Kamakura, the Ancient Capital – Milly’s Leisurely Exploration of Tokyo’s Suburbs

By Milly

 

Kamakura is a place perfect for strolling, a destination where you can slow down and embrace the rhythm of everyday life during your travels. That’s why I chose to stay there for three nights over two days, immersing myself in a more leisurely pace. But I was hesitant at first—after all, I’ve always insisted that Kamakura isn’t ideal for nighttime, and that since it’s so close to Tokyo, a day trip would suffice.

 

This time, I wanted to “go against” my own beliefs. Staying in Kamakura and exploring it properly might just reveal a different side of the city. Traveling with too many assumptions can get dull, even if those assumptions are your own. Sometimes, we fall into the trap of being “self-righteous.”

Unless a hotel offers a particularly special breakfast, I usually don’t opt for one when making reservations, especially since I prefer starting my day with a breakfast that feels everyday and local.

 

At 6 a.m., I looked out the window of my room on the 11th floor of the 8 hotel and judged from the sky over Shonan Beach that it would be a fine day. Cheerfully, I walked to the Enoden Fujisawa Station just two minutes away and hopped on the 6:24 a.m. streetcar bound for Kamakura, joining a group of students.

 

I’ve always loved this slow-moving, coastal tram that weaves through residential neighborhoods.

 

I had originally planned to arrive at the café where I intended to have breakfast before it opened at 7 a.m. But as the tram approached my favorite stop along the Enoden line—Kamakura Daigaku-mae—I was captivated by the gentle morning light over the pristine sea. I decided to get off. With the next tram arriving in 12 minutes, I took a moment to enjoy the quiet morning scenery. After all, I wasn’t in a hurry. No, I truly wasn’t.

 

Soft light spilled onto the narrow platform facing the sea, where a few other people waiting for the tram seemed to be savoring this leisurely time as well.

 

Then, a few minutes before the tram’s arrival, hurried footsteps echoed as men in suits entered the otherwise empty platform. In an instant, I was pulled back to reality. Right, it’s a weekday, and most people have work to go to. It’s the kind of familiar platform, yet it was filled with an oddly discordant atmosphere.

That’s when I suddenly realized—it was a weekday, early in the morning, before the tourists arrived. I was immersed in the daily life of a place. In such a moment, you’re reminded again of what truly defines a luxurious travel experience.

 

A luxurious trip is never just about staying in top-tier hotels or indulging in gourmet meals. While staying in uniquely appealing accommodations remains a driving force behind Milly’s travels—and sometimes I do splurge to treat myself—true luxury in travel isn’t always measured in money. More than extravagance, what might be truly luxurious is “time”—time untethered by schedules, time that flows freely, even wastefully. Doing nothing is perfectly fine. There doesn’t always have to be something you absolutely must do. Being able to live like that even while traveling? That’s the best.

 

Speaking of luxurious travel, one must also mention the idea of “revisiting.”

 

Counting the years I lived in Tokyo, I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve been to Kamakura—different seasons, moods, paces, and times of year. In the rain, amidst blooming hydrangeas, during the bustling New Year’s holiday crowds… I’ve visited Kamakura over ten times. To return to the same place again and again in a foreign land—a city that blends slow living with tradition—isn’t that simply happiness? What else could it be?

After a delightful breakfast, my next mission to bring myself some happiness was naturally to visit the café “Café Sakashita.” Featured in the Japanese drama *Last Cinderella*, which is set in Kamakura, this café serves as both the home and café of the male lead, played by Nakai Kiichi.

 

After the drama aired, this café became a pilgrimage site for fans, much like the historic “Riki Seika” bakery and the Enoden “Gokurakuji Station.” Even on a non-holiday, before the café opened at 10 a.m., there was already a line—including Milly, a duo of middle-aged women, a solo female traveler, and five overly cheerful high school girls waiting to get in.

 

Thanks to the drama’s popularity, the café has turned into a tourist hotspot, with groups of excited girls pouring in daily. The moment they walk in, they squeal with delight and start taking photos everywhere. That was the scene that day as well. The high school girls excitedly exclaimed how everything was adorable, and subsequent customers snapped photos like they were at a sightseeing spot. Frankly, Milly was one of them.

 

This is completely unlike the café’s original atmosphere—something you wouldn’t see in other cafés. You can understand the staff’s irritation, but perhaps they should have anticipated this when they lent the space for the drama’s filming. Of course, guests should also exercise some self-restraint.

 

Aside from the slightly jarring atmosphere, the café itself is still quite nice. The exterior is a white-walled Western-style house, but the interior has a very traditional Japanese feel, with elements like *nuki* (transom windows) and *ranma* (transom carvings). Yet the sofas, furniture, and decor also carry a “free-spirited hippie vibe,” “Nordic minimalist style,” and “nostalgic Showa-era charm.” Oddly enough, these mismatched elements blend together to create a surprisingly comfortable space. The owner initially just wanted a renovated traditional Japanese home to live in but ended up opening this café. Perhaps visiting after the hype dies down might allow you to better appreciate the café’s original charm.

I only ordered a ginger ale. Having just eaten breakfast, I didn’t have much of an appetite for the popular pancakes. As I sipped the ginger ale, my gaze wandered around the space, trying to match the scenes from the drama. But later, I learned that the drama wasn’t actually filmed here. Instead, the production team referenced the café’s atmosphere and décor to build an almost identical replica of the in-show “Café Saint something-or-other.”