Tokyo Travel Culture: Retro Charm in Yanaka

Indeed, there’s plenty of old-world charm in Yanaka. You’ll find shops selling wooden barrels and brooms housed in standalone wooden buildings, turn a corner in an alley and stumble upon traditional Japanese lifestyle goods stores that also sell Yanaka walking maps, or leather bag shops restocking shelves with busy staff sorting and shelving merchandise. In addition to classic crafts and daily goods, there are many unique small shops driven by creative concepts—some specialize in leather slippers, others offer custom-made backpacks. For travelers interested in home goods and lifestyle items, one day is definitely not enough. Even without prior planning, you’re bound to stumble upon a little shop that captures your heart around every corner.

 

Yanaka Ginza is a vibrant shopping street brimming with the energy of a traditional neighborhood. Just exit from the west entrance of JR Nippori Station and walk a few meters before descending a gentle slope where you’ll see the entrance sign for the “Yanaka Ginza” shopping street—your time for exploration begins.

 

Different from typical Tokyo city shopping streets, this place has no glass facades or big chain stores, yet it invites you to stroll slowly and discover the charm of everyday life built up over the years.

 

Here you’ll find fishmongers, butcher shops, and fruit and vegetable stores frequented by local residents, along with reasonably priced clothing stores, old-school electronics shops, and popular family-run restaurants. Each store sports its own uniquely charming wooden sign. On this roughly 150-meter-long street, there are about 70 shops. If you’re looking to buy something, there are usually multiple shops selling the same type of goods, so it’s a good idea to compare prices before deciding where to shop.

 

On the slope from Nippori Station to here, there’s a staircase known as “Yūyake Dandan” (Sunset Steps), named for the beautiful sunset views you can enjoy from there. Another famous attraction is the cats—sunbathing felines that draw many cat lovers eager to snap a few photos.

 

【info】

Address: Yanaka 3-chome, Bunkyo City, Tokyo, Japan

Phone: +81-(0)3-5246-1151 (Taito City Tourism Division)

Website: www.yanakaginza.com

Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi’s maze of narrow alleys is perfect for cats to wander through, making it a hotspot for cat lovers. It’s only natural that cat-themed accessory shops would pop up. Fans of traditional Japanese aesthetics shouldn’t miss Neko Ie (ねんねこ家), while those who prefer modern styles will love Neco Action near “Yūyake Dandan.”

 

Neco Action is located on the slope between JR Nippori Station and Yanaka Ginza. If you walk west from Nippori Station, you’ll spot it on your right. The storefront is eye-catching, with two innocent-looking black cats lying on the sign, declaring it a cat-themed shop. The cloth draping over the railing at the entrance is also brightly colored with cat illustrations. Step inside, and you’re greeted by a overwhelming array of cat-related goods—from mugs, glasses, tote bags, T-shirts, and stationery to cat treats and cat beds. Cat owners, beware: you might lose all self-control here.

 

【info】

Address: 3-10-5 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa City, Tokyo, Japan

Phone: +81-(0)3-5834-8733

Website: www.necoactionproject.com

Bousingot, a combination bookstore and café named after a French doll, may be one of the most wonderful cafés in Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. Located on the Uniqlo-dori (Unicorn Avenue), this French-named shop reflects owner Mr. Haneda Kengo’s belief: “This is an era where new books quickly disappear. I want people to experience the charm of well-loved old books.” With that vision, he opened “Bousingot.”

 

The store houses about 2,000 used books, ranging from academic subjects like philosophy and history to the cultural history of Parisian life. Unless they are French originals, the books are translated into Japanese—even the drink menu features both Japanese and French. The coffee is excellent and very reasonably priced, and you’re free to browse the shelves of old books. Aside from book lovers, the cozy space becomes especially warm and welcoming in the evening, sometimes even hosting customers who come in with strollers.

 

【info】

Address: 2-33-2 Senju, Bunkyo City, Tokyo, Japan

Phone: +81-(0)3-3823-5501

Website: www.bousingot.com

Ise Tatsu is an old Edo-period workshop that has been producing chiyogami (Japanese decorative paper) since 1864 (the first year of the Bunkyū era). With approximately 1,000 different woodblocks used for printing patterns from the Edo period through the Heisei era, it can be described as an essential database of chiyogami heritage.

 

Originally a wholesale dealer of uchiwa (traditional Japanese fans), Ise Tatsu began selling handmade traditional Japanese paper crafts after the Meiji Restoration. These items quickly gained popularity among Western visitors at the time. Unfortunately, the original store was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake, and it was later relocated to its current address in the Yanaka area.

 

Ise Tatsu remains committed to traditional handcrafting, with each pattern and design meticulously printed using woodblock dyeing techniques that require a high level of skill. The shop continues to be popular with Western visitors, as evidenced by the many foreign guests seen browsing with guidebooks in hand. The store offers a variety of chiyogami products, which change with the seasons — in summer, for example, you’ll find charming goldfish wind chimes that bring a refreshing feel. Many visitors are tempted to buy several as gifts for friends and family. In addition to postcards and framed chiyogami art, the shop also sells large sheets of chiyogami paper, allowing customers to choose their favorite designs for personal use.

 

【Info】

Address: 2-18-9 Yanaka, Bunkyo City, Tokyo, Japan

Phone: +81-(0)3-3823-1453