Text by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler
When traveling in Tokyo, one of the most frequently used modes of transport is arguably the JR Yamanote Line. Heading south from Yamanote Line’s Nippori Station and taking the exit for Yanaka Cemetery (Yanaka Boen), you’ll cross a not-too-long footbridge and arrive at Yanaka Ginza (やなせん)—a collective term for the three districts of Yanaka in Taito Ward, Nezu in Bunkyo Ward, and Sendagi. What makes this area special is not only its well-preserved Shitamachi (downtown Tokyo) charm, but also its leisurely, time-warped street atmosphere, which is a world apart from the fast-paced, ever-evolving image of Tokyo we often have. Wandering through Yanaka Ginza’s winding alleys, you feel as though you’ve stepped into one timeless scene after another. Traces of the past are everywhere: temples and shrines, public baths, and senbei (rice cracker) shops—all exuding a strong sense of everyday life—that together create a rare slice of old-Tokyo vibes in this modern metropolis. At first glance, the area may seem incredibly retro, but it’s actually a living, present-day community moving at its own gentle pace. Even passersby here seem unhurried, encouraging visitors to slow down too—no need to rush through every possible sight, for fear of missing out. Instead, you naturally fall into the rhythm of the neighborhood.
The Yanaka Ginza area survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake and World War II air raids, preserving an exceptionally intact old street atmosphere. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
In Japanese media features on Shitamachi districts, Yanaka Ginza has been frequently highlighted. Tracing the origins of this trend, some observers note that as early as 1996, when the magazine “Walking Masters” (Sanpo no Tatsujin) was first launched, there was already a growing interest in exploring Shitamachi areas. Another reason is Japan’s prolonged economic stagnation, during which Shitamachi neighborhoods offered locals the chance to experience something out of the ordinary without traveling far—making these areas increasingly popular.
Indeed, Yanaka Ginza retains much of its old-world charm: shops selling wooden buckets and brooms housed in standalone wooden buildings, quaint streets that suddenly open into lifestyle stores selling traditional Japanese goods—and even maps for exploring the area. There are also leather bag shops restocking their inventory, with staff busily sorting and shelving merchandise. Beyond traditional crafts and daily necessities, many small shops showcase unique concepts, offering everything from leather slippers to custom-made backpacks. For those interested in home goods and lifestyle products, one day is definitely not enough—even without a set plan, you’re bound to stumble upon a charming little shop that captures your heart around every corner.
Yanaka Cemetery—A Walk Through Modern Japanese History
Walking south from JR Nippori Station for about five minutes, you’ll find yourself at the entrance of Yanaka Cemetery. Starting your Yanaka Ginza exploration at a cemetery? Don’t be put off by the word—unlike in some cultures, it’s quite common in Japan to find cemeteries of varying sizes within residential areas. Due to its large scale, Yanaka Cemetery is even considered a popular “attraction” within the Yanaka Ginza area.
This is a green belt that people pass through regularly. Locals walk by in the mornings and evenings on their way to catch trains. In fact, Yanaka Cemetery resembles a vast park. Spanning 10,000 square meters, its abundance of trees, flowers, and seasonal natural scenery makes it a true “urban oasis.”
On weekends, you’ll see solemnly dressed individuals visiting graves, while many more stroll or jog along the shaded paths. In spring, it’s a coveted cherry blossom spot where spots fill up quickly, while summer offers a cool respite filtered through the greenery—or simply a quiet place to sit in the cemetery’s park area. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a cat sunbathing.
[INFO]
Address: 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)3-3821-4456 (Yanaka Cemetery Office)
The concept of life and death differs in Japan, where it's common to find cemeteries of various sizes within residential areas. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Kannonji Tsukiji X@—Layers of the Edo Period
Just a short walk past the tree-lined path of Yanaka Cemetery, you’ll soon reach Kannonji Tsukiji X@. “Tsukiji X@” refers to an earthen wall made of tiles and soil. Although it’s called Kannonji Tsukiji X@, the temple itself no longer exists. To confirm, we walked back and forth along the earthen wall several times—on one side is a shrine, on the other a dental clinic. This long earthen wall is truly the only remaining evidence that the Kannonji Temple once stood here.
Why come to see this wall? This 50-meter-long structure has a history of 200 years. After the temple was destroyed, the only glimpse left of Edo-period Yanaka can be traced along this south-facing mud wall. Gazing at this wall, which requires ongoing, meticulous maintenance, you can still see signs of handiwork. Layer upon layer of history has accumulated here, with every detail the result of human effort—allowing it to stand before us in this form. It’s no wonder it was awarded the “Taito Ward Corner of the Town Award” in 1993 (Heisei 4), and many consider it one of the sites that best represents Yanaka Ginza.
[INFO]
Address: 5-8-28 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
Visiting Kannonji Tsukiji X@ at sunset, as the sky darkens into the ancient-toned wall and crow caws echo, creates an indescribable sense of deep nostalgia. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Fujimizaka—Turn the Corner and See Mt. Fuji
“Can you see Mt. Fuji from within Tokyo?” The answer is yes—but only on days with clear weather and low particulate matter. Located on the edge of the Yanaka Ginza area, Fujimizaka, as the name suggests, is the “slope where you can see Mt. Fuji.”
Following the road next to Kannonji Tsukiji X@—Suwadai-dori—you’ll easily reach Fujimizaka. We happened to visit during Tokyo’s unpredictable rainy season, with heavy gray clouds overhead. While we could only imagine what it would be like to see Mt. Fuji from the slope, we couldn’t help but think, “If it were visible, it would be absolutely captivating!” According to local residents, when Mt. Fuji is visible, the otherwise modest slope becomes crowded with people from near and far, all facing the same direction, eager to catch a glimpse of the iconic mountain over 100 kilometers away. This behavior alone speaks volumes about the Japanese reverence for this sacred symbol of the nation’s spirit.
Aside from good weather conditions, there are also two specific times of year—around January 30th and November 11th—when the setting sun aligns perfectly with Mt. Fuji’s peak as seen from Fujimizaka, creating a breathtaking illusion as if the mountain is radiating brilliant light. This phenomenon is known as “Diamond Fuji.” Visitors to Tokyo in autumn or winter might just catch this rare, limited-time spectacle on a clear day.
[INFO]
Address: 3 Nishinippori, Arakawa City, Tokyo, Japan
Located on the edge of Yanaka Ginza, Fujimizaka is the “slope where you can see Mt. Fuji.” (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Nezu Shrine—Cultural Heritage Beneath Towering Trees
The Chiyoda Line, operated by Tokyo Metro, has two stations—Sendagi and Nezu—that are entirely within the Yanaka Ginza area. It also connects with the JR line at Nippori Station, making it a highly recommended route for getting to Yanaka Ginza. Nestled between the Sendagi and Nezu stations is Nezu Shrine, the most significant landmark on the western side of Yanaka Ginza. Legend says it was established 1,900 years ago by Yamato Takeru. The current main hall was built in 1706 by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the fifth shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate. The main hall, haiden (worship hall), heiden (offering hall), karamon (Chinese-style gate), suibansha (purification hall), and rōmon (tower gate) are all completely preserved, and the shrine is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Walking along Fuyou-dori, as long as you’re heading in the right direction, you’ll easily spot the road sign for the “Nezu Shrine Entrance” (intended for drivers). Follow the lane into the alleyway, and you’ll see a stretch of greenery about 200 meters ahead. As you get closer, you’ll notice towering trees beside the torii gate that marks the shrine area—and there, majestically, stands Nezu Shrine.
The architecture of Nezu Shrine is well worth seeing, as it’s the largest shrine among those in Edo-period Tokyo. The main hall and worship hall are built in the resplendent Momoyama style of the Warring States period, with vermilion structures adorned with stunning gold lacquer. Since last year, the shrine has been undergoing renovation, with the buildings being repainted. All we can do now is peer through the scaffolding enclosing the shrine buildings and look forward to their majestic appearance after the renovations are completed this September.
Even in the afternoon, while the shrine buildings are under repair, we continually encountered local residents walking their dogs in the shrine grounds—people of all ages. Some were even chatting leisurely with neighbors on the stone benches. It all felt so relaxed that one could almost forget they were actually in Tokyo, just minutes by car from the bustling crowds and traffic of Ueno Station.
【info】
Address: 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo City, Tokyo, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)3-3822-0753
Website: www.nedujinja.or.jp
Nezu Shrine, the largest of the Edo-period shrines. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Travel Magazine)
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