King Enma’s “Face-Changing” Stare – Visiting Noboribetsu Onsen Feels Like a Trip Through Hell

▲ Enma Daiou, who is already 166 million years old. (Photo / Reporter Chen Rui-zhong, the same below)

Reporter Chen Rui-zhong / Report from Noboribetsu

When people think of soaking in hot springs in Japan, they often imagine a tranquil and comfortable romantic setting. But Noboribetsu Onsen in Hokkaido is nothing like that at all. The hot springs here are described as being “in hell,” and the hot spring town is crawling with terrifying “demons,” adding a unique dose of storytelling to Noboribetsu compared to other onsen towns.

▲ Noboribetsu Hell Valley, always shrouded in smoke and the smell of sulfur.

It turns out that due to the influence of Mount Usu, Noboribetsu preserves a vast volcanic crater area. Among this, Hell Valley, which spans about 11 hectares, earned its name because hot springs continuously spew from the surface vents, mixed with abundant steam and mist. The Noboribetsu Onsen, based around Hell Valley, has also given rise to various ghost and demon cultures.

▲ King Enma’s face-changing show.

▲ The Yuki Daimyojin, who prays for exam success.

According to legend, the demons residing in Hell Valley are called “Yuki Daimyojin.” Though their appearances are frightening, they are actually kind spirits that bring blessings and ward off misfortune for the locals. As a result, there are large “welcoming demons” both at the entrance of the hot spring town and in front of JR Noboribetsu Station, ready to greet guests coming to soak in the baths. Some welcoming demons even consist of dads holding hands with their children to welcome visitors, giving off a heartwarming vibe.

▲ A blue demon and red demon welcoming guests.

Keen-eyed travelers might also spot various Yuki Daimyojin throughout the hot spring town, including those that pray for business prosperity, exam success, or love fulfillment—these round-shaped stone demon statues are quite adorable, adding a fun touch to the hot spring area.

▲ The hot spring town shops sell a variety of demon-themed merchandise.

As for the giant club held by the Yuki Daimyojin—the “Oni Kenebou”—it is also an indispensable element of Noboribetsu Onsen. In addition to a prayer plaza featuring nine different types of Oni Kenebou, the shops also sell many Oni Kenebou and Yuki Daimyojin-related goods. Even the tourist information center’s signboard features a giant Oni Kenebou taller than a person, showing just how important the demon culture is in Noboribetsu Onsen.

▲ The love-themed Yuki Daimyojin, a must-pray-to for couples.

Among the many Yuki Daimyojin, the one enshrined in Enma Hall—King Enma—is arguably the most popular demon statue. With an age of 1 trillion 660 billion years since the creation of Earth, King Enma rules over 80,000 hellish underlings. At specific times each day, what seems like a kindly King Enma transforms into a fierce expression and presides over a judgment ceremony.

▲ The business prosperity Yuki Daimyojin, whose round shape is super cute.

The roughly two-story-tall King Enma doesn’t just “change faces” during the judgment ceremony—he also waves his hands continuously, and his piercing eyes keep a close, intense gaze on every audience member, exuding strong presence. That’s why crowds always gather in front of Enma Hall during the ceremony.

▲ The tourist information center that assists travelers features a giant Oni Kenebou as its signboard.

Although King Enma returns to a gentle expression after the judgment ceremony, the pungent sulfur smell lingering in the air and the omnipresent “demons and ghosts” really make you feel like you’ve taken a trip through hell.

▲ The usually kind-looking King Enma of Noboribetsu.

Noboribetsu Enma Hall
Address: Noboribetsu Onsencho, Noboribetsu City, Hokkaido
Judgment times: Summer: 10:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00. Winter: 10:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 20:00

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