Northern Thailand’s Rose – A 3-Day Ancient Sites Tour of Chiang Mai

By Liu Jiawen | Compiled & Reported | Source: Monocle Editorial Team

 

In Thai, Chiang Mai originally meant “new city” and was historically known as the Northern Rose. It is arguably the most important city in northern Thailand and was also one of the four great dynasties of Thai history. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, the city in its early days became a major producer of Thai wood carvings and bamboo crafts due to the abundant supply of timber from its forests. Even today, Chiang Mai’s handicrafts are still widely praised for both their styles and affordability. In addition, there are numerous historical sites and temples where visitors can take their time exploring and deeply experience Thai culture.

Recommended Must-Visit Attraction: Wat Phra Singh (Phra Singh Temple)

Wat Phra Singh (Phra Singh Temple) houses many of the most important masterpieces of Lanna art. In 1345, King Pha Yu first built a chedi here to enshrine his father’s ashes. The temple was originally named Li Chiang Phra Temple but was renamed Wat Phra Singh in 1367 when a revered lion Buddha statue was installed. In Thai, its name literally means “Lion Temple.” Regarding the lion Buddha, it is considered a noble and rare representation of the Buddha, originating from Bodhgaya, India. The lion-shaped body is somewhat plump, with a Buddha halo resembling a lotus bud atop its head, and its saffron robe naturally drapes over the left shoulder, with the end draping down over the chest. There are two accounts regarding the origin of the lion Buddha at Wat Phra Singh. One says that in 1455, along with the construction of Wat Chet Yot, an Indian Pala-style Buddha statue was brought here. Later, Lanna sculptors from the Sukhothai school created many bronze replicas, and the lion Buddha is said to combine features from both regions. Another account states that the lion Buddha came from Sri Lanka and was gifted to the King of Chiang Mai before being enshrined in Wat Phra Singh. In 1661, King Narai of Ayutthaya had the statue moved to Ayutthaya, but in 1767, during a battle between Lanna soldiers and Burmese forces, it was rediscovered in a sack. The true origins of the lion Buddha remain unclear. Although the Viharn Lai Kham (Golden Hall) inside the temple was built specifically to house this lion Buddha, the statue currently enshrined there is a replica—the original is rumored to be kept at the Chiang Mai National Museum. Another important treasure within the viharn is the mural paintings on the walls. These artworks are renowned for depicting scenes of daily life in ancient northern Thailand and the royal court of Burma, rendered in fine detail. The murals mainly illustrate two fables about the triumph of good over evil. Additionally, just to the right inside the temple entrance stands the most typical example of a northern scripture depository (ho trai). It sits atop an elevated platform, with stucco reliefs of deities and Buddha figures on the outer walls, and the wooden scripture hall above boasts intricate wood carvings—arguably the finest examples of traditional art in the temple.

Recommended Must-Visit Attraction: Ancient City Walls and Gates of Chiang Mai

Originally, Chiang Mai had two sets of walls: an outer earthen wall and an inner brick wall. Today, most have collapsed, leaving behind the four corners of the inner wall and five city gates, with the moat still clearly marking the rectangular boundary of the old town. The north side was once regarded as the head of Chiang Mai, so Chang Puak Gate was reserved for royal use only. Thaphae Gate to the east means “bamboo raft pier,” symbolizing the foundation of urban governance and also serving as Chiang Mai’s main ceremonial gate. As such, the annual Loy Krathong (Floating Lantern) Festival parade begins at Thaphae Gate. On the southern side of the wall are two gates: Chiang Mai Gate, which was historically the main passageway for merchants and traders, and Suan Prung Gate, which was built in the 15th century. Suan Dok Gate to the west leads to Wat Suan Dok, which was once the garden of the royal palace, and served a defensive role for the city’s residents. The four corners of the wall each carry symbolic meaning: the northeast corner, Sri Phum, means “light of the earth” and is believed to influence the city’s glory—it is the most significant corner; the southeast corner, Katam, means “fishing trap” and is thought to influence the city’s fortifications; the southwest corner, Ku Ruangr, symbolizes warding off bad luck; and the northwest corner, Hua Rin, represents a water source and is believed to affect the city’s longevity. The current city walls were rebuilt by Chao Kawila, the last ruler of Chiang Mai, in the late 18th century after he reclaimed the city from the Burmese. Though the walls are now weathered, walking along the moat and gazing at the bricks offers a glimpse into the former glory of the ancient royal capital.

Recommended Must-Visit Attraction: Maesa Elephant Camp

In the past, elephants were not only sacred symbols in Thai religious and cultural life but also working partners. Especially in Chiang Mai, logging relied heavily on elephants for transporting heavy timber, making elephant keeping economically viable. However, as times changed and related industries declined, mahouts (elephant caretakers) lost their livelihoods. The Thai government organized these people and their elephants, and they are now privately managed with some government support. Maesa Elephant Camp is one such example. Before meeting the elephants, visitors will see a sign near the entrance listing each elephant’s basic information and the mahout responsible for its care—reminding guests that this is not just about watching performances, but also about ecological responsibility. Nowadays, mahouts and elephants remain partners, albeit in a different form. The camp holds scheduled elephant shows daily, starting with a bath in the stream, followed by marching drills and tail-wagging dances, and ending with an elephant painting as the grand finale. These elephant artists begin training at age 10 and, besides performing live, their paintings are sold as souvenirs to generate additional income. After the show, visitors can ride elephants through the mountains and, at the end, buy a bunch of bananas as a token of gratitude. Although the camp does train elephants for performances, it provides them with shelter and income for the mahouts. There is even an on-site elephant hospital, and visitors can now also try their hand at being a mahout. It’s a balanced approach combining conservation and tourism.

Recommended Must-Visit Attraction: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (Doi Suthep Temple)

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is associated with a legendary white elephant. It is said that in the 14th century, the relics of the Buddha were discovered in northern Thailand, but there was debate over where to enshrine them. A white elephant, symbolizing auspiciousness and sacredness, was chosen to carry the relics. Wherever the elephant stopped would be the final resting place. Though the duration of the journey and stops varies by account, ultimately the elephant stopped at the current site of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, thus determining the location for the relics. To this day, a white elephant statue still stands beside the temple, preserving this story. The temple’s most iconic feature is its long staircase ascending the mountainside, consisting of approximately 306 steps. It is believed that around the mid-16th century, the initial model of the stone staircase—flanked by naga (serpent) guardians and stretching over 200 steps—was created. After several renovations, it took its present form, earning the temple the nickname “Temple of the Two Dragons.” The naga-guarded staircase symbolizes a rainbow bridge, representing a path from earth to heaven, and is guarded at the top by two yaksha (celestial beings). Inside the temple’s main gate, the complex is divided into two sections: the main chapel and chedi are located in a courtyard surrounded by a cloister. Before entering the courtyard, visitors must remove their shoes. Most worshippers first enter the main chapel to pray, receive blessings from the abbot, and then walk clockwise around the chedi with flowers and incense. The cloister is adorned with rows of wish bells, each inscribed with the name and prayer of the wisher. As the bells tinkle in the wind along with Buddhist chants, visitors often find their minds calming. The courtyard was reconstructed in its current form in 1805 by Chao Kawila. The eastern and western sides of the cloister each contain a chapel, with most worshippers visiting the western one to pray and receive holy water blessings from monks. The chapels are decorated with murals: the eastern one depicts the legend of Sumana Thera and the Buddha’s relics, while the western one illustrates the story of the Buddha’s 10th reincarnation. The cloister is lined with 46 Buddha statues, and the walls depict scenes from the Buddha’s life. In 1525, King Muang Kaew renovated the chedi, which is now almost entirely covered in gold leaf and stands over 20 meters tall. The chedi’s spire is made of 36 kilograms of gold and adorned with 999 diamonds and one gemstone of each of the nine colors. Like other temples, the main hall is accompanied by seven Buddha statues in various poses, allowing devotees to pray to their birth-day Buddha and apply gold leaf as a blessing. Descending from the main hall, a row of bronze bells lines the corridor, which worshippers can ring to offer prayers and spread the Dharma’s teachings further through sound. The largest bell in the corner courtyard was donated by Taiwanese devotees—feel free to ring it in response to their devotion. At 1,059 meters above sea level, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is also the closest elevated viewpoint in Chiang Mai. From the southern bell tower, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the city, and on clear days, even the old town’s walls are visible. Note: All visitors must wear knee-length pants or skirts to enter the inner temple area. If your attire doesn’t comply, sarongs or wrap skirts are available for rent at the entrance for 10 baht. Shoes must be removed before entering.