Seven-day National Day Holiday, Enchanted by Zhagana

Outbound Journey: (3 Days)

Day 1. Beijing – Linfen, Shanxi (Entirely on Expressway) 8:15 AM – 8:00 PM, 790 km, Accommodation: Camping at an expressway service area

Route: Beijing G4 – Zhuozhou G5 – Shunping S52 (toward Fuxin) – Jizhong Border S46 – Xinzhou G55 (toward Taiyuan, via Western Taiyuan Ring Road) – G5 (toward Pingyao and Linfen) – Linfen Expressway Service Area

The first day was mainly about covering distance. Originally scheduled to gather at Douzhuang Service Area at 7:00 AM, everyone was late due to traffic, and we didn’t depart until 8:15 AM. Considering the long journey, avoiding stops off the expressway was the most time-efficient option. We had all prepared well and braced for the worst. Sure enough, we couldn’t find accommodation at Linfen Expressway Service Area in Shanxi, so camping became inevitable.

Day 2. Linfen, Shanxi – Longxi, Gansu (Entirely on Expressway), 6:10 AM – 7:30 PM, 854 km, Cumulative Distance 1,644 km, Accommodation: Longxi Hotel (Standard room originally 158 RMB, negotiated down to 138 RMB, later reduced another 18 RMB due to hot water failure, final price 120 RMB)

Route: Linfen G5 – Xi’an Ring Expressway – G30 (toward Baoji and Tianshui) – Exit at Wuxi Xiongyang Town – Turn right at the toll station onto G316 – About 1 km, turn right toward Xiongyang Town (drive about 500 meters across the bridge, visit the Red First Front Army’s Weihe River Crossing Monument, then return the same way and get back on the expressway) – G30 (toward Longxi and Lanzhou) – S14 to Longxi

Day two was still about covering ground. The long stretches of expressway were monotonous and dull. After Xi’an, the road widened to eight lanes, but there were tons of cars. Though not congested, the lack of order, 100 km/h speed limit, and frequent speed cameras slowed us down considerably. Then came continuous tunnels and tunnel clusters (crossing the Qinling Mountains, with all tunnels limited to 60 km/h), which added to both time and fatigue. The longest, the Maiji Mountain Tunnel, exceeded 12 km, making the passage visually oppressive and stifling. On a positive note, the roujiamo and liangpi sold at Wugong Service Area were great value—delicious and hygienic—so we even went back on the return trip. Due to many vehicles heading to the Qianling Tomb, the Wugong Service Area had long queues for gas, whereas the Meixian Service Area afterward was quiet and empty, so we planned to refuel there on the way back. We stayed at a hotel in Longxi County because it was a necessary stop before entering Gannan’s Diebu, where no expressways are available.

Day 3. Longxi, Gansu – Zhagana, Diebu, Gansu, 7:40 AM – 7:50 PM, 294 km, Cumulative Distance 1,938 km, Accommodation: Camping near Zhagana Village

Route: Longxi S209 – (toward Yihuqiao and Minxian) – Turn left at Yihuqiao intersection onto G212 (toward Minxian) – After Minxian, pass Zhuangzi Shang Village, then turn right at the upcoming intersection onto S210 – (pass Lazi Kou Scenic Area) – Turn right at Daigusi Tunnel intersection onto S313 – Diebu County – Turn right at the exit – Zhagana

On the third day, we set out from Longxi toward Zhagana in Diebu, stopping along the way to visit Lazi Kou and the Lalü Temple.

The road from Longxi to Yihuqiao was generally good, with spectacular terraced fields commonly found along the rural mountain paths. In the higher-altitude areas, severely water-scarce regions utilized "Mother Water Cellars" donated by various sectors of society to alleviate water shortages (I had visited a local farm during a previous Gannan road trip, and this time I revisited—the old granny had passed away, but the cellar remained).

After turning onto G212 at Yihuqiao, the national road was actually worse than the provincial one—narrow and crowded with vehicles—mainly due to the recent earthquake in Zhangxian County, where relief and reconstruction efforts were ongoing.

After passing through Minxian and turning onto S313, the road calmed down. Aside from driving school test cars, we rarely encountered other vehicles. Along the way, villagers spread harvested bean vines on the road to be flattened by passing cars. We happily joined in their harvest and bought some fresh fava beans.

Later, we crossed majestic mountains—grand and spectacular. Standing at the highest point of the mountain road, we gazed into the distance at the white clouds filling the sky and the layered peaks, a breathtaking scene reminiscent of the snowy plateau. While taking group photos, we also met some cycling enthusiasts—their joyful smiles and bikes created unforgettable images.

We passed by Lazi Kou and visited the Lazi Kou Red Memorial Site and its museum.

In the afternoon, light rain fell for just a few minutes before stopping. On the way to Diebu, fruit stalls run by Tibetan locals and adorable Tibetan children made us stop—we handed out candy as a small gesture of care.

The Bailong River runs alongside the road to Diebu. The numerous hydropower stations have significantly reduced the river’s flow. As we passed dam after dam, the sight of high gorges and calm lakes appeared frequently—a reflection of how human use of natural resources alters the environment. Only time will tell if the benefits outweigh the costs.

A few kilometers from Diebu County, we spotted a prayer wheel powered by flowing water—an ingenious combination of natural advantage and Tibetan wisdom. Soon after, we saw a resplendent monastery perched on the hillside by the road—this was the renowned Lalü Monastery. With reverence, we turned the prayer wheels. The monastery’s grandeur and serene atmosphere inspired solemnity and sacredness. At that moment, none of us felt like mere passersby—we were devout Tibetans, one with heaven and earth.

Upon entering Diebu County, we rested briefly, shopped for food and local specialties (like Sichuan pepper and garlic) at the farmers' market, and bought a large piece of fresh yak meat. As evening fell, with the original two-day journey still unfinished and the mysterious Zhagana so close, we were both exhausted and excited. To arrive sooner and have more time to explore Zhagana, we skipped the comfort of staying in town and pushed on for the final 28 km.

Once we entered the village road to Zhagana, darkness fell. Apart from the road illuminated by our headlights, everything around was pitch black. After climbing for a while, distant lights twinkled between the mountains—faint but hopeful, bringing strength against the dark and fatigue. As we approached the lights, we finally entered the village. Sparse street lamps and parked cars were my first impression of Zhagana. A sense of bewilderment washed over me—arriving at a long-awaited place that felt both familiar and utterly foreign. Where would we sleep? We checked every Tibetan guesthouse in the village (which were all just farmhouse lodges), but they were fully booked. We met a few travelers who had pitched tents on open ground for 20 RMB each, but with seven cars, finding space in the mountain village was tough. After learning the situation, the idea of staying in a guesthouse faded, and we had to find our own spot to camp. Zhagana is a Tibetan village composed of four natural settlements built into the mountainside. Some have dozens of households, others just a few. Villagers suggested we check the upper villages for lodging or camping spots. As we moved toward the faint lights in the distance, the combination of high altitude, hunger, and cold made the journey feel like a dead end. Suddenly, a fleeting glimpse of open space caught our eye. We stopped to inspect it—confirming it wasn’t farmland and assessing the slope (a gentle one) as safe—and decided to camp there. Once settled, we prepared dinner. The food we brought, plus supplies replenished in Diebu, was plentiful. Even the liquor and wine we brought from Beijing made it to the table. A rich and lively feast unfolded under the starry sky at around 3,800 meters above sea level. The highlight was the fresh yak meat bought in Diebu—the aroma from the pressure cooker dispelled the weariness and confusion of the journey (though at over 3,800 meters, even 40 minutes of pressure-cooked yak meat wasn’t very tender, and the freshly sliced noodles we bought in town turned out sticky and undercooked).

I believe that night will leave an indelible memory in the hearts of everyone who participated—feelings too complex to define, a love that’s hard to let go of yet bittersweet...

Day 4. Zhagana, Diebu, Gansu – Lintan, Gansu, 7:00 AM – 7:45 PM, 161 km, Cumulative Distance 2,099 km, Accommodation: Lintan Hotel (Standard room 168 RMB, includes double breakfast and beef noodles)

Route: Zhagana – Niba Township – Dao’gao Township – Zagulu Township – S306 to Lintan

The fourth day was mainly spent exploring Zhagana, followed by crossing the mountains to reach Lintan.

The morning light in Zhagana is hidden within cooking smoke and thin mist, dreamlike and almost fairy-tale-like. As the sun climbs higher, the magical Zhagana gradually reveals its magnificent presence—Tibetan villages of varying heights blend seamlessly with terraced fields, presenting a serene, peaceful, and simple pastoral scenery. The Tibetan people here still largely follow primitive farming methods and a simple way of life. Crude wooden houses built from local materials are scattered across the mountains, while those Tibetans who are more open-minded and better off have constructed brick-concrete houses. Advertisements for Tibetan homestays (farm stays) clutter the village entrances, creating a sense of temporal disorientation where old and new coexist and alternate.

Surrounded by towering mountains, Zhagana features steep peaks, dense forests and grasslands at lower elevations, and bare, rugged rocks at higher altitudes. The mountain peaks are grotesque with bizarrely shaped boulders, majestic and menacing in appearance, along with numerous wind-eroded cavities. The mountains surrounding Zhagana are awe-inspiring and commanding—a true sacred mountain, a deity mountain that commands reverence.

On the way from Zhagana to Lintan, there are even more sights to see. The vehicle winds its way up the mountain road, and the landscape becomes even more surreal—an indescribable scene and feeling that can only be truly experienced firsthand or imagined through photos.

Near the highest point of the mountain road, dark clouds suddenly gathered, bringing a mix of rain and snow, followed by hail, instantly sending chills through our bodies. Amid the vast, lifeless mountains, a few vehicles crawled slowly forward. Looking back at the path we had taken, the vehicle at the end of the line seemed as small as a toy, as if it could be swallowed by the overwhelming might of the mountains. Here, one truly realizes how weak and insignificant humans are in the face of nature—resisting nature is like throwing eggs at a rock.

At the 3,982-meter-high mountain pass, there is a forestry station. A hospitable Tibetan guard warmly greeted us and offered us hot water. In front of his door sat a sheep skull for sale, priced at 400 yuan.

Beside him, a mountain spring flowed down from the heights. For the forest ranger, this highland spring is a lifeline, but for us, it was an unexpected delight. Everyone hurried to fill up with spring water, and the more diligent among us even took a moment to quickly wash the vehicle before continuing on our journey, feeling satisfied.

After leaving the mountains, we gradually encountered yaks, sheep herds, and Tibetan villages along the way. Tibetan households living by the water dried grains on wooden racks, with streams flowing nearby, teeming with life. Despite the simple living conditions, it felt like a peaceful paradise nestled between mountains and water, untouched by the outside world. Had there been more time, we would have stayed to fully appreciate this beautiful scenery, but with time pressing, we could only take fleeting glances and snap a few photos to satisfy our lingering fondness.

The Lintan Hotel was the best accommodation choice during our journey (the previous days either lacked options or were fully booked). For dinner, we chose the renowned Ningxia restaurant "Ma Dahu," where local specialties like stir-fried lamb and big plate chicken satisfied everyone’s appetites. Only, as it’s a halal restaurant, alcohol wasn’t allowed—but that turned out to be a good thing since we had to drive the next day.

Return trip: (3 days)

Day 5. Gansu Lintan – Shaanxi Meixian (highway service area), 8:35 AM – 9:00 PM, 589 km, cumulative distance 2,688 km, Accommodation: Meixian Service Area Hotel (standard room 120 RMB, no TV)

Route: Gansu Lintan S306 – Min County G212 – Turn right at Yi Huqiao intersection S209 – Longxi County S14 – G30 (toward Xi’an) – Shaanxi Meixian

The fifth day was mainly about the return journey. To save time, the most convenient and nearest route was the top priority.

The free breakfast provided by the Lintan Hotel included a large bowl of beef noodles per person. The attractive Hui (Muslim) girl (waitress) in the dining area wore a simple scarf, wrapping her hair tightly—making her even more charming. Islamic rules prohibit women from showing their hair to outsiders or being photographed, so we had to let it be.

The road from Lintan to Min County was accompanied by the Tao River. The rising morning sun and lingering mist adorned both riverbanks with exceptional beauty. From Min County onward, we retraced the same road as the outbound journey, pausing only briefly at lunchtime to snap a few photos of the terraced fields along the roadside. Passing through Min County, everyone visited the medicinal herb market, known as the “County of Angelica,” a major producer of the herb.

At 3 PM, we got on the highway. Due to the long distance and constant driving, after finally leaving the mountains, villages, and rural roads, there was actually a sense of reluctance to go. But time waits for no one—we had to complete the scheduled route before considering detours to Yan’an and Qiankun Bay for a quick look. Destination: Xi’an, accelerating...

After continuous driving deep into the night, a busy day was drawing to a close. With Xi’an still about 130 km away and days of tension and fatigue taking their toll, rest was essential—for safety’s sake—even if it meant giving up the hoped-for stops in Yan’an and Qiankun Bay...

At the Meixian Service Area, we arranged a hotel, had another simple dinner, and went to bed early in preparation for the next day’s departure.

Day 6. Shaanxi Meixian (highway service area) – Shanxi Yanchuan Qiankun Bay, 7:50 AM – 6:30 PM, 546 km, cumulative distance 3,234 km, Accommodation: Qiankun Bay Chengjia Courtyard (standard room 380 RMB, discounted after negotiation for different rooms)

Route: Shaanxi Meixian G30 (toward Xi’an) – Xi’an Ring Expressway – G65 (toward Yan’an, Baotou) – Yan’an – G210 (toward Yanchuan, Baotou) – Yanchuan – S201 (toward Yichuan) – Turn left at Xinshaoke Village intersection onto an earthen road – Turn left at Tugang Township intersection onto an unpaved road – Qiankun Bay Scenic Area

On the sixth day, while prioritizing the return journey, we also considered the possibility of visiting Yan’an and Qiankun Bay if feasible—and the actual route reflected that. After passing Xi’an and entering G65 (Baotou-Maoming Expressway), the road conditions were poor, with sharp turns, steep slopes, heavy traffic, and frequent speed limits of 80 km/h, making it difficult to drive fast. We arrived in Yan’an past noon.

The once-revolutionary holy land has now taken on a completely new look, losing its former seclusion, simplicity, and pristine charm (I’ve been here twice before). It’s no different from other small or medium-sized cities. The Yan River has been dammed for beautification, improving the urban environment and microclimate, while the Pagoda Hill, in pursuit of profit, now charges 65 RMB for entry. However, farmers hawking doghead jujubes in baskets reminded us we were indeed in northern Shaanxi.

After buying some jujubes, we left Yan’an and headed straight for Yanchuan. The national highway out of the city was crowded and chaotic, only gradually becoming quieter and smoother after a long stretch. Near Yanchuan, roadside signs advertised it as the “Sweet Potato Capital,” followed by elderly farmers selling sweet potatoes. Even in the face of money, the honesty of these northern Shaanxi elders faltered—their asking price was 4 RMB per jin, though we later managed to get them for 2 RMB per jin at the market.

As the sun gradually set and Qiankun Bay was still some distance away, we skipped rest to push on. Approaching Qiankun Bay, the rural roads featured multiple collapses, with many sections under emergency repair. The roadbeds were dug vertically, and single-lane passage was nerve-wracking, requiring extreme caution. We finally arrived at Qiankun Bay before dark. The ticket staff had already left, so we drove straight to the banks of the Yellow River. The already overcast weather grew even dimmer toward evening, limiting visibility. A tugboat on the Yellow River was barely visible, and a speedboat (pleasure boat) zipped across, breaking the water’s surface calm and bringing life to the exhausted travelers and the nearly sleeping mountain ranges on both banks.

In the quiet, subdued evening of the holiday’s final stretch, Qiankun Bay was deserted, with no tourists or vehicles in sight. Our arrival drew the attention of villagers. The village had many farm stays, mostly utilizing idle cave dwellings or cave-style houses, often sharing courtyards or rows of buildings with local families. Meals and lodging were synchronized with the hosts, with prices ranging from 60–100 RMB per person per day, including food and accommodation. We observed and inquired about two farm stays and one backpacker, checking out the evening meals—both food and lodging were basic, with hygiene concerns.

The most eye-catching neon lights in the village belonged to the famous Chengjia Courtyard, a cave-style hotel built by a local farmer who struck it rich and wanted to bring honor to his ancestors. Three stories high, with an imposing gate, the courtyard featured a large locust tree in the center, with a screen wall modeled after the famous Hongtong Locust Tree in Linfen. The ground floor housed the owner’s collection exhibition room, a luxurious banquet hall, and a large dining area. The entire courtyard embodies the essence of northern Shaanxi folk culture, representing the pinnacle of modern northern Shaanxi folk architecture.

The Chengjia Courtyard had a pleasant environment, convenient accommodations, and deep cultural roots. The staff were extremely warm and hospitable, proactively showing us around the various collections and answering guests’ questions in detail. On the night of our stay, coinciding with a friend’s birthday, we celebrated with drinks and a hearty meal. The courtyard manager, Gao Haihong—a well-known local folk artist—was enjoying drinks with friends in the yard. Upon learning of our interest in northern Shaanxi folk culture, he enthusiastically performed a spontaneous show of northern Shaanxi storytelling and folk songs, even singing and dancing with us, leaving yet another unforgettable mark on our memorable trip.

Qiankun Bay, though we didn’t see your most stunning face this time, we spent an unforgettable night. The radiant brilliance of northern Shaanxi folk culture by the banks of the Yellow River outshone the dazzling neon lights of the Chengjia Courtyard, flowing endlessly like the mighty Yellow River itself.

Day 7. Shanxi Yanchuan Qiankun Bay – Beijing, 6:50 AM – 12:00 AM, 971 km, cumulative distance 4,205 km

Route: Shanxi Yanchuan Qiankun Bay – Shanxi Yanchuan G210 (toward Suide, Baotou) – Suide G20 – Jiaocheng G5 (toward Taiyuan, via Taiyuan West Ring) – Xinzhou S46 (toward Wutai Mountain) – Shanxi-Hebei Border S52 (toward Fuping) – Shunping G5 – Zhuozhou G4 – Beijing

The seventh day, the most crucial day of the return journey, we must make it back to Beijing before midnight.

The morning at Qiankun Bay was still shrouded in mist. Everyone stood by the banks of the Yellow River, once again feeling the pulse of the mother river that nurtured the Chinese land, and listening once more to the ceaseless flow of the Yellow River’s waters. Emotions welled up like ripples on the river...

The return trip from Qiankun Bay to Yanchuan followed the same route as the way there. The scenic spots missed during the previous day’s hurried drive reappeared before our eyes. By the small river by the roadside, we closely observed the meandering river patterns of the Yellow River basin. In the morning light, the graceful curves of the river formed a breathtakingly beautiful scene alongside the silhouette of a lovely lady.

The convoy left Qiankun Bay, concluding all the sightseeing activities of the trip, and we drove back to Beijing with all our might. When passing through the Wutai Mountain area, light rain began to fall and it got dark. Traffic on the highway also started to increase, forcing us to slow down. After entering Hebei Province, the rain stopped. Worried about potential traffic jams when entering Beijing, we drove nearly 200 kilometers at a time before taking short breaks, and prepared for the worst. At 7:46 p.m., when we crossed the Hebei border, toll cards (paper slips) started being issued again. But when we exited Hebei and reached the toll station at Beijing’s southern gate, everything was smooth — no cards were collected or issued. Our spirits lifted instantly, and we felt reinvigorated. At 11:18 p.m., we smoothly passed through Dujiakan (the last toll station), bidding farewell to the toll-free expressway.

The broad Chang’an Avenue, the brightly lit streets, the quiet night, the empty square. Walking along the magnificent ten-mile-long boulevard, I couldn’t help but feel from the bottom of my heart that Beijing is truly worthy of being the pride of my heart.

Written afterward: This 7-day trip covered too long a distance, with most of the time spent on driving. The intense and exhausting schedule is not conducive to safety, so it is not recommended to follow this itinerary. If traveling the same route, it is better to plan for at least 10 days.

    Due to time constraints, only a simple travel route plan and introduction are provided. From the moment we exited the highway on the way there until we entered the highway on the way back, the journey was filled with scenery along the way. We tried to stick to highways as much as possible for the round trip to save time. National roads, provincial roads, county roads, and rural roads were chosen purely for sightseeing or as necessary routes. The road conditions were not an issue. Accommodation and meals were taken as they came. Shopping was convenient along the way, allowing for supplies to be replenished at any time.

    The regions visited feature a unique Tibetan cultural atmosphere, with an emphasis on appreciating natural scenery. Local specialties include yak meat and Sichuan peppercorns, and Min County is also known for producing angelica. For detailed information on the scenic areas, you can search online for “Diebu tourism” or “Diebu Zhagana,” which will provide plenty of detailed introductions. Further elaboration is omitted here.

Reference weather conditions in Zhagana during the National Day period:

Highest temperature 16°C–20°C  Lowest temperature 3°C–5°C

Precautions:

1. Bring your vehicle’s registration certificate, insurance policy, driver’s license, ID card, cash, bank cards, and any other documents that may entitle you to travel discounts.

3. Essential communication tools (mobile phone, walkie-talkie).

4. Ensure your vehicle is in good condition. Check the spare tire and tire pressure, inspect the windshield wipers, fill up windshield washer fluid, and bring essential onboard tools (such as for changing a tire) as well as a spare car key.

5. Travel maps, photography and videography equipment, trekking poles, flashlights, cold and rain protection clothing and gear, various batteries, chargers, memory cards, and other necessary accessories.

6. Carry enough food and water for one day per person, and bring your own utensils (promote environmental protection and avoid single-use items). Personal toiletries and necessary medications.

7. Camping (or sleeping in the vehicle) gear. While accommodation is arranged in counties or above throughout the trip, camping may be necessary (if no lodging is available). To ensure hygiene, it is recommended to bring your own sheets, blankets, etc.

8. Refueling: Given that refueling may be inconvenient in remote areas, refill in a timely manner during the trip. To ensure fuel quality, choose PetroChina or Sinopec main stations in counties or above whenever possible.

9. Other items needed for the vehicle or personally (including unused small gifts, poverty alleviation and aid items, food, stationery, etc.).