Osaka’s Unwritten Rules: The Hankyu Department Store Food Basement is a “Tasting” Paradise

▲ Hankyu Department Store. (Photo / fromthe official website ofHankyu Umeda Main Store)

Text by Urban Life Research Project, excerpted from *Don’t Be Silly, This Is the Real Osaka*, published by Far Eastern Publishing
Translator / Hsu Yu-wen

Unwritten Rule 9 【Butif you’re not going to thebasement food street,then head toHankyu Department Store.】

During those awkward in-between hours like late afternoon when you’re starting to get a little hungry, if you happen to be in Umeda,you’ll undoubtedly head straight for the basement food street of Hankyu Department Store. As mentioned in Unwritten Rule #8, Osakans may view Hankyu as “second-rate,” but its one overwhelmingly popular feature is the basement — aka the food street. On regular days, it gets bustling from around midday.

“Got a little hunger pang? Just go for it!” And the reason behind itis simply to sample food.As an Osakan, no one’s too proud to say no to free samples. “One’s not enough, give me another” — accepting the generosity of the vendors wholeheartedly without any hesitation is the right way to do it.

If sampling still doesn’t satisfy your stomach, check out the standing-food court. This is the “Kingdom of Flour-Based Delights” that Osakans absolutely love. The most popular item there is the “grilled squid” — but be warned, Osaka’s version isn’t “grilled squid” as you might expect. It’s a small okonomiyaki-like dish made by mixing flour, seasonings, and squid bits, then pressing and pan-frying them with a hot press. It’s one of Osaka’s famous local foods. Chewy, fluffy, with the aroma of grilled squid — it’s seriously delicious, and each piece only costs ¥126. Some customers even buy several to take home as souvenirs. It’s been a long-time favorite since the Showa 30s (1955–1964).

Other options include takoyaki, revolving grilled snacks (called imagawayaki in Kanto, similar to Taiwan’s common wheel cakes), or udon noodles — all perfect for satisfying sudden hunger pangs. People of all ages can finish their meal in just a few minutes while standing, then just walk away. It’s truly a paradise for impatient (IRACHI) Osakans.

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