12-hour low and slow smoked pork pulled burger – the signature “Jumbo” masterpiece

Text & Photos /From *Late-Night Private Tastings*, written by Yang Zihui, published by Times Publishing

In my culinary map, American food holds a significant place. Perhaps ever since I can remember, burgers, ribs, and steaks have always been directly associated with words like abundance, satisfaction, and celebration. Or maybe it’s my love for meat that serves as a shortcut—allowing my taste buds to guide me back through the fleeting moments I spent living in the U.S. and Australia, those carefree, delightful, and leisurely days.

After returning to Taiwan from Australia in 2011, I often found myself yearning for the 30-centimeter-long grilled pork ribs from Pancakes On The Rocks in Sydney. One day, while wandering around the Dazhi residential area, I happened to spot Ed's Diner’s blue awning and its quintessentially American signboard. Embracing the bold spirit of a “big eater,” I decided to step inside and explore.

The interior, which can accommodate up to 30 people, is neatly arranged with wooden tables and chairs. Red brick walls stand cleanly against the wooden floor, and an open kitchen is located on one side of the entrance, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere reminiscent of an American family diner. This instantly made me think, “This is it!” With pride, the restaurant has written on a large blackboard on the wall: “Our meats are marinated using the same 23-spice blend as the U.S. champions and are smoked and grilled in longan wood, finished with Carolina sauce, and slow-smoked using Taiwan’s very first American-style smoker!”

These straightforward descriptions are as heartfelt and sincere as a touching love letter, leaving me utterly enchanted and salivating. Over the years, having watched countless food shows featuring Anthony Bourdain and Guy Fieri, I’ve longed to experience the diverse BBQ styles of Texas, New Orleans, and other regions across America. Late at night, staring at the TV screen, I yearned to one day taste these flavors in person—little did I know I’d get to try them right here in Taipei.

When seated, I eagerly awaited the arrival of the glossy, caramelized pork ribs. Instead of a thick, sticky sauce, the ribs were coated entirely with a rich layer of spice rub. The spices, infused with fat and meat juice, had thoroughly penetrated the meat. Served at a low temperature of 120°C after slow roasting, the pork ribs retained their natural sweetness. The exterior was slightly crispy and fragrant. Holding the ribs in one hand and a beer in the other—truly one of life’s great pleasures.

Beyond the ribs, I’m even more captivated by the premium thick beef brisket. Large cuts of brisket are coated with spice rub and slow-roasted for a long time. They’re only sliced upon ordering, so when served, you see only long, thick slices of meat on the plate. The dry-looking brisket rests quietly on the porcelain plate, seemingly devoid of juices. But once sliced and tasted, the well-rendered fat and perfectly controlled cooking reveal an unexpectedly juicy and tender texture. The crispy outer crust adds another layer of flavor. When chewing the meat becomes tiring, this crunch refreshes the palate. Ever since watching *Chef*, every time I eat Ed's Diner’s brisket, I’m reminded of the scenes where everyone raves about and fights over Franklin BBQ’s smoked brisket. Sharing brisket with friends in Taiwan is also a joyful and heartwarming experience.

As for the smoked pork pulled burger, it felt like meeting someone I should have known much earlier. I’ve never been particularly fond of pork burgers, and my conservative nature usually reserves my stomach space for ribs and brisket. Once, while watching TV, I saw celebrity host Adam Richman devouring a pulled pork burger on his show. That scene of him sinking his teeth into the burger ignited my craving. The very next day, I headed straight to Ed's Diner to satisfy my hunger.

The pulled pork burger, branded as the “restaurant’s recommendation” under its golden signboard, is a jumbo burger stacked over ten centimeters high. Pork shoulder is coated with spices and slow-smoked for 12 hours, easily shredding into tender strands. The pulled pork is piled onto a round bun buttered and toasted on both sides, then topped with crisp, sweet shredded cabbage for balance and a drizzle of mayonnaise. Even if the burger cools down from chatting, it remains flavorful—the pork is rich and tender, and the toasted bun, far from getting soggy from the juices, retains a hint of buttery aroma. Boldly flattening the burger with both hands and taking a big bite—this is what diner-style dining is all about.

The sides, often overlooked in other restaurants, are given no less attention here. Pumpkin is cooked, mashed, and simmered over low heat with minimal seasoning, offering a clean, sweet vegetable flavor that warms the stomach before the main course. The salad is dressed with a cilantro-based sauce. I usually save my salad to eat with the brisket and ribs—the tangy, refreshing greens perfectly balance the richness of the grilled meats.

For a while, I was hooked on the American TV series *House of Cards*, starring Kevin Spacey. The political drama follows Congressman Frank Underwood as he climbs the power ladder through cunning strategy. Despite the intense plot, the show frequently cuts to scenes of the protagonist indulging in massive meals at the traditional Southern ribs joint “Freddy's BBQ Joint.” I think this not only symbolizes the character’s meat-loving political ambition but also hints at a longing for carefree childhood joy beneath his cold exterior.

In the coldness of urban life, having a place like Ed's Diner where we can relax, indulge without a care, eat meat heartily, and briefly revisit the American dreams we once had is nothing short of a healing remedy.

#DATA
Ed's Diner
HOURS: Lunch 11:00–14:00, Dinner 17:00–21:00 (Closed Mondays)
ADDRESS: No. 216, Lequn 2nd Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei City
TEL 02-8502-6969

Deliciousness all day long
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