Text by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler
...there are still plenty of opportunities to experience sento, allowing you to engage with this unpretentious daily custom and catch a glimpse of the unvarnished life of the common people.
Kyoto also boasts many cafes and restaurants converted from old bathhouses, where you can catch a glimpse of the charm of bygone bathing spots, including the fusion of Japanese and foreign cultures. Lift the noren curtain, whether by soaking in a bath or enjoying a plate of pasta, to bathe in the warmth of the ancient capital and discover a deeper Kyoto experience.
The old-time bathhouses not only washed away the fatigue of the day but also soaked up Kyoto’s sento history, culture, and memories. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Funayama Onsen — Immerse Yourself in the Steamy Sento of Old Nobility
If your first stop on your Kyoto sento journey is “Funayama Onsen,” you might find it hard to believe the “sento is dying” implication hinted at in the movie “Departures.” The lines before opening hours, the familiar exchanges between regulars and staff as they pull out their monthly passes, or the sight of Western travelers with hiking backpacks cautiously entering the changing area all attest to Funayama Onsen’s fame. Though the nobility who once frequented such places are long gone, the joy of “bathing” — an activity that transcends social class — still holds a certain popularity in Kyoto’s backstreets.
Before opening time, a line of bathers had already formed at the entrance. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Built in the Taisho era (1923), Funayama Onsen was once a high-end bathhouse. From the landscaped garden outside to the ornate carvings on the building, it’s not hard to imagine its former glory. In the changing room, the wooden beams overhead feature carvings of beloved Japanese flora (such as pine, cherry, and plum), as well as depictions of land, sea, and air battles from World War II. Compared to Kyoto’s actual history — which was largely spared from the war’s devastation — this serene, war-isolated atmosphere quietly reflects the luxurious lifestyle of the wealthy at the time.
What was once a hot spring inn, Funayama still retains its refined landscaping. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Getting back to the main attraction — “bathing” — Funayama Onsen offers both outdoor and indoor baths. The rotenburo (outdoor bath) is a hinoki (cypress) tub, while indoors, there are electric baths, medicinal baths, and a sauna among other facilities. Though the space isn’t very large, it’s sufficient for visitors to soak in peace. Because there’s no time limit imposed, you can take your time and fully enjoy the soothing comfort of the baths, experiencing the true artistry of a sento visit.
【Info】
Funayama Onsen
Address: 82-1, Minamifunaoka-cho, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, Japan
Phone: +81-(0)75-441-3735
Phone: +81-(0)75-441-3735
Yanagi-yu — The Mysterious Bathhouse in the Community
The mystery of “Yanagi-yu” lies in the fact that, though it’s not a famous bathhouse, it has survived in the community for eighty years. Run by the Nakatani family, it has been passed down through four generations. The current proprietor, Mr. Riki Nakatani, is outgoing and cheerful. Not only did he readily agree to our interview request, but the genuine bond he’s cultivated over the years with the bathhouse regulars may be one reason why Yanagi-yu continues to thrive despite the general decline of community bathhouses.
My first visit to Yanagi-yu was actually a bit embarrassing because it doesn’t have a front yard or entrance hall. As soon as you lift the noren curtain at the entrance, you’re in the changing area where bathers get ready. Of course, the entrance clearly indicates the separate male and female sections, but for someone not used to sento culture, the sudden sight of strangers calmly undressing in front of you can be quite a shock. Given how “direct” Yanagi-yu is as a bathhouse, we arranged another visit with Mr. Nakatani during a time when it wasn’t open to the public, hoping to unveil the mystery of this old bathhouse.
Mosaic tiles with a 46-year history. (Image provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
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