Text by MOOK Scenic Spots / Mofei Photos by Charlie & Mark
The heavy rain showed no signs of stopping—in fact, it grew even heavier. Checking the news, they realized the typhoon’s impact meant the northeastern part wouldn’t see clear weather for days. Family and friends called one after another to check on them, advising against pushing through on the Su-Hua Highway. Driving in the rain, poor visibility and falling rocks could easily turn deadly—absolutely not something to take lightly. After being persuaded by loved ones, Charlie and Mark decided to compromise and take the train to Yilan.
They encountered kind-hearted uncles out fishing who lent them a hand in the pouring rain.
PART10Hualien City - Yilan City - Keelung’s Nuannuan District
The rain outside grew heavier and heavier. The two, drenched from head to toe, boarded a local train. Onboard, exhaustion and the air conditioning left them teetering on the edge of hypothermia. In Yilan, following someone’s suggestion, they had a steaming bowl of lamb rib noodles. Completely worn out, the pair decided to visit a laundromat before their friend got off work, washing and drying all their soaked, dirty clothes. After freshening up, their mood completely changed—and they even snapped some selfies at the shop.
Before leaving Yilan, a university friend treated them to a hearty meal to gear up for the challenges ahead.
That evening, meeting up with friends again, they were taken out for hot mutton hot pot to warm up. They also spent the night at a friend’s place, chatting about their journey, sharing thoughts and emotions, exchanging ideas about the future. The next morning, they walked from Yilan to Dali—yet another day spent completely soaked. Once back at the hostel, they passed out until evening. Waking up, they grabbed a quick bite, called their parents, and talked at length about their experiences and plans for the future.
Walking alone on the deserted Caoling Historic Trail nearly drove them crazy.
The next morning, they set out from Dali to hike the Caoling Historic Trail toward Keelung. That day, the rain was wilder than ever—the entire trail accompanied only by the sound of rain. Mountain streams washed over their feet as they trudged along. It took sheer willpower to push through to Fulong, where they barely regained energy with two Fulong boxed meals. By the time they reached Bitou Cape, the wind and rain had become too fierce for normal outdoor travel. Suddenly, two uncles pulled over and asked if they needed a ride. Physically and mentally exhausted, they accepted, hopping in to head first to Mark’s home in Keelung—finishing the final leg of the journey the next day.
They washed all the clothes drenched across eastern Taiwan and gave them a high-temperature sterilization cycle.
Q&A
If you had to hike around the country again, would you still choose to start?
Charlie C
Nope—but I’d consider doing the trip a different way.
Mark M
You’ve got to do it once in your life, but once is enough.
The Caoling Historic Trail in heavy rain is seriously tough.
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