Go! Follow backpackers to northern Thailand and experience the unique charm of Pai

 

Text & Photography / Liu Jiawen

 

Pai, a mountain town in northern Thailand, is about a three-hour drive from Chiang Mai, requiring you to navigate 762 turns to get there. Its vibrancy and diversity may surprise you, yet it retains a simple, laid-back atmosphere, along with low prices, making it a favorite among foreign backpackers. It has even been described by Lonely Planet as a mecca for travelers. So what makes Pai so uniquely charming? Come explore it with us.

Pai isn’t very large, and most places can be reached on foot, as shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are concentrated along the walking street — a square area extending about 1 to 2 kilometers from around the bus station. The main attractions are located around Pai and can be reached along Highway 1095, taking about 10–30 minutes by car. There are many motorcycle rental shops locally, with rates around 150 Thai baht (approximately 150 TWD) per day, making them the go-to transport for backpackers heading to various sights.

Taste Local Delicacies – Sample Authentic Northern Thai Snacks

 

The residents of Pai are mostly Thai, with a small number of Muslim Yunnanese Chinese immigrants, plus many foreign backpackers, resulting in a diverse food scene. In addition to Thai cuisine, you can also find a variety of Chinese and Western dishes. For authentic northern Thai traditional food, head to the Sukhothai noodle soup shop next to the big temple. Their noodle soup is hearty and rich in flavor, and it’s a local favorite. Another must-try is northern Thai curry noodles — the noodles are made from rice and eggs, with boiled yellow noodles underneath and crispy fried yellow noodles on top, mixed with pickled vegetables, onions, and lemon juice, offering a unique texture from two types of noodles in one bite.

The walking street transforms into a morning market and then a night market around 4 or 5 PM. Arrive as early as 6 or 7 AM, and you’ll see numerous breakfast vendors. This is a great time to try congee cooked by Yunnanese vendors — hot white porridge served with chicken, shredded ginger, and century egg, refreshing and not greasy. There are also freshly fried youtiao (Chinese crullers) and soy milk. The youtiao here are chewy and bouncy, differing from the crispy versions found in Taiwan.