RAW’s Annual Limited-Edition Set Menu: A Feast of Creative French Cuisine

Text & Photos /KUNI

(A liver pâté made from chicken and duck liver layered on a rye bread bridge)

Lucky me—I returned to RAW on November 4th, the very first day of their annual limited-edition set menu. Under the blazing midday sun, the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Hsin Yung Fuk Building gleamed particularly brightly. Actually, my first visit to RAW hadn’t left a great impression, and coupled with how hard it is to get a reservation, I’d pretty much decided never to come back. But somehow, fate had other plans, and here I was for a second visit.

(Back at the entrance of the Hsin Yung Fuk Building)

(The highly recognizable large wooden artistic decor)

(The set menu’s debut day was, of course, fully booked)

Today’s service from the front-of-house team was still hit-or-miss—some forgot things, others had sour expressions. Thankfully, the male server who explained each dish was poised and steady. Whenever he served a course, it felt reassuring—such good luck.

The price for the annual set menu is NT$2,680, and the contents are as follows:
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Marsala & Liver Pâté & Ramune
Sea Bream & Orange & Daikon
Sea Urchin & Bean & Peanut Butter
Pasta & Sakura Shrimp & Herbs
Mushrooms & Mushrooms & Mushrooms
Chinese Yam & Cod & Onion
Beef
Grain & Potato
Sesame | ? | Caramelized Cream & Cocoa Beans
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(Chinese menu)

(English menu)

The first appetizer came as a shock—two huge grapes lay beneath vibrant mint leaves. Not having done my homework, I had no idea this was André Chiang’s famous Ramune. The moment I bit into it, my expression twisted: “Uh… why is there bubbles inside?” As I chewed, an indescribable tang emerged, prompting an amused smile.

The second course featured a rye bread bridge topped with a chicken and duck liver pâté. The combination was playful but nowhere near as captivating as the cauliflower mousse beside it, which was elevated by crispy dried chicken skin chips and Indian marsala, creating a complex yet highly refined dish.

Next came thinly sliced red grouper sashimi, adorned with tapioca pearls and daikon strips—unfortunately, it was rather flat and unremarkable. But the asparagus was a different story: a thick, single stalk was deliberately seared on one side to tease the appetite. The sea urchin burst with an unexpected aroma upon first bite, then harmonized with peanut butter before transitioning into a refreshing, cool sweetness of green peas—absolutely brilliant.　

(Ramune: Sparkling soda)

(Left: Marsala cauliflower mousse, Right: Rye bridge with liver pâté)

(Liver pâté made from duck and chicken liver, elegantly stacked on a rye bread bridge—so beautiful)

(Rather uninteresting sashimi)

(Lightly seared asparagus, sea urchin, green peas)

(A truly stunning dish)

The sakura shrimp angel hair pasta was overly salty, which instantly reminded me of a scene from the recent food movie Burnt—could there be a Michel in RAW’s kitchen too? Just kidding.

The mushroom dish had a familiar name and taste, but the flavors were more refined and delicate compared to my first visit. It’s quite interesting—friends who’ve dined here three times said it’s much better than when it first opened. It seems they’ve made adjustments, or maybe the kitchen team has simply grown stronger through a year of fine-tuning.

The cod, quietly nestled beneath the cabbage, was pure and tender without standing out, but the pan-fried cabbage emitted an intoxicating aroma—turns out it was brushed with homemade bamboo charcoal oil. The side onion sauce remained subtle, not bold in flavor, yet it still shone beside the cod.

(Sakura shrimp angel hair pasta)

(Unfortunately, a bit too salty)

(The "mushroom dish" from the first visit)

(Today’s Earl Grey soup seemed even more vibrant)

(Cod with lightly pan-fried cabbage and homemade bamboo charcoal oil)

(A truly thoughtful dish)

Since the steak had an off-putting sourness during my first visit, seeing Short Ribs on the menu still made me a bit wary.

Today’s beef short ribs were fine—mild in flavor—but they lost their presence amidst the standout sides. The oat brittle and oat grains nearby created a breakfast-like illusion with their aroma. WOW—that vibe was reminiscent of the Muesli I often ate during my student days in Europe. The potato sauce underneath and the hidden salted egg yolk within the steak played supporting roles in this oddly harmonious dish, making it yet another delightful composition.

I suddenly realized that Chef André Chiang possesses an exceptional talent for sauces in Western cuisine—a key skill that sets him apart from other local French and Italian chefs. He refuses to settle for the ordinary or blindly follow classic recipes. It’s like listening to Volodos play the Turkish March—starts off normal, then the tone gets increasingly offbeat, more and more unconventional, making you wonder if the piece can even make it to the end.

Of course, André’s creativity and imagination stay within safe bounds—no worries about going overboard, nor has it reached avant-garde territory yet. That’s what makes him so captivating.

(Beef short ribs)

(Topped with potato sauce)

(Cooked just right and in good condition)

The served pineapple cake was a familiar face from the first visit, its icy tartness cleansing the palate. Then came the dessert that closed the meal—a warm chocolate bath housing an oval piece of caramelized butter ice cream. The white floating object nearby, upon explanation, turned out to be... marshmallow? Wait, how could something so light as "marshmallow" survive for so long in that thick hot chocolate?

(A reimagined pineapple cake)

(Caramelized butter ice cream soaking in warm chocolate)

After finishing the entire meal and stepping out of the Horizon Building, one thought lingered: “Truly deserving of being an annual selection.”

RAW Restaurant
Address: 1F, No. 301, Lequn 3rd Rd, Taipei City
Phone: (02)8501-5800
Hours: 11:30–14:30, 18:00–22:00

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