The city without cows has a signature dish: grilled beef tongue—Sendai’s unique way of eating it is incredibly delicious!

Written by Nagahama Keiko, comics by Inoue T. Seiryu from the book “The Delicious Map of Japan’s 47 Prefectures,” published by Farland Culture Publishing.
Translator: Huang Weiping

Beef tongue can now be considered Sendai’s signature dish and is a well-known local delicacy across Japan. There’s even a “Beef Tongue Street” near Sendai Station, lined with specialty shops one after another. But why is beef tongue the signature dish of Sendai, a city where you don’t see any cows around?

The story dates back to 1948 (Showa 23). The first-generation owner of the yakitori restaurant “Ajisai Shiro,” Sano Keishirō, was inspired by the umami of Western-style stewed beef tongue. Curious about how beef tongue would taste when grilled, he pioneered the path of Sendai-style grilled beef tongue.

As its popularity gradually grew, many other shops began imitating the style. Now, there are over 200 specialty beef tongue shops within Sendai City alone. The menu at a typical Sendai beef tongue shop is refreshingly simple: beef tongue, oxtail soup, and wheat rice—that’s it. Recently, garlic or curry-flavored variations have emerged, but the classic set still consists of salt-grilled beef tongue, oxtail soup, and wheat rice. Leave out any one of these three, and it’s no longer “Sendai beef tongue.” Just like the rock band THE ALFEE—the three members may have different personalities, but none have been replaced since the band’s formation.

You’ll know once you try it. The rich juices of the beef tongue burst in your mouth, perfectly complementing the naturally flavorful wheat rice. And the slow-simmered salt-grilled beef tongue soup, loaded with plenty of chopped scallions, is absolutely divine. The trio of beef tongue, oxtail, and wheat rice enhances each other’s flavors, essentially giving each other a flavor boost.

That said, Sendai beef tongue is a bit different from the usual salt-grilled beef tongue you find at casual barbecue restaurants. First, Sendai beef tongue is thicker. Also, unlike regular salt-grilled beef tongue which is grilled right after slicing, Sendai beef tongue goes through a “resting” aging process before cooking. This aging step helps concentrate the umami, making the meat more tender and juicier. Then it must be grilled over charcoal. The smoky aroma makes the beef tongue even more delicious. Sendai may not have cows, but it does have a method that makes beef taste even better—this is what you call “food culture”!

The soul food of Miyagi Prefecture residents:
Sea pineapple ● Also known as the “pineapple of the sea,” it has a unique flavor, so people tend to either love it or hate it.
Nennenmen ● A type of noodle stretched without oil, slightly thicker than somen noodles.

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