An artsy café renovated from a vintage traditional Chinese medicine shop tells a century-old story

Text & photos by /Mika

In recent years, many eateries and cafés have opened in Yuanli, attracting an increasing number of tourists. The town’s old buildings and streets have gradually come back to life. With young people returning to start businesses here, they not only bring new energy but also help preserve the area's historic culture and architecture.

A prime example of this renewal is the meteor-themed coffee and arts space, created from a century-old traditional Chinese medicine shop. Ji Sheng Pharmacy has been a longstanding local fixture, and to keep this old building alive, the next generation transformed it into a café and arts venue, offering local artists an excellent space for performances, exhibitions, lectures, and meetings.

Moreover, Yuanli now has a youth hostel, providing simple, comfortable, and rustic accommodation for backpackers and round-the-island travelers. Next time you visit Yuanli, don’t rush off — stay the night and enjoy a cup of coffee in one of those timeless old-street cafés, savoring the daily life of this quaint town.

This Meteor Café is also a hipster spot that values environmental protection and cares for the Earth. They encourage customers to bring their own takeaway cups and offer an 80% discount on drinks.

In old buildings, nothing matches Japanese-style wooden sliding doors. But as someone used to being rough, I always have to remind myself to be gentle — these doors are delicate and can’t handle my force.

The café’s indoor area is small, accommodating just over a dozen people. The blend of old and new creates an atmosphere where you can see the original features of the old pharmacy, yet everything feels fresh, comfortable, and refined.

There aren’t many seats, and the space is compact, but it’s warm and cozy. The owner is cheerful and talkative — chatting with her about all things Yuanli, even patrons at the next table join in. It’s like a real-life group chat. I love their energy and enthusiasm, their voices filled with love for this land. Their hearty laughter lifts everyone’s spirits.

This is another dining area. I love how the tables and chairs are styled in a mix-and-match fashion — the owner really has a free-spirited approach.

The café preserves the old pharmacy’s century-old medicine cabinets — genuine antiques from a hundred years ago. I wonder if these cabinets still carry the faint scent of traditional herbs when opened? After all, that aroma was once very much alive here.

Some of the cabinets still have traditional Chinese medicine names written on them in brushstroke calligraphy — such precious handwriting silently telling its own history.

Traces of the old pharmacy’s past are visible everywhere — this is a café that still carries the fragrance of coffee and memories of medicine.

Simple decorations, shelves filled with various books, though I didn’t look closely at the titles.

Artistic framed paintings.

Stepping into the café, there’s a courtyard. Passing through it leads you to the arts and cultural space.

This is the arts and culture space provided for artists to exhibit and perform — classic and vintage, yet brimming with literary and artistic flair.

More old pharmacy cabinets are stored here.

These antique medicine cabinets are truly rare to see these days. Most modern folks would only catch a glimpse of them in movies or period dramas.

These two chairs seem to freeze memories of the past right here. I remember how my grandmother loved sitting in bamboo-woven chairs like these in the yard, cooling off and dozing off. Though she’s no longer with us, not even the chairs remain.

Here, you’ll find an introduction to the past and present of Meteor Café. But the long journey of time that’s unfolded within these old walls? That’s something no single piece of paper could ever fully capture. What you want to hear, what you want to feel — you’ll have to come here and let the owners tell you all about it.

The café offers single-origin coffee, hot and iced brews, as well as desserts, and on weekends, you can book a seat for their menu-free cuisine.

Honest, warm coffee without too much fancy decoration — it actually tastes even better that way.

Today’s menu: Italian-style cold noodles
The daily menu changes. The owner laughs heartily and says, “We eat what we feel like, so our guests can just eat what we’re having!” Isn’t that just so laid-back? I love it. It feels like dropping by Meteor Café to chat with friends, checking out the day’s kitchen specials, and scoring a home-cooked meal — so familiar and welcoming.

Meteor Café — with its warm, down-to-earth, and nostalgic vibe, surrounded by the coffee-scented old alleyways. This is what everyday life in Yuanli is all about. I’ve decided that next time I’m free, I’ll come by on a weekend, try their menu-free dishes, and be surprised by the eclectic flavors the hosts whip up.

Who knew Yuanli would get a youth hostel, tucked away in a small lane just off the old street!!

This oneN-square Hostel Anytime.innYouth hostels mostly cater to island-hopping travelers and international backpackers. I’ve always thought the reason why Yuanli has few homestays or hotels is the lack of tourist attractions—it’s hard to persuade travelers to stay overnight, so they usually opt for Dajia or Sanyi instead. Most visitors to Yuanli are just passing through for a day trip or half-day tour.

So, it takes real guts for Ren Yi, the owner of Anyi. Hostel, to open a youth hostel here. It’s truly admirable. With sheer determination, and to encourage more travelers to stay and explore Yuanli in depth, he even went out of his way to create a map introducing local delicacies and must-visit spots.

It has also attracted friends who share the same philosophy, coming to Yuanli through work-exchange stays. This painting was created by one of the work-exchange travelers.

A youth hostel is just that—a simple place to stay, with beds for just NT$500 a night. The advantage of staying at a backpacker hostel or guesthouse is the chance to meet people from all over, and you might even end up sharing a room with someone.

When I traveled in Europe, Japan, and Thailand, I’d occasionally stay in such guesthouses—partly to save money, and partly to make friends. So, traveling really is something best done within a certain time in life; it’s still very much a young person’s game. These days, as I get older… I gradually find I’d rather spend a bit more for a bit of privacy, you know?

These backpacker hostels all have shared bathrooms, but at least this one has three, so you don’t have to worry about long waits. Once, I stayed at a backpacker hostel in Japan and it was tough—there was only one bathroom in the old Japanese-style building, making showering quite a mental challenge.

If you’re planning an island-wide trip and pass through Yuanli, welcome to stay a night at N-square Hostel Anyi. Hostel. It’s within walking distance to Meteor Coffee, where you can slowly savor the essence of Yuanli in this timeless café.

Meteor Coffee  
Address: No. 133, Tianxia Road, Yuanli Township, Miaoli County 358 (next to Yuanfangzhai)
Phone: 03-7869133
Business Hours:
Monday–Friday: By reservation only (private bookings)
Saturday/Sunday: 9:00 AM–6:30 PM
Business hours may vary slightly each month depending on the season.
During summer vacation, Saturday hours are 1:00 PM–8:30 PM; Sunday hours depend on events—if there's an event it’s open, otherwise it’s closed.
Facebook Page:https://www.facebook.com/yuanli.starcafe/

N-square Hostel Anyi. Hostel.  
Address: No. 9, Lane 7, Chenggong Road, Yuanli Township, Miaoli County 358
Phone: 0961-565 939
Facebook Page:https://www.facebook.com/nsquarehostel/

Traveling is about returning to your roots with deeper understanding.
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