Good Day to Kansai Cruise the Scenic Coastal Highway

By Li Zhishan    Photos by Li Wenqin

The Seto Inland Sea, a pearl-filled ocean dotted with islands, and Japan’s coastline bursting with plump fish and fresh crab bid farewell to the gloomy winter. Ride the sea breeze along Kansai’s scenic coastal roads, drive through a corridor of ancient and modern culinary history, and embrace early spring’s delightful food season with a joyful heart.

In the season when the sea breeze still carries a chill, we visit the early spring Kansai coastline. Rarely avoiding Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe on our travels, this time we drive deep into elegant ancient towns and temples, as well as tranquil rural port towns, to see the most unpretentious and gentle side of Kansai beyond the bustling crowds. From the sunlit Awaji Island, Japan’s largest Lake Biwa, to the raging Sea of Japan, the ocean and sky accompany us along the way. We cruise the coastline with out-of-season summer tunes, savor simple yet incredibly delicious seafood, and soak in scenic coastal hot springs—all making us want to slow down and embrace this radiant blue treasure of the sea.

The Sun-Kissed Glassy Sea

Bidding farewell to the Western-style foreign residences on the hills and the dazzling Kobe Harborland, the scenery outside the car window is overtaken by the azure-blue sea, with a white ocean-spanning suspension bridge coming into view. The Akashi Kaikyō Bridge, which connects Honshu and Shikoku, stands majestically under the clear sky. Following the winding approach, we ascend layer by layer, cross the deep and beautiful Akashi Strait, and arrive at the sun-drenched Awaji Island.

Awaji Island, where flowers bloom everywhere in spring, is also known as the “Island of Flowers.” With a high rate of sunny days, a warm and pleasant climate, and numerous seaside resort hotels, the air is filled with a leisurely holiday vibe. The Seto Inland Sea as seen from Awaji Island is always a strikingly brilliant sapphire blue, with sunlight sprinkling a layer of gold dust on the horizon, and gentle waves sparkling like dazzling diamond dust. Driving straight from the coastal highway to Tokushima on Shikoku, the end of the Naruto Bridge offers a spectacular vortex phenomenon due to tidal differences. Walk along the semi-open walkway for a bird’s-eye view, or take a sightseeing boat out to chase the vortex, experiencing the thrilling power of the swirling tides amid the thunderous roar.

Back on Awaji Island, take a short rest at the multi-purpose mall Awaji Lookout & Vortex near the island’s scenic spots. Nearby stalls waft the aroma of onions, making your mouth water just from the smell. Blessed with abundant sunshine, Awaji Island is rich in onions and lemons. Local burger shops feature thick, juicy fried onions as the star, with tender Awaji beef taking a backseat, paired with specially made spicy mayonnaise—the crispy texture has made it a longtime favorite, often ranking first in burger popularity polls. Besides burgers, the mall sells various onion products, including an onion vending machine. Try on a free onion wig, take a big bite of an onion sandwich, and meld with the pungent, flavorful Awaji onions.

Near the mall is the Awaji Puppet Theater, dedicated to performances of Awaji Ningyō Jōruri. Alongside kabuki and nō, Awaji Ningyō Jōruri is an important traditional Japanese performing art. Giant puppets are manipulated by three black-clad puppeteers, performing classic plays such as the Genpei War. Once supported by the Tokushima Domain lords, Awaji Ningyō Jōruri flourished, with up to 40 theaters on the island at its peak. The puppeteers delicately express the puppets’ emotions, bringing them vividly to life—seemingly possessed with souls that can grieve, cry, or even get drunk and rowdy. Even visitors who don’t understand Japanese can grasp the thrilling world of the plays through the lifelike movements.