By TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Reported by Liao Hongxin
Renowned as a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its moss, Kyoto’s Saihō-ji Temple stands alone in this distinction, attracting visitors year-round. Although it still lacks an official website today, applying for entry relies on a round-trip postcard system. Even so, during visits, you’ll still see many foreigners who, after enduring a session of seated sutra chanting in the main hall, are finally granted the privilege to experience the charm of Moss Temple.
Green lake with light boats, ancient trees and serene woods—Saihō-ji Temple’s cool serenity blows with hues of moss. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)
The O? Fat? Lan/span> of Moss
Saihō-ji Temple, affectionately called Moss Temple by Kyoto locals, was established 1,300 years ago by the renowned priest Gyōki during the Nara period. It was revived 650 years ago by the famous monk Musō Soseki during the Kamakura period, who established its current scale. Musō was also a celebrated garden designer, and Saihō-ji became his expression of a Zen-infused utopia. The overall garden is divided into upper and lower sections: the upper part is a karesansui (dry landscape) garden, while the lower part features a pond and stroll-style garden. Though it later suffered from wars and was once abandoned, the lack of human activity led to a lush explosion of moss that unexpectedly created a profound and otherworldly estate. The beauty of the moss is most striking on rainy, overcast days. In the damp and stifling corners, life bursts forth vigorously. Occasionally, rays of sunlight filter through, and the dark green moss glows with a soft halo. Surrounded by the cool serenity, gazing quietly at the velvety expanse of green, one might almost feel as if a tidal wave of green is surging in—it’s astonishing how such a narrow and gloomy space can feel so deep and ethereal. The romanticism of Tang Dynasty poets truly comes alive here.
Saihō-ji Temple is most beautiful during the rainy season. In the misty rains of June and July, the moss grows wildly. With over 120 varieties of moss, each delicate and uniquely peculiar, together they form a lush, soft carpet. From the microscopic to the macroscopic, you can take in the richness and splendor of the season. Photographers also love this time of year—the scene is both hazy and delicate, and the green takes on layers and rich saturation. That’s why we chose to visit in late July to capture the most vibrant greens of summer.
Picking up signs of autumn atop a moss carpet that resembles a velvet blanket. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)
True to its mission of enlightening people, visitors wishing to tour Saihō-ji Temple’s garden must still follow the rules: first, they are led to the main hall to sit in the seiza position and chant the “Heart Sutra” and the “Zazen Wasan” hymns with others for 20 minutes. Then, they write their wishes on a “goma wood” tablet with calligraphy. Only then is the “merit” complete, granting them permission to enter the garden for one hour.
The Light and Shadow Play of Moss
First to greet us is the Kondō Pond. The Kondō Pond is a miniature version of the lower section’s pond and stroll-style garden, vividly reflecting the unstable beauty of Saihō-ji Temple, caught between the natural and the man-made. Contrary to our initial hope for the rainy season, the clear and bright weather allowed us to see a different side of Saihō-ji.
First, there’s the scent. One might expect the mossy ground to be stuffy and unpleasant, but instead, there’s not a hint of marsh gas—rather, there’s a fresh, crisp aroma of new buds sprouting in the forest, invigorating and refreshing. Then there are the towering ancient trees, scattered sparsely or densely around the pond, filtering sunlight into thin beams and turning the green velvet carpet below into a scattering of stars. The soft pine breeze brushes against the graceful trees, while moss creeps upward. Despite the mottled and weathered trunks, they remain upright and majestic. Strolling through the forest feels surprisingly open.
Towering ancient trees filter sunlight into thin beams, and the green velvet carpet below becomes a scattering of stars. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)
Just five minutes’ walk from the Kondō Pond feels like entering a whole new world. Walking further to the Shōnan-tei tea house and the Tannō-bō tea house, you can better appreciate the meandering and ethereal charm within the landscape. The lower garden circles around the Kogane Pond, with the pond shore and the Asahi and Yūhi islands creating layered scenery, resembling the foundational three shores and two bays of ink-wash painting—only here, the soft moss adds a deep indigo hue. The green woods on both banks stretch across to form a canopy overhead, while the pond reflects the vast dark green, and a vibrant koi fish makes a playful mark in the water, sending ripples of shimmering green light across the surface.
We specifically sought out the best photo spot for the pond and stroll-style garden, as mentioned by photographer Kenzō Yokoyama—viewed from between Shōnan-tei and the main gate, overlooking Kogane Pond. The layered, profound, and lofty view is breathtaking. But I personally prefer looking back from the footbridge near Tannō-bō tea house. Amidst the wildly growing woods, the aged trunks and the serene pond cast a hazy glow even on the sunlight, making the mossy green seem to dance. Don’t forget to step into Tannō-bō tea house and peer out through its round window—the landscape garden transforms into a framed piece of art.
Beyond the rainy season, another great time to visit is in late November during the maple leaf season. When falling red leaves contrast with the soft green carpet, and the pond shimmers in colorful patterns, every view—whether from afar or up close—is picturesque.
A morning’s worth of sunlight feels like a journey through a thousand years, connecting with the poetic sentiments of the Tang people and sharing in a mysterious, profound illusion. A thousand years ago, envoys were sent to Tang China, and a thousand years later, the people of Kyoto still live in the old dreams of the Tang era.
【Info】
Saihō-ji Temple
Address: 56 Matsugatani-cho, Nishikyo Ward, Kyoto, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)75-391-3631
Hours: By full reservation only, with two time slots per day (morning and afternoon). You must attend the sutra chanting at the designated time indicated on your return pilgrimage slip to gain entry to the garden.
Fee: Admission requires a donation (kyōkin) of ¥3,000
Website: Kyoto Prefecture Official Website www.pref.kyoto.jp/isan/saihouji.html
Notes: Please include your desired visit date, number of people, representative’s name and address in your reservation letter, along with a return postcard. Send it no later than one week before your planned visit. On the day of your visit, bring the return pilgrimage slip and the donation. Note that stamps issued in Taiwan cannot be used to mail directly back to Taiwan from Japan. The return postcard must have a ¥70 Japanese postage stamp affixed.
● Extended Reading:
Japan’s Autumn Leaves Hunt: 15 Best Spots for Maple Viewing in Kyoto
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Saihō-ji Temple’s green, exclusively for travelers. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine)