By TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi
In the Sea of Japan, a treasure trove of ingredients, an ancient and refined Japanese culture has flourished. Coastal fishing villages still exude a gentle and understated cultural charm. We traveled to Kyoto and Fukui along the Sea of Japan, tracing the past and present of the Kansai region.
To get a view of Amanohashidate, you have to bend over and look between your legs. What you see in this position is exactly what the image shows when flipped upside down. Doesn’t it resemble a bridge hanging in mid-air? (Photo / TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi)
The Japanese are a people who love fish. To make eating fish easier, Japanese chopsticks usually have pointed tips to help remove bones. A typical meal often consists of just a bowl of rice, a piece of fish, and a bowl of miso soup. On this trip, we visited Kyoto and Fukui around Wakasa Bay. Every port offers the freshest seafood from the Sea of Japan. The tranquil bayscapes frame the gentlest views of coastal villages. Being here, you truly understand how inseparable the relationship between the ocean and Japan really is.
The Exceptional Beauty of the Natural Bay
Along the coast of Ine Bay in northern Kyoto’s Tango region lies an ancient fishing village — the perfect example of coexistence with the sea. Nestled between mountains and sea with limited flat land, the village developed unique “boat houses” built right on the water. The first floor of these boat houses is connected to the sea, serving as a small dock where fishing boats come and go and gear is stored. The second floor is where fishermen live their daily lives. The village gradually formed during the Edo period (1600s), and to this day, over 230 boat houses remain within the 5-kilometer stretch of Ine Bay. These homes have retained their appearance from over 300 years ago, standing quietly and peacefully amidst the green mountains and blue waters.
We boarded a sightseeing boat to circle Ine Bay. The seawater was as clear and azure as that of island resorts — so clear you could almost jump in for a swim. Unlike the usual cluttered image of fishing villages, there were no piles of debris or stubborn oil stains and dead branches floating on the surface. The black-tiled houses, scattered at varying heights, looked simple and charming against the backdrop of mountains and water. Fishing boats were moored outside, while clothes and bedding dried on balconies. This wasn’t just another tourist spot for visitors to rush through — it was a place where villagers had lived for two or three hundred years. I couldn’t help but wonder: with the boat houses so close to the sea, wouldn’t they flood during high tide? And in rough weather, wouldn’t the waves sweep the houses away? The boat captain pointed to a small island in the middle of the bay not far away and told us it was called Aoshima. This island blocks the powerful waves coming from the open sea, resulting in calm waters with no significant tides or towering waves. Gazing at the serene sea, life in the fishing village seemed carefree, making one envious of Ine Bay’s exceptional natural blessing.
The boat houses by Ine Bay look simple and lovely nestled between the green mountains and blue waters. (Photo / TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi)
When it comes to northern Kyoto’s Tango region, aside from the boat houses of Ine Bay, one cannot miss Amanohashidate. Alongside Matsushima and Miyajima, Amanohashidate is counted as one of Japan’s Three Scenic Views. This 3.6-kilometer-long white sandy spit stretches across Miyazu Bay, dotted with over 8,000 pine trees. A beautiful legend surrounds Amanohashidate: it is said to be a bridge that the gods built to freely travel between heaven and the goddess’s dwelling. One day, the god accidentally dropped the ladder, which then became Amanohashidate, thus disconnecting the path between heaven and earth. Listening to this romantic tale, walking on the white sand, and strolling slowly along the lush green pines, with the blue sea just steps away, it’s no wonder Amanohashidate lives up to its reputation as one of Japan’s top scenic wonders. However, a walk in Amanohashidate Park only offers glimpses of its beauty. To see the full view, you must take the ropeway at Kasamatsu Park to look down from above. Most visitors simply stroll along the beach at Amanohashidate, but that only reveals a fraction of its splendor. You absolutely must ride the Kasamatsu Park cable car to gain a higher vantage point. Normally, tourists just walk along the shoreline, but from above, you can appreciate the landscape from a completely different perspective. From this elevated view, you can see the dramatic contrast of the bay and the sea. I wanted to stay longer, but the sun began to set, and the sky turned orange. The light reflecting off the sea created a dreamy glow. It felt as if the sandy spit had transformed into a dragon lying across the water, connecting both realms.
Inside Amanohashidate Park, the white sandy beach is covered with lush green pines. (Photo / TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi)
The Maritime Charm of Fukui
Leaving Kyoto, we arrived at the Sanpeki Five Lakes in Fukui Prefecture, also located along Wakasa Bay. This is Fukui’s premier natural attraction. The best way to enjoy the lake is by taking the ropeway up to Mt. Meizan Natural Park, where you can gaze at the lakes on one side and the Sea of Japan on the other. The area is also known as a “romantic destination for couples.” At the mountaintop, there is a fun “love lock” tradition where couples can attach a padlock to a chain after making a wish, or write their wishes on a pottery shard at the nearby Tengu Hall and toss it down the mountain — the farther it flies, the more likely the wish will come true.
Naturally, we had to try the local seafood. Kinpa Toroboko-tei, located at the foot of the mountains near the Sanpeki Five Lakes, serves seafood grilled over charcoal, bringing out the richest and freshest flavors. The charcoal fire blazed on the table as the waitress deftly prepared shrimp, crab, shellfish, and more. With over ten years of experience, she knew exactly when each ingredient was perfectly cooked. The owner said the ideal dining time here is about two hours. Indeed, enjoying the waitress’s skillful cooking, chatting, and taking in the peaceful fishing village scenery made for a truly delightful meal.
Enjoying fresh grilled seafood with views of the fishing village at Kinpa Toroboko-tei. (Photo / TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi)
Heading further north, we reached “Tōjinbō” on the Echizen-Kaga Coast, where nature’s raw power is on full display. This unique landscape was formed by volcanic activity around 1,300 years ago. Massive andesite cliffs, eroded over centuries by powerful waves and snow, stretch for one kilometer, creating a majestic and awe-inspiring sight. Yet, many brave visitors choose to lie on the cliff edge and peer down, watching the surging waves crash against the rocks — sometimes near, sometimes far — getting an up-close feel for the dramatic cliffs of Tōjinbō. Aside from walking along the cliffside trails, taking a sightseeing boat to view the cliffs from the sea offers yet another perspective.
The Revival of Japan’s “Pompeii”
Fukui, blessed with the Sea of Japan, is not only home to world-class natural wonders like the Sanpeki Five Lakes and Tōjinbō, but also boasts cultural and historical assets that cannot be overlooked. It is said that over 400 years ago, Ichijōdani was the third most populous city in Japan, following Kyoto and Osaka. But along the way to this historic site, we only saw layers of lush green mountains, endless fields, a gently flowing stream, and a dozen or so reconstructed houses — not quite what you’d expect from a once-thriving metropolis.
In 1471, the seventh-generation descendant of the Asakura clan moved here. After a century of prosperity passed down through generations, the population grew to over 10,000. But in 1573, Oda Nobunaga, seeking to control the Kansai region, set the city ablaze for three days, reducing the thriving city to ruins. Locals call Ichijōdani “Japan’s Pompeii,” as the man-made inferno that destroyed the city rivals the force of a volcanic eruption.
The fire razed the buildings, but not the stone foundations. The ruins of Ichijōdani are being restored based on these bases, slowly bringing the great city from over 400 years ago back to life. (Photo / TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi)
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