shangzhou Village, Yi County. At the age of 10, she moved to Huizhou with her father. Due to her family's declining fortunes, the young Sai Jinhua became a "qingxinren"—a performer who sold her art but not her body. Later, she married Hong Jun, the top scholar of the Qing Dynasty, becoming the wife of a scholar-official. As the spouse of a diplomat, she accompanied her husband on missions to Russia, Germany, the Netherlands, and Austria. Because of her diplomatic role, Sai Jinhua frequently attended high-society events in Europe, winning widespread admiration for her beauty, grace, and poise. She was hailed by the German Empress as the “most beautiful woman in the East.” During this time, she met Alfred von Waldersee, who would later become the commander-in-chief of the Eight-Nation Alliance, planting the seeds for her legendary and controversial legacy.

In 1886, while making a living in Suzhou, Sai Jinhua was forced into prostitution after her father’s death left her destitute. At that time, Hong Jun, the top scholar of Suzhou originally from She County, Anhui, was appointed by the imperial court as envoy to Germany, Russia, the Netherlands, and Austria. Since his first wife refused to accompany him, the 50-year-old Hong Jun purchased the 20-something Sai Jinhua as a concubine to serve as his official spouse. He hired tutors to teach her English, German, and French. With her natural beauty and exceptional language skills, Sai Jinhua became an active figure in European political circles, mingling with royalty and nobility. During Hong Jun’s time in Germany, Sai Jinhua gained the favor of the German Empress Friedrich and through her, met the young German officer Alfred von Waldersee, a protégé of Chancellor Bismarck. The young German officer fell for the exotic beauty Sai Jinhua, setting the stage for their reunion during the invasion of Beijing by the Eight-Nation Alliance. Hong Jun’s mission to the four European countries lasted five years. Upon returning to China, he arranged for Sai Jinhua to live in the Humble Administrator’s Garden in Suzhou.

After Hong Jun’s death, the remnants of the scholar-official’s household could not tolerate having a former prostitute as a concubine tarnishing their reputation. Sai Jinhua was driven out, penniless and forced to return to prostitution. Her years as the wife of an envoy had allowed her to befriend various high-ranking officials in Beijing. Now operating as a high-end courtesan, she frequented elite circles under the signboard “Sai Jinhua’s Literary House.” No records of her exist in the Yi County Annals. Likely, the people of Yi County, known for valuing Confucian teachings and regarded as a land of etiquette, were unwilling to acknowledge that such a captivating yet low-status woman had come from their spiritually rich land. Of course, if Sai Jinhua had been someone like Liang Hongyu—who famously drummed up resistance against the Jin invaders—things might have been different, even though both women came from similar backgrounds.

In 1900, when the Eight-Nation Alliance invaded Beijing and Empress Dowager Cixi fled westward with Emperor Guangxu, the German army sought revenge for the killing of their envoy Clemens von Ketteler by slaughtering Beijing civilians, throwing the city into chaos. One day, several German soldiers broke into Sai Jinhua’s residence. Not knowing their nationality, she first spoke in English. When they didn’t understand, she switched to German. Learning that the commander was none other than Waldersee, the young officer she once knew, she immediately went to his residence at the Yiluan Hall in Nanhai to visit him and began close interactions. Sai Jinhua made two requests to Waldersee: one, to protect innocent civilians and prohibit wanton killings; two, to protect cultural relics and prevent a repeat of the burning of the Old Summer Palace. In the months she lived with Waldersee, she obtained yellow protection plaques from him, which were hung in Beijing’s Dashilan commercial district to prevent German troops from harassing the locals. Through her efforts, Waldersee issued orders forbidding soldiers from killing indiscriminately, sparing Beijing from a massacre. Her contributions also helped facilitate the signing of the Boxer Protocol, earning her gratitude from locals who called her “Heroine of Pingkang,” “Protectress of the Nation,” or “Envoy Sai the Second.” The Qing government, eager to end its exile and sign a peace treaty, learned of Sai Jinhua’s connection with Waldersee. Through the intermediary of Sheng Xuanhuai, Minister of War Li Hongzhang tasked his son Li Jingcai to contact Sai Jinhua, who successfully mediated and helped finalize the treaty.

After Empress Dowager Cixi returned to Beijing, public opinion praised the “prostitute who saved the emperor.” Some cynics wrote satirical poems: “Where did the millions of brave soldiers go? A girl child saved the emperor. Don’t laugh at Sai Jinhua’s thick skin—many soldiers outshine her.” Cixi was furious. In 1902, Waldersee was ordered back to Germany. Sensing a worsening situation in Beijing, Sai Jinhua moved to the British Concession in Shanghai. Even so, the Qing government fabricated a charge of “serving as a maid” and arrested her while she was watching a play at the Dan Gui Theatre in Nanshi, exiling her back to her native Yi County.

After leaving Yi County and returning to Shanghai, Sai Jinhua married a merchant surnamed Cao as a concubine and even spent 2,000 taels of silver to secure him the official title of Tongzhi. Soon after, Cao passed away, leaving her alone again. She later became involved with Wei Siling, a veteran of the Kuomintang, and lived with him for several years without incident. Not long after their marriage, Wei Siling died, leading some to call Sai Jinhua a “husband killer.” After his death, her mental state deteriorated drastically. In her later years, she was nearly reduced to begging. In 1936, impoverished and ill, Sai Jinhua died in Beijing’s Jurong Lane at the age of 67.

Protected area: 50 meters to the south and north, extending to the small river to the east and Yubian Highway to the west.

Construction control zone: Outside the protected area, extending to Zhushan Ridge and Shentang Village to the east, Xiazhou Village to the south, Shangzhou Village to the west, and Beizhuang Village to the north.