French pastries in Taipei’s hidden alleys！A lemon cake so sour it makes your eyes water

Text & Photos /Papa Seahorse

If you’re a sweet tooth, in a metropolis like Taipei, the options for desserts have never been lacking: French, Italian, American, Japanese, Taiwanese—sweet flavors from around the world, each with its own charm, all at your fingertips; whether it’s chain stores, boutique shops, home kitchens, or online group buys, all kinds of pastries are just a stone’s throw away.

But I have a soft spot for those unassuming little shops tucked away in alleys, low-key and unpretentious. Maybe it’s because the owners prefer tranquility; maybe they can’t afford the steep rents of busy districts; or perhaps they believe in sharing something good only with those who truly appreciate it... Either way, every time I stumble upon a hidden gem in an unfamiliar Taipei alley, that feeling of striking gold is indescribable.

"The Olive Tree Forest"is the pastry shop I discovered near Shih Chien University in Datong.

Nestled in a three-meter-wide alley lined with old apartment buildings, the shop is tucked between weathered homes, its narrow facade decorated with washed stone and exposed concrete, surrounded by lush greenery. The French sign “La forêt d’oliviers” hanging above and the understated Chinese name below would easily go unnoticed by most, unless you’re particularly observant—or lucky.

Inside, the space is all concrete and wood, with a minimalist style that borders on austere... Were it not for the fresh flowers on the tables and the paintings on the walls, even a concrete-worshipping architecture master like Tadao Ando might find it a bit chilly. The shop has two levels, both equally minimalist, with the basement being spacious and slightly echoey—perfect for gatherings or parties.

My friend and I ordered a Lemon Poppy Seed Magic Cake, a Fig and Walnut Chocolate Cake, and a Lemon Cake. The owner warned us: Unless you have a very high tolerance for sourness, our lemon tart will make your eyes water. Confident in my taste buds, I decided to take the risk.

When the cakes arrived, they were unexpectedly understated. Lacking the fantastical shapes and ornate decorations typical of French pastries, their simple appearance reminded me of the phrase “returning to simplicity.” The serving ware, however, was quite exquisite. Holding up the porcelain plate and inspecting the bottom, I wasn’t surprised to find it was from the Danish brand Royal Copenhagen.

Taking a bite of the golden lemon cake, the sourness hit me instantly, shooting straight from my tongue to my forehead. Truly off the charts in acidity. The owner casually added: We use three to four times more lemons than regular dessert shops—and not a drop of water.

As I cautiously took a second bite of the yellow cake, my friend let out an excited exclamation: The figs make the chocolate flavor even richer. I pushed the aggressively sour lemon cake aside and tried a bite of theirs. The rich chocolate was balanced by the subtly sweet and tangy figs, creating a harmonious blend of sweetness and aroma. The Lemon Poppy Seed Cake looked luxurious, with a soft texture, the citrusy aroma of lemon wafting up, and the sound of poppy seeds bursting in my mouth like a tap dance.

As we finished the last crumbs, I chatted with the owner, Chester. Soft-spoken, Chester used to be a graphic designer at an advertising agency, specializing in corporate logos and packaging. But after falling in love with French pastries, he eventually gave up his 30-year career after much deliberation and dove headfirst into the world of pastry-making.

Perhaps it was natural talent, but this late bloomer, through continuous learning and experimentation, eventually developed his own unique style. The quality of his pastries is on par with five-star hotels. His background in graphic design is also reflected in the shop’s details: the clean, minimalist decor, handmade leather accessories, handwritten chalkboard menus, and seemingly casual but thoughtfully arranged table centerpieces.

The shop occasionally hosts flower-arranging workshops, and the paintings on the walls are collaborations with artists, featuring rotating exhibits every two months.

Soft music fills the quiet space, and conversations naturally lower in volume. Though customers come and go, the place never feels crowded—probably due to the not-so-cheap prices. But with high-quality ingredients, authentic and delicious cakes, and an elegant atmosphere that invites you to linger for hours or chat with friends over tea, the extra cost is well worth it.

If you’re tired of Taipei’s noisy cafes or don’t want to stand in long lines at popular spots, why not visit The Olive Tree Forest? Sip some tea, enjoy a slice of great cake, and let yourself unwind. When you step back out into the bustling streets from the narrow alley, you’ll find yourself missing the greenery by the door, Chester’s handmade pastries, and that window seat under the glass-bottle chandelier.

The Boston Pie is another signature item at The Olive Tree Forest.

The Olive Tree Forest La forêt d’oliviers
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Address: 1F, No. 10, Lane 52, Datong St., Zhongshan District, Taipei City
Phone: (02)25321570
Business Hours: 11:00–19:00, closed Mondays and Tuesdays
Payment: Cash only

Papa Seahorse
A Gemini man born under the air sign, he worked as a senior marketing and PR executive for multinational corporations until the age of 45. After that, he moved to Canada. Amid the spring cherry blossoms, summer sun, autumn foliage, and winter rain and snow, he plays the role of a father to his teenage sons while documenting his experiences in Vancouver.

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