Enjoy the quality of Japanese rice – layered donburi with salmon roe and abalone

Text & Photos /KUNI

(Today’s donburi was absolutely delicious!)

Star Hoshi, an exclusive reservation-only Japanese kappo restaurant with a high threshold, has been on my radar for ages but I never managed to visit. Recently, after hearing a friend’s review, curiosity got the better of me. I picked an auspicious day and rounded up a group of like-minded friends. The table had a minimum spend of 40,000 NTD, originally intended to be split among eight people. Unexpectedly, the group filled up and then two more joined, but we stuck to the original budget of 5,000 NTD per person.

After passing Lane 155 on Dunhua North Road, Lane 165 seemed to vanish. Traversing a maze of one-way streets in heavy rain, I almost thought I had the wrong address. Upon arrival, a gentleman stood at the unassuming entrance, kindly holding an umbrella to guide guests inside.

The welcome sake was decent, though slightly warm – a bit of a pity. The first dish featured scallops and moss seaweed, sweet and tender with a hint of sesame aroma. During the meal, I learned that aside from dessert, all the cooking that evening was done single-handedly by Hoshisan. Sommelier Chosan, front-of-house Amy, and the dessert chef each had their roles, but occasionally pitched in to help. Amy joked that she had washed the rice herself today and hoped we’d enjoy it – everyone laughed.

It was then I realized how well the Hoshi team controlled the dining atmosphere – the pacing was just right, and they avoided overly aggressive or formulaic language as much as possible. There were minor hiccups, but such attention to detail is especially rare in today’s restaurant scene, where staffing budgets are often slashed. Just days earlier, I’d been discussing with friends how a certain well-known restaurant had been increasing the ratio of trainees, leading to more inexperienced front-of-house staff at the frontline – saving on labor costs but driving away customers.

(Welcome sake)

● ETtoday News Cloud reminds you: Don’t drink and drive, don’t drive if you’ve been drinking.

(Scallops and moss seaweed)

The sashimi today was white croaker, red sea bream, and yellowtail. Served at a slightly higher temperature, I was initially surprised, but upon chewing carefully, I grew to appreciate this approach. With the fish in excellent condition, it allowed the rich oils and unique textures to shine through.

Hoshisan rarely makes nigiri, so today was likely an exception. He mentioned that the fish was particularly well-suited for hand-pressed sushi. Watching him shape the pieces, I was surprised to see he wore transparent gloves on his right hand. He served two pieces: saury and red throat. They were delicious, though not typical of Edomae-style – the shaping wasn’t flawless, and the rice didn’t fan out neatly. There seemed to be more wasabi than usual at traditional restaurants, but it enhanced the umami of the fish.

(White croaker, red sea bream, and yellowtail)

(Hoshisan begins shaping sushi)

(Saury and red throat nigiri)

Next came the scallop nemuro-ji dish. When the lacquered dish arrived, I paused – its simple black form was mesmerizing. I’ve seen many high-end lacquerware pieces, but rarely one with such a gentle hue, almost radiating warmth – truly indescribable. Only then did Amy tell me it was Meiji-era lacquerware. The creamy broth was sweet and hot, and the texture of the nemuro-ji was unexpectedly light rather than the usual soft mush.

Next were grilled conger eel and sea urchin tempura. The former was fairly common, but the latter was a first for me. Today’s conger eel was clean and tender, like soft snow. The sea urchin tempura offered a novel taste – lightly cooked to bring out a luxurious sweetness, though the finish was slightly bitter. Overall, the batter looked thin but some parts were over-fried.

(Scallop nemuro-ji dish)

(Conger eel and sea urchin tempura)

The snow crab soufflé was spectacular – a generous portion with mashed yam and egg whites covering the crab meat and king oyster mushrooms. When pierced, steam billowed out, releasing a powerful earthy aroma. The bold heat and richness of the crab instantly satisfied the soul.

The wagyu sukiyaki had a strong burdock aroma. The broth differed somewhat from traditional Japanese methods but remained elegant. The Australian wagyu was rich in marbling, though not as tender as ideal.

(Snow crab soufflé)

(The crab meat’s umami steamed out through the cut)

(Australian wagyu sukiyaki)

(Eating together with half a raw egg yolk)

(Pickled daikon from Japan)

Thanks to the open kitchen design, every move in the back was visible. The rice pot on the gas stove had held my attention from the start, and finally, it was served after the sukiyaki. Koshihikari rice from Niigata was steamed to fluffy perfection, full of starchy gelatin-like texture – a true showcase of high-quality Japanese rice. Paired with abalone and salmon roe, it disappeared quickly. We kept asking Chosan for more rice. After four bowls, I was stunned to hear the record here was five – I almost blurted out “please give me another bowl” before catching myself.

(Chosan serves the donburi)

(Topped with salmon roe and abalone)

(Start portioning)

(Abalone and salmon roe donburi)

(Extremely delicious)

(Miso)

(This should be the third bowl)

The dessert was tiramisu—its style was simple, but the deconstruction of flavors was brilliant. Different caramel elements took the lead, making the sudden appearance of slightly bitter dark chocolate incredibly elegant and moving. It was a truly great and fitting ending.

(Preparing the dessert)

(Tiramisu)

(Preparing tea snacks)

(Grapefruit agar)

(Earl Grey pound cake, fruit tart, almond tuile)

A friend once mentioned that this place had the vibe of a simplified version of Ryugin, but I have a completely different take. Compared to the highly calculated modern gastronomic feast, Hoshi might be better described as a high-end private kitchen in the Japanese kappo cuisine scene. Though the team consists of only four members, each is highly experienced, and the occasional minor imperfection in finesse is hardly noticeable. The very refined and natural control throughout the evening showed excellent teamwork, with each member complementing the others—it was genuinely a delightful meal.

(Hoshisan, see you next time ^^)

Hoshi Kappo
Address: No. 20, Lane 165, Dunhua North Road, Songshan District, Taipei City
Phone: (02)2546-2121
Hours: Tue–Sun (fully reservation-based)

Interpreting gourmet food through music
Violinist KUNI
Kuni (Defying the Laws of the World) Facebook page　Kuni (Defying the Laws of the World) blog

Deliciousness non-stop from morning to night
Download the “ETtoday News Cloud APP” for the latest gourmet updates →
iOS:https://goo.gl/rmIDdx
Android:https://goo.gl/XPe8Uj